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(RepRap Användargrupp)
Re: Glass Type - Heated Beds - 12 years ago
I'm using a 3 mm thick mirror cut to size. Works really well for PLA at 65 degrees (iirc) and ABS at 125 (coated with diluted PVA glue for ABS, no coating needed for PLA). Never had any cracking issues, even with some rough head crashes. There is a hypothesis about the mirror reflecting heat back up from the part itself, but not so sure if there is a real difference compared to plain glass. It'sby anwe79 - General
Re: Hotend temperature jumps? - 12 years ago
Your last post pretty much confirms suspicion that the problem is due to interference. Route your sensor cables away from motor/heater cables, that should fix the problem. /Andreasby anwe79 - General
Re: How to get non-porous print and minimize drooping perimeters - 12 years ago
What version of slic3r are you using? I know there have been some problems with top infill not being solid a while back, that's been solved afaik. The bridging layer on the top wall should have been ok though, so something else is wrong too. Make sure your extrusion feed rate is calibrated, it looks like it's low. That could explain the failed overhangs, if the extrusion isn't wide enough, it's nby anwe79 - General
Re: PLA, CA Glue & Acetone? - 12 years ago
Never tried ca glue myself, but short contact with acetone shouldn't affect PLA in any major way. I did a small experiment where i soaked a small piece of PLA in acetone for a couple of weeks. The piece came out almost intact, but I think the consistency changed slightly. It felt a bit more rubbery and slightly bloated, as if it had absorbed small amounts of acetone. May have been due to minor bby anwe79 - General
Re: Heated Warping - 12 years ago
Very dilute white wood glue (pva) may also be worth a try. It doesn't fume much while drying (abs fumes are far worse) and can be reused at least for a few prints. I haven't tried to wrap my printer for better heat retention yet (i think the combination would rock), but the glue has got me from completely useless prints to good enough (most of the time). /Andreasby anwe79 - General
Re: The Remoter - 12 years ago
I really like this idea. Assuming this could be made to have continous rotation and no backlash, I'm thinking it could eliminate one of the Z-motors on a traditional mendel-style reprap. I know the original Mendel had belt drive for the secondary, but I think it was abandoned due to backlash? (Maybe GT2 belts would be a simpler/cheaper fix for this) Having synchronized motion would make calibratby anwe79 - Mechanics
Re: Copper jhead nozzle - 12 years ago
I don't know if this is of interest to anyone, but it's nearly on topic, so here goes: I modded my brass J-head to take an aluminium inset (m4 nut rivet iircc). Mainly because the replacement heater resistors I got hold of were way too small. I then drilled the threaded part out to fit the resistor (I got lucky and got a very snug fit). After this mod I believe my heating response has got way betby anwe79 - General
Re: Producing precision machines from imprecise beginnings - 12 years ago
Anyone intersted in this sort of thing will most likely enjoy "Build your own metal working shop from scrap" by Dave Gingery. I haven't got a copy myself yet (I'm not sure why), but it's on the shopping list. As soon as I get enough dough to by a house, the backyard will be put to good use . I think backyard foundry sites actually led me onto 3D printers from the start. (No affiliation BTW, itby anwe79 - General
Re: Best 3D printer control board to upgrade to! - 12 years ago
Personally, I find upgrading to another 8-bit solution too limiting. The arm boards are where the future is. It's too late to get in on the Smoothieboard kickstarter, but I don't think regular production runs are far off. I suppose the firmware may not be as polished as Marlin et al. yet (haven't tried one myself), but I feel the 8-bit platforms lack future potential. Also my pet peeves are Pololby anwe79 - General
Re: Hot end nightmare - 12 years ago
It sounds like you're on the right track. I would suspect overextrusion causes the top of your layers to get bumps that the hot end catches on the next layer, which dislodges the print. It could also be cooling or adhesion issues. Insufficient cooling with PLA will cause previous layers to curl upwards. Insufficient adheson will cause ABS to warp upwards. But judging by the issue you describe wiby anwe79 - General
