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If you're looking for jewellery-quality prints, then a fused-filament printer is not the way to go. They have nowhere near the surface finish you require. You're better off going for a CNC machine to cut the parts from metal, or a stereolithography machine if you want plastic.
If you want to do a 'partial build', then I suggest having a look at the Hadron Ord Bot. In my opinion, it's the hands-d
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
Hi Kwando,
Welcome to the world of 3D printing. It's a lot of fun. There's a lot of printers on the market these days, but they all have varying degrees of complexity to build and run. If you want to build a printer yourself, then a Reprap Prusa Mendel is the best way to go on most fronts. It has the best support and availability by a long way. If you want to buy a pre-built printer, then a Maker
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
Hi Alex,
'Snoman' is Jeremy, one of the people from Lybina, an Australian plastics manufacturer.
Have a look at lybina.com, and give them a call.
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
My filament arrived by courier yesterday afternoon. Pulling it out of the bag, it looked great. Solid yellow colour.
A quick check with the micrometer showed that Lybina's manufacturing was as good as always. First sample was 3.00mm on the long axis, 2.90mm on the short. A check on the other side of the roll had 2.95mm and 2.90mm.
For my first print, I thought that I would print out one of
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
I just chatted with Jeremy on the phone a little while ago. Amazingly, he said that I was the first person to call up asking for it.
What? How can that be? A local supplier is giving out free samples of a product that we have been begging for, and there's no takers? I'd been kicking myself for not visiting the forums for a couple of days. I'd thought that I would have missed out for sure.
So d
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
Hi Pat,
Which of your motors are 'too large'? If it's the extruder motor, then you probably just need to change the X-carriage, so you can mount the motor offset to the belt.
As you can see from the picture below, when using Greg's extruder, you usually need to mount the motor 180 degrees different from the Wade's extruder. Then, having a base which has mounts at another 30 degrees will give you
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Sydney RUG
The Part Per Month Project
Background
Back when Reprap was young, it was a principle of the project that all printers would print out and give away one set of parts, to help the project grow. This idea has largely fallen into disuse over the last couple of years, but the idea is a good one. However, printing out a full set of parts is a fairly daunting task, and requires a fair amount of printi
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
Going for a MendelMax build? I'm thinking of doing one myself.
SES Linear Bearings ship their 20x20 Bosch Profile extrusions from Melbourne. www.linearbearings.com.au.
Their price is $12.43 plus GST. per metre. Plus $1.50 + GST per cut. T-slot nuts are $1.46 + GST each.
Do you know how much Misumi charge to ship from Singapore? Their prices are a lot better.
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
It's interesting, looking at the MB Replicator, that they've chosen to use a cantilevered print-bed. The cantilever material would need to be super-stiff to resist sagging, particularly under the weight of a heavy print.
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
My question is: how will you keep the bed flat?
With the bed being lifted in the middle, it seems like there is opportunity for the bed to tilt either way unless the bushings on the smooth rods are extremely tight, allowing no slop. With the micron-tolerances that we are attempting to achieve with these printers, a tilting bed will rapidly throw a print out.
I've thought that the 'box with gan
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
Hi Schulz,
I had the exact same problem as you with my printer. You can go with the modified Wade's, but a better choice is to go with Greg's Hinged Accessible Extruder. I ended up buying mine from Greg.
Since I was in the same boat as you, I feel your pain. I'll happily print one up for you for free over the weekend. It probably won't be as good quality as one printed by Greg, but I'll guarante
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
Julian, you're right in that mild steel has the same (or less) deflection for a given load than stainless. I must have had my brain switched off in the post above.
My recommendation for stainless comes primarily from the fact that it seems that the manufacturing tolerances on stainless are higher - it's much easier to find (in my experience) perfectly straight stainless rods than mild steel.
I
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
Hi Russ,
It sounds like your design is fairly similar to the one that Nophead is developing. Have a look at his blog.
I'd second Auzze's comment wrt rod size. With a build platform that size, you should really look at 12mm rods. The deflection in the centre is going to be quite large with 8mm rods, even with quite a light extruder.
For your printer, it's preferable to use stainless steel (any g
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
Hi Russ,
Great to have you on board.
Please tell us more about the custom design that you're building. Have you got any pictures / drawings of the printer you're trying to build.
