Quotesamp20 Yes I know about the red text on the start page. It's still takes a little while to load and visit each of those pages, then mark everything as read (for those topics I don't visit). The issues with this are: 1. You can't mark forums to be ignored (could work if the Ignore module for Phorum I've mentioned a number of times was installed). Note that they're ignored by default, as lonby Cefiar - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Look for the following in your Configuration.h in your Marlin firmware: #define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE Just comment that out (put two /'s at the start) like so: //#define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE Save, upload to the board, and you should be sorted.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
6 wires usually means that you have 2 coils, each one with a centre tap (effectively making 4 coils, with each pair hooked in series). You need to ignore the centre tap wires (don't connect them to anything, and do not connect them to each other). I would use a resistance meter (multimeter on resistance scale) to figure out which coil is which, and which are the outer pins of the coils. This paby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Wizzard22: You need to pull the signals out of the Pololu connectors, same as with RAMPS. That said, note that the logic will be 3.3V, not 5V. Either your drivers will need to be able to accept 3.3V logic, or you will need to convert it to 5V logic with an external board.by Cefiar - Controllers
I would personally look at a different FET, such as the IRLB8743/IRLR8743 or the FDP8870. These FETs have a much lower RDS(on) value, and should not heat up anywhere near as much as the STP55NF06L's. You may even find one of these at a place with cheap shipping.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
What sort of PSU do you have, and how are you connecting it up? This could be one of multiple issues, so knowing the PSU type and how it's connected up with help determine what the problem might be. Notes: You mention you have a smart controller. Which brand/model is it, because there are a few designs available. Where did you buy your RAMPS/Arduino Mega/etc from? PS: RAMPS just refers to thby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
It will work, and in some ways it makes a bit more sense. D8 can handle a lot of current (up to 11A), whereas D9 and D10 are both lower current (they share the power with the motors on a 5A circuit). Since out of 2 fans and the hot end, the hot end draws the most current, it makes sense to put it on the output that can supply the most current.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
If it's a brick-style PSU, you don't. For many systems (where it's driving a strip of LEDs, downlights, etc) this doesn't matter, so the suppliers don't really tend to give a rats arse, especially if that is what the PSU is being labelled as being used for. If you got this as part of a kit for a 3D printer, I would definitely be letting the supplier know and asking why they buy PSU's wired likeby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
No, you just didn't give the right command. M106 P0 S255 <- Turns on the FIRST fan M106 P1 S255 <- Turns on the SECOND fan Notes: If you leave out the P command, P0 is ASSUMED. If you leave out the S command, S255 is ASSUMED. To turn off fans, you should use S0, so: M106 P0 S0 <- Turns off the FIRST fan M106 P1 S0 <- Turns off the SECOND fanby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
You can buy USB cables that isolate the device completely from the PC, but they're not likely to be cheap. Can you test the following: Disconnect your printer PSU from the wall and your laptop. Leave it for 5 minutes, then using a multimeter on the resistance scale, look for a low resistance (eg: 0-5 ohms) between the AC Earth pin to the +12 and Gnd pins on the DC side of the PSU. My guess is tby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Also of note: There are a bunch of Mega clones out there that don't connect the pin RAMPS supplies voltage to the Arduino on to the actual input of the regulator on the Arduino Mega.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
I hope he means 460 Watts. Big difference there.by Cefiar - Controllers
With opto end stops: One side of the opto is the emitter, and the other side is the sensor. Make sure the emitter side is toward the floor or away from any light source. Any other light source can trigger optos if it contains the right light frequencies that the sensor is sensitive to. Many of the sensors are sensitive to Infrared, which means sunlight can set it off of the sensor gets exposedby Cefiar - Controllers
LM7805 is a voltage regulator, not a MOSFET. This totally explains your problem.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Since you say you built this yourself, are you sure you put the MOSFETs in the correct way? If you get them back to front, you would most likely get this constant on issue.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