Re: Servo control and automatic bed levelling - 12 years ago
Nice idea, I like it, bed levelling is a major hassle. I see one issue with this approach, and that is Y axis weight. If you could make the servos part of a snap-on, removable jig, that issue would be solved. /Andreasby anwe79 - General
Re: Nozzle unclogging/unjamming temperature? - 12 years ago
Well just to report back, I couldn't find any temperature to work with the plug-type unclogging. I know I've done it before with great success, but I think I must have left a tiny gap in the J-head when i assembled it last time. The plug sticks in the gap and when I pull on the filament, it snaps just after the ridge formed in the gap. I can see slight ridging if I up the temperature a bit more mby anwe79 - General
Re: Extruder drive gear slop :-( - 12 years ago
I've fixed extruder gear slop before with epoxy. But 25 degrees sounds like a lot of slop, I think I only had about 5 degrees. Sounds like the print precision wasn't top notch... /Andreasby anwe79 - General
Re: Nozzle unclogging/unjamming temperature? - 12 years ago
Many thanks, I'll try those temps when I get back from work today. I'm using a J-head IVB, Faberdashery PLA, and Form Futura ABS. I'll report back with results, I suppose the brand of plastic is a big factor in the equation, but those temps will probably help a lot. /Andreasby anwe79 - General
Nozzle unclogging/unjamming temperature? - 12 years ago
Hi, I've just switched to ABS for printing a new x-carriage + extruder. During testing I get curly extrusion, which in my experience is a symptom of debris in the nozzle, and a future jam waiting to happen. I've cleaned out my nozzle using the "plug" technique before and it has worked very well. The idea is to start at normal extrusion temperature, then lower to let the plastic form a partiallyby anwe79 - General
Re: Hugh Lyman won the Desktop Factory Competition - 13 years ago
Just an idea; how about a multiple hole die? It may get quite complicated on the spooling end, but could multiply throughput without having to go for very fast extrusion speeds. I suppose the complexity would not be worth it for someone making filament for personal needs, but for a small time producer or a group of people (hackspace) it may be an interesting path forward. /Andreasby anwe79 - General
Re: [Request for advice] Selecting first reprap kit to build - 13 years ago
A MendelMax could also be an option. It's got a big build platform and a helpful and active user community. I've got a 1.0, the current "stable" version is 1.5+, and the 2.0 is in beta testing. You've got at least four different suppliers of parts in the US (for the 1.5 at least); Maker's Toolworks, Trinity Labs, Lulzbot and Techpaladin. I'm not sure about the availability of complete kits rightby anwe79 - Reprappers
Re: Y-axis belt drift - 13 years ago
You could try a self-centering crowned pulley as well. It needs to be printed with precision to get the crown even, and if you have a serious underlying problem it might not help that much. I've tried it on my X-axis, and even though my print wasn't perfect, the belt has yet to slip off with no washers (fingers crossed). /Andreasby anwe79 - Reprappers
Re: Svenska användare - 13 years ago
Hej hej, Tänkte bara presentera mig. Andreas heter jag, jag har en så gott som färdigbyggd MendelMax och bor i Göteborg. Har en gammal tråd på Svenska Elektronikforumet om bygget, men den är i starkt behov av komplettering. Motivationen och orken tröt en lång tid efter sista posten, men sen i julas har jag kommit igång igen på allvar. Idag ska jag fixa min överhettade/skeva extruder, sen tror jby anwe79 - Sweden, Gothenburg RepRap User Group
Re: Reprapworld PLA Filament - 13 years ago
I've only tried reprapworld translucent blue (i forget the name) so far, and have been having problems. It's a bit oval/squashed, and I can't seem to get consistent behaviour. It may be me overtweaking too many things at a time though, I'm quite new at this... I think I have some Faberdashery PLA waiting for me at the post office tonight, I'll report back with any findings. That stuff is supposedby anwe79 - General