As for linear bearings, it's pretty tough to go past eBay. When I bought mine, it was only $20 for 12, including postage.
The smooth rods can be got from a bunch of suppliers, many of which are listed on the Australi
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
Do you find that filament spool to be useful? I printed the exact same one out myself, but I found that there was too much friction (too many tight turns) for the extruder motor to pull the filament off the spool.
I think I need to re-jig it so that the spool is turned around 90 degrees, and feeding straight down into the extruder.
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
Hi tfpp,
If you're looking to build your own printer, I suggest have a really good read of the wiki first, particularly the Prusa pages. Then decide if you want to buy a pre-built machine, buy a precompiled kit, or just buy all the individual parts (I think most people here pick option 3 - it's generally the cheapest.)
To get parts have a look at:
http://reprap.org/wiki/RUG/Australia/Suppliers
h
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
Hi Guys,
Since this forum's been a bit quiet lately, I thought I'd ask, what have you printed out lately?
I've done some snowflake christmas-tree ornaments, and a screwable jewellery box.
"Pics or it didn't happen!"
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
Hi Serych,
If you have a look through your 'alterations' folder inside of the Skeinforge folder, you should see some examples in there to give you a hand. I don't know enough to help you with the extruder, but with your 'end.gcode' file, you can put in:
G91 ; Make coordinates relative
G92 E0 ; reset Extruder counter
G1 E-2 F900 ; Retract extuder 2mm at 900mm/min
G1 Z2 F400 ; Move up
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Shibboleth
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Skeinforge
I've had a few prints stuff up on me, the cause of which is Extra Shells. This can be see in the photo below. These can be fixed by turning the extra shells off, but I was wondering, what's the purpose of Extra Shells? What benefit are they meant to provide? It is extra strength? If so, surely a few more percentage points of infill would do a better job.
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Shibboleth
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Skeinforge
Thanks for the suggestion Nelson.
I'm not using a J-nozzle at the moment, but I've got a spare one tucked away in case my main nozzle breaks. I might give it a try, as I'm not having much luck with settings-fiddling.
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Shibboleth
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Skeinforge
I've been having one persistent problem with my prints that I can't quite seem to be able to change at all, either for the better or the worse. I always get oozing at the 'lift up' corner - the corner of the print where the extruder pauses for a second to lift up the z-axis.
I can only see two settings in SFact that would seem to affect this blobbing. - Oozerate (mm/min) and Extruder Retraction
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Shibboleth
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Skeinforge
It might be worthwhile putting the STL file into Netfabb's cloud service - http://cloud.netfabb.com/. They have a free STL cleanup service which might remove some of the problems and help generate a better plot.
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Shibboleth
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Australia - for sale
I'd suggest making a 'double-sized' model - 1:500. At 50x80x25, you can double that and still fit on your Prusa. You won't have to worry as much about the fine detail as well.
Please post heaps of photos!
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Shibboleth
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Australia - for sale
Have you had a chance to go through http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration yet? It's quite useful, and list out a good, procedural process for you to go through.
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Shibboleth
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General
I had this same issue. The Arcol hot-end won't attach to the standard Wade's. You need to find a modified Wade's base, or use Greg Frost's accessible design, which is Arcol-compatible.
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Shibboleth
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
> I got these ones
>
> -Shaft-Free-Shipping-/220886360288?pt=LH_DefaultDo
> main_0&hash=item336dda60e0
>
> I have been using mine for months no problems.
Strange. That's the same pulleys that I have. There must be something different with the belt you're using.
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
Auzze Wrote:
> I brought Alum pullies
> from ebay which help improve my printer s 110%
> these pullies can be got from ebay for $20.00 and
> you should have them in a week.
Auzze,
Which pulleys did you get? The pulleys I got from ebay were a total disaster. The teeth on the pulleys were too thin, causing the belt to slide backwards and forwards, generating a massive backlash issue.
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Shibboleth
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
I'm using 60 mm/sec feed rate, which I know is fairly high for a new printer.
I think the wiggles are caused by 'stickiness' of the bushings. Hopefully, they'll go away as the printer wears in, or I'll just change to linear bearings.
I must admit, I haven't heard of the Marlin firmware before, I'll have a look into it.
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Shibboleth
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Skeinforge
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