ahmed: To use the drivers you bought, you need to connect the Step/Dir/Enable and Ground lines from the Pololu headers (the sockets the A4988's go into) to the Step/Dir/Enable/Ground lines on your driver. You could probably just solder some wires to some header pins and plug them in. Note that you want to keep the leads to your driver short, to avoid interference. You'll need to provide power diby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Actually on the printer in question I don't change the board at all. What I do a lot is move the machine and the PSU is a separate item. While I can unplug it from the PSUend , I don't like carrying the printer with a cable dangling from it, so I remove it from the board end as well. PS: I was - on average - moving it twice to three times a month for about 1.5 yrs straight - taking it to my locby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
cat.farmer: You might not disconnect them often, but I do. As for a redesign, that was sort of what RAMPS-FD was all about, except going to a Due. There are a lot of new electronics ideas out there at the moment, so I suspect the whole landscape will change in the coming months. FWIW: On the boards I made, I used 16A ones. Never had an issue.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
They used to use the same FET for all outputs with 1.0. Should be no problems doing that. I think apart from cost, he changed it so he could fit 2 small FETs in place of a larger single FET, and add a third FAN output. 1.0 had 5 FETS (2 extruder, 1 HB, 2 FAN), whereas 1.1+ had 6. (2 extruder, 1HB, 3 FAN). The smaller FETs are quite suitable for driving something as low power as a fan.by Cefiar - Controllers
Polyfuses are designed only to work with a voltage that doesn't vary by too much, and the ones on RAMPS are only designed to work with DC. If the voltage fluctuates a lot (eg: your supply produces a varying voltage due to being right at the current limit), the PTC fuses will heat up more than normal, and will trip earlier. The Ardunio regulator should work fine down to about 7V, so as long as tby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
My guess is that you'd need to cut a track or two to get it to run 24V without issue. The Mk2b and Mk3 have three terminals. It's effectively 2 resistors with one end on each joined to the other (Point B below). You run them either in series (24V - Point A to Point C) or parallel (12V - Point A+Point C to Point . Text pic for reference: +––––+ +––––+ +–+ R1 +––+––+ R2 +–+ | +––––+ |by Cefiar - Controllers
I see no reason why not. The board is designed for mounting on top of an Arduino by itself though, so you'll have to mount it separately and run wires to it from the Pololu sockets on the RAMPS. You will also need to supply it with a logic supply (+5V and Ground), apart from just the step/dir/enable lines. Notes: Each time you double microstepping, you need to send twice as many step/dir pulsesby Cefiar - Controllers
Smilem: I would guess the main reason is that it's USD $40 for one controller board. As for the chip on the board, the TMC260 is about USD 8.70 from Digikey, and won't fit in the usual standard Pololu form-factor. That said, if this DICE form factor takes off, it should be possible to put it on one of those easily enough.by Cefiar - Controllers
Thanks for your replies. It's good to see that, unlike a lot of other projects that post their Kickstarters on here, you're interacting with the community (at least, so far).by Cefiar - Controllers
Have you loaded firmware on to the Arduino Mega? It may be that existing code on the Mega is switching that pin on. You also may have a damaged Mega, or there is a short on your RAMPS board in that part of the circuit for controlling the MOSFET.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Q's: 1. Since most of the communication to the stepper drivers is done via SPI, is there any clock syncronisation used to ensure all the steppers step at the same time, or are you simply relying on the SPI commands to be followed as soon as they're received? 2. Is there any reason that you didn't go 3.3V (using say an Arduino Due) rather than sticking with 5V (and the Arduino Mega)? 3. Given mby Cefiar - Controllers
Mallgan: I don't think bobc would mind too much (it is OHW after all), but only he can say for sure. I've not heard from him lately though, which is slightly worrying. Last commit to his github was on the 27th of Feb, which makes it a month now. As for the work I did on it (minimal compared to bobc) I'm happy to let other people use it (otherwise why would I be helping bobc). As for the layoutby Cefiar - Controllers
What firmware are you using? Most firmware has an option to turn off the extruder if the hot end gets too hot. A lot of people turn this off at the start when testing as it also affects things like not having a thermistor or thermocouple connected at all. Check the signal on Arduino pin D10 to see if it is constantly on when this happens. If it is not, then you most likely have a bad MOSFET. Qby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Tramflug: If you want anything resembling accurate temp out of a thermistor, then yes. Difference between heated bed on and off (current flowing through the ground) can, in some instances, alter the temp reading by 10 (or more) degrees with 1k bias and a standard 100k thermistor if the current flow is high enough (based on a report from the RAMPS-FD thread). That can lead to quite a bit of overshby Cefiar - Controllers