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QuoteMrDoctorDIV
I used to have an acceleration of 1000m/s2, but have since raised to 4000m/s2 and a bit slower speed, vastly improving my quality.
Ah, but the question here is - was it lowering the speed or raising the acceleration that made the improvement??
The jump from 1000m/s2 to 4000m/s2 will make the overall print speed more 'linear' (for lack of a better term) which I could see helping
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Switchblade88
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General
Hi Master_Wither, welcome to the forums!
It might be worth flicking through the original designs on the wiki to see how RepRaps have evolved. The original 'Darwin' had a moving X/Y carriage above a lowering Z-bed. That gave way to the Mendel with the X-Z carriage above the Y-axis bed, same with the Prusa i3 (what I've got). Axial movement is a negligible effect on quality of prints, compared to
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Switchblade88
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General
QuoteTraumflug
Can we assume you mean 500 mm/s2, 9000 mm/s2 and 100 mm/s?
Indeed, just edited to correct.
I don't know about other firmwares, but Marlin's default is excessively high for any RepRap design; unfortunately I didn't realise that until further researching and traced it down as the cause of my missed steps. Upon fixing that, I could significantly push my speeds higher with less ris
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Switchblade88
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General
Hey all,
I'm just curious as to the communities' general consensus on 'reasonable' speeds are for an 'average' RepRap. I know, I know, there are so many variables in play here - I'll narrow them down to my scenario, and tell me how yours compares!
- Prusa i3, Alu frame, direct drive extruder
- Printing PLA onto PVA juiced glass, non-heated
- Acceleration at 500 m/s2 (much smoother now it's lowe
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Switchblade88
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General
It's pretty hard!
I'm going to grab the Prusa i3 frame kit from 3DJunction which comes with all the metal vitamins. If I tried to source all these parts separately (even just the bolts, rods and washers etc in bulk, and the frame) then I think I'd still be worse off, even without the smooth rod set.
In saying that, I contacted Interlloy and they gave me a rough cost of $10 for 2kg ($5 per kg?)
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Switchblade88
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Australia, Melbourne RUG
I've always wondered, since seeing someone's post about using sodium silicate to patch their hotend, whether it would be usable as a structural component to directly mount the brass into. You can get an exhaust patch kit (like this one ) for $10aus and it appears to have enough strength to handle strenuous loads without issue.
Any feedback on this - or previous experiments along these lines?
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Switchblade88
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General
G'day all,
I'm trying to chase up local sources of 8mm smooth rod here in Aus... as a first-time pending builder I'm not confident as to what I'm looking for or the grade to price ratio of rods.
Can someone help with details and suppliers? I know clarky on here has the full set for about $60 but I was happy with cheap rod at $30 or less to get my toe in the water first...
Thanks guys!
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Switchblade88
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Australia, Melbourne RUG