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Java - everyone loves it and it works well everywhere. Maybe.
Re: RepRap Mendel wont respond to slicers. - 6 years ago
normally Arduino Firmware runs with 250000baudby Dancer - Printing
Re: Scared about my Anet a8 order - 6 years ago
Quotenewbob ... Yes, by all means, you have to use forced air cooling if you stuff it in any type of enclosure. And if you do this, you are delivering fresh Oxygen to the fire and spreading it out of the Box again. Never heard anything more stupid like your Suggestion. Sorry. Buy reliable parts, do a clean setup, install a smoke detector, place a fire extinguisher where you can grab it. If youby Dancer - General
Re: flsun hotend not heating up - 6 years ago
suddenly fluctuating tempreature, after printing perfectly for long time and no changes to the System does look like broken wires to the heater cartridge or the thermistor. I had this twice myself. - both times broken wires on the heater cartridge. - Just replace, can be found in packs of 5 for just a few bucks.by Dancer - Reprappers
Re: Hictop Prusa i3 Auto-Home Issue - 6 years ago
Does not Matter which Position. You cold even leave it where it is now. I prefer a Position where I have easy access to the whole printbed. @Buzzing sound from Display: sorry I don't know - never had buzzing at this pointby Dancer - General
Re: Hictop Prusa i3 Auto-Home Issue - 6 years ago
I assume you are using Marlin as Firmware. Going to half the x and/or y axis after homing usually comes from this part of code in configuration.h (see below) --> You would have to Change Line 935/936 to end movement on another Position. Where is the Buzzing type Alarm comming from? - is it the Buzzer at the Display, or maybe one of the stepper Motors? - Maybe the one on Y-Axis? --> If yes,by Dancer - General
Re: RAMPS started smoking,,, - 7 years ago
Quotesjassal my prusa i3 start smoking while printing, it is less than one month old, I printed only two items, during 2nd printing, heating failed,next day, i started it all over again, then smelled burning plastic, can't figure out, kept printing, then smoke start coming out from power/ on-off switch box, after opening it, the red wire coming from bed to power were melted. Please help ,I'm newby Dancer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: 3D Printer problem - 7 years ago
If RAMPS has really drawn to much current, there ist 99.99% that the voltage Regulator of the Ardruino is broken, and killed the MEGA2560 - You would have to buy a new one.by Dancer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Sending gcode files to SD card - 7 years ago
smartLCD is not recognized as a disk-drive on your PC, so direct upload will never ever work. Take your SD Card out of SmartLCD, put it in a Card Reader of your Choice - connected to your PC, and use any File-Explorer (e.g.: Windows Explorer). Nothing easier than that.by Dancer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Number of filament settting - 7 years ago
Take a newer Version of Slic3r - really many Bugfixes! Slic3rby Dancer - Slic3r
Re: Cylinder inside a cylinder - 7 years ago
We might be able to help you, if you provide us your stl-file :-)by Dancer - Slic3r
Re: Gap between perimeter 1 and 2 - 7 years ago
Change to Prusa-Fork of Slic3r - they solved many Problems with Infill & Thin Walls, and have many new cool Features: : Newest Prusa-Slic3r "1.2.9 - stable" was never stable, nor was it usable error free.by Dancer - Slic3r
Re: Best firmware for RAMPS 1.4 to manually control printer - 7 years ago
Some weeks ago I had an Idea I have to rethink and maybe build some day: Fact is: Using the USB-Connection of the Arduino you can send G-Codes. So what if: -) I take a raspberry pi (or similar) -) connect it to the Aruino USB -) Connect 3 Rotary encoders to the raspberry -) Do a small Software on the raspberry which does send Movement G-Codes to the Arduino as I am Turning the Rotary Encodersby Dancer - Reprappers
Re: Gap between outer shell and inner portion - 7 years ago
I always - on any Printer - use this extremely simple and self adjusting Belt tensionerby Dancer - Reprappers
Re: Opinions about the H3D K200 Delta? - 7 years ago
Do not assume that 300mm will be possible on the whole printbed! - only just in the middle spot! The more outside you get, the lower the Maximum height will be - else carriages would be crashing into endstops!by Dancer - Delta Machines
Re: Is Delta 3D Printer He3D K200 worth buying ? - 7 years ago
Do not assume to be up and running within at least some month of try and error, if you've never done a Delta like this before. EDIT: I needed nearly one year - with much Information on this Forum.by Dancer - Delta Machines
Re: Marlin Frimware Issue - 7 years ago
I'm using Marlin RC6 on a Delta since about 18 month, and it makes really beautiful prints. Better than my prusa-clone I do not Need Autocalibration. Just built the Printer as perfect as I could. I had no luck with RC7 & RC8 - were really worse. RCBugFix was better when I last tested it in December 2016. - But still not as good as RC6. If I think of this thread today evening, I'll upload myby Dancer - Delta Machines