Re: New to 3d printing, want to print chocolate! - 13 years ago
+1 on that. 3D printing takes a lot of time, and for a healthy business you probably want to get as many chooclate objects done in the least time possible. Doing it with moulds will be way quicker. You could print a positive pattern to make many negative moulds out of food safe material. The drawback would be that the moulding/casting process will limit you slightly in the types of shapes/geometby anwe79 - Reprappers
Re: Mendelmax Larger Aluminum Extrusions 30mm x 30mm - 13 years ago
R900 sounds a bit rich... Is that through your local supplier or online? It's probably worth checking with Motedis, KJN or Misumi if they ship to South Africa. Shipping may still be very expensive though. Personally I'd stick with 20x20 extrusions even at those high costs. Getting plastic parts that fits 30x30 is probably a major headache (do the models even exist?). There are enough other headaby anwe79 - General
Re: Raspberry Pi RepRap and python - 13 years ago
Quick update on USB/IP and Pronterface/RAMPS: I would not reccomend this option to someone who is new at Linux and/or computer tweaking. It seems to be slightly immature/buggy software at the moment. However, with some patience and luck/skill it can be made to work acceptably. One thing to note is that the first connection after boot always seems to fail with a Pronterface freeze as a consequeby anwe79 - Developers
Re: Raspberry Pi RepRap and python - 13 years ago
I've confirmed that USB/IP does indeed work, I'm now using a Raspberry Pi as a wiresless USB plug (sort of). For anyone interested, follow the insructions in secretagent's post. I'm using Raspbian, and it works the same way as for the older Debian image. Just make sure you update the kernel + firmware first, they need to match the stuff you download. A few things to note (these are mentioned iby anwe79 - Developers
Re: Raspberry Pi RepRap and python - 13 years ago
A quick update on the USB/IP mentioned earlier in the thread. It seems some people got it working on a Raspberry Pi. I'll give it a shot later tonight, doesn't seem too complicated, although that forum thread is quite confusing... (The purpose of this is to run the host software on a more powerful standalone computer, with the Pi acting as a networked USB port) /Andreasby anwe79 - Developers
Re: uploading firmware and flashing lights - 13 years ago
PS, also check that you have the correct arduino board selected in the "tools" menu.by anwe79 - General
Re: uploading firmware and flashing lights - 13 years ago
The test code should move the motor(s) without the 11A rail connected, but you need 12V connected to the 5A rail. Are your motors prewired? Have you checked that they are wired correctly? Most reprap motors have four wires in two pairs, one pair per coil. It's fairly easy to find which wires are paired with an ohmmeter. If you have the correct pairs, it could be that one of the pairs polarity isby anwe79 - General
Re: Incorrect GCode From All Programs! - 13 years ago
Just a thought, but 210 °C sounds very hot for PLA (although every colour/type of filament is different). Could be that your thermistor reading is not accurate and you are infact extruding at a lower temp, but the white bubbles may be evidence of overheating the PLA. To find the lowest extrusion temperature, try to hand feed the filament while increasing the temperature in 5 °C steps. Start fromby anwe79 - General
Re: Opto vs Mech - 13 years ago
Anyone using hall effect sensors? I'm considering using one for Z. For X and Y I'll make do with the mechanical switches I have, but for Z I think it should be a good option. I guess unipolar or omnipolar should work (I'm a hall noob).by anwe79 - General
Re: Unable to Communicate - 14 years ago
I've never used ReplicatorG, but i believe Marlin's baud rate is set to 250000 as default. Change your Replicator G settings to match that and it will probably work. Not sure exactly where to change it though, but google and you'll probably find it quickly. Also, be sure to look through and check your settings in configuration.h in Marlin. A lot of those defaults may or may not be right for youby anwe79 - Controllers