Re: Filament not extruding - 7 years ago
Ok - I think you should start with a 10mm calibration cube - uses much less Filament & is much faster to print. If you manage to print one cube successfully, add a second one to get travel & retraction dialed in. Just some things to check Prior to printing: -) are all screws fastened? -) are all belts fastened? -) is your Frame rigid? -) What is your print Speed? - For first tests to stby Dancer - Printing
Re: Prusa i3 intermittent extrusion - 7 years ago
Are you printing PLA? Looks to me like heat creeping up the hotend, thus blocking the Filament path. if preasure gets high enough blocking is pressed throu - just for next blocking to take place. How Long are your Retracts? - to Long retracts cause the same Problem. can you give us a Picture of your complete hotend (the "printhead")? - would be easier to help.by Dancer - Printing
Re: Filament not extruding - 7 years ago
your towers will automatically get looking better, if you fight the blobs and stringing. fighting thees blobs and stringing is a thing of -) retraction lenght -) retraction Speed -) retraction acceleration -) travel Speed -) travel Speed should go up -) Keep retraction length short 2mm max (because you have a direct drive) - the less the better! - but not Zero. -) do not accelerate to fast - eby Dancer - Printing
Re: DIY Prusa i3 stopped rising on Z axis - 7 years ago
I had a similar Problem once. Error was solidified Oil & Dirt on the Leadscrew. When going up, friction & load was to high to reach the required height. Going down was less Problem, because load is helping. As the Stepper got hot it started loosing steps. So maybe do a good cleaning of your leadscrews and relubricate it with e.g. sewing-machine-oil (or any other not solidifying oil)by Dancer - Printing
Re: Can't import/print OpenJSCAD output for SmartRapCore (hope this is the right board) - 7 years ago
Good to hear! Happy printing!by Dancer - Reprappers
Re: Marlin Frimware Issue - 7 years ago
Well... My Delta with Marlin has deltasegments set to 120 - don't see any issue. - But depends on if you connect a LCD, and wchich one (2004 or graphical) do not set xyjerk for too low - tried this once, had stuttering. @ 200steps/mm. are you using 0,9° Steppers? - else I would assume it to high for normal Delta.by Dancer - Delta Machines
Re: Can't import/print OpenJSCAD output for SmartRapCore (hope this is the right board) - 7 years ago
OK So what slicer are you using? - Most of the Slicers let you split the plate and only print part of itby Dancer - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i2 mendal printer with RAMP board - 7 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD ..... You need the ramps board powered up to measure the vref. I do this with a metal screwdriver and a steady hand. Put the negative of your voltmeter to the psu DC negative, put the screwdriver on the potentiometer, then the positive lead of your voltmeter to the screwdriver. Then turn it. The actual current depends on the driver and the controller board. But if you can aim foby Dancer - General
Re: Prusa i2 mendal printer with RAMP board - 7 years ago
I do not use the 5th Position myself, so I do not know if you have to swap the Extruder to 5th and 2nd Z to 4th Position - might depend on the Firmware too. You have to intall a stepper Driver on 5th Position. What Firmware are you using? - You have to tell it, you are using dual Z-Axis. Have you ever done any Firmware-Config? Was the Printer up and running before? Do you have the Firmware fileby Dancer - General
Re: Prusa i2 mendal printer with RAMP board - 7 years ago
1. what is the exact type of the Steppers you are using? 2. what current are they rated? 3. what type of stepper driver do you use? eg. A4988, DRV8825,... 4. Why do you want to connect them together? - Do you have dual Extrusion? - If not you could just use the 5th Stepper Driver Position & configure Firmware accordingly. 5. If you want toconnect together, you have to take double the current!by Dancer - General
Re: Extreme shift in layers - 7 years ago
Do you have a cooling fan on the stepper drivers? - if not - get one :-)by Dancer - Printing
Re: Filament not extruding - 7 years ago
Are you printing PLA? If yes, how big was this object to be printed? If it is very small, this is a very common problem - you might have to -) go down slightly with hotend-temperature and/or -) print more parts at the same time to let them cool down sufficiently and/or -) need a layer cooling fanby Dancer - Printing
Re: weird issue with ramps 1.4 and lcd 2004, need help! - 7 years ago
check your endstop wiring! - had this once when swapping from another board to RAMPS - sequence of the Pins was different, shorting out +5V to GNDby Dancer - Reprappers
Re: Filament not extruding - 7 years ago
Sorry hedgehog flow down is not the solution. wider bottom layers could be heatbed to hot - have a look at the "pictorial print issue identifier" thread at this Forum.by Dancer - Printing