I just wanted to post about my experiences with the Bulldog extruder. I ordered it through their initial Indiegogo campaign, so I would have a good extruder for my new printer. Not sure if I got a lemon or what, but the extruder I received is a piece of junk. It doesn't have the strength to push ABS or PLA filament through even a basic .5mm hot end even at reduced speed, let alone the tighter nozby JBernal - Delta Machines
You can fix that in firmware too. I had all of the exact problems you had. Fixed them with setting it to com3, and changing to board type 62 in configuration.h Now if only I could get the *&^%$ thing to run on my Raspberry Pi.by JBernal - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I recently updated Sprinter firmware to the latest version. Using Sanguinololu v1.3, ATMega644p. The old firmware that came on the board was Sprinter but I don't know which version. It had no problems keeping the hot end temperature right on the line. Maybe 1-2 degrees of slack when extruding heavily but never more than that. It was an old version before there was acceleration/deceleration, big dby JBernal - Firmware - mainstream and related support
2mm @ 30 definitely works best for me for PLA, seems also to work nicely for ABS. I get goopy edges with anything less.by JBernal - Reprappers
Retraction gets rid of the stringies.by JBernal - Reprappers
Simba Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > OMG Integer error, that has to be it > > More evidence for relative position. Not sure what you mean.by JBernal - Reprappers
Try setting retraction at 1 or 2mm, 30mm/sec speed. That will clean up a lot of the blops and strings on the edges.by JBernal - Reprappers
One thing to check is that your slicer is set to 0 on "minimum bed temp" otherwise it will automatically kill the bed temp when you start the print. And by default it's always set at 5, which is lame. If your power supply isn't up to the task of heating the PCB, which mine wasn't, it might also get too taxed when you are printing, and do an auto-shutoff until the load reduces.by JBernal - Reprappers
It shouldn't require that much force to go through. I use a .35mm nozzle and it doesn't take much force to push plastic through when it's clean. I had similar problems when I had a clog in my nozzle, took me a while to get it cleared. I used a wire which I pulled from a wire brush to clean out the nozzle while it was hot. I don't know what the specific cause was, but eventually I got it out of thby JBernal - Reprappers
I tried turning on temperature smoothing in Sprinter as suggested, and the mystery dropping of extruder temperature stopped. I was noticing sudden jumps in the sensed temperature, which I figured triggered the whole thing to shut off. Now I have a slow sine wave pattern showing on the extruder, but it's still showing 10 degrees of difference either high or low. Anyone here know a way to make it nby JBernal - Reprappers
The power supplies are 120 watts. They have no problem running the extruder and the old 4-resistor heated bed (could get it to 70 degrees but no higher) but they can't run the PCB. I have my eye on a 12v 20-amp project power supply, has 22-amp surge. Hopefully it will do the trick.by JBernal - Controllers
It's a Sanguino board, rev 1.3a I also thought about running the ground through the board and the + to the bed, actually tried just connecting the bed directly to one power supply, but something about the way the load is handled makes either power supply auto-shutoff when attached directly, but not when run through the board. It's weird. I suppose it's time I go out and get a heavy-duty power supby JBernal - Controllers
I just installed a new PCB heated bed on my printer but it seems that my main power supply (laptop type) can only run either the extruder or the bed, not both at the same time. I have a second power supply which has the same specs, so I am wondering if it would be safe to wire them in parallel so as to distribute the load among the two of them, or would this create a fireworks display?by JBernal - Controllers
Only thing I can think of is to set an audible alarm somehow to warn you when the temp starts to drop. Unless there is some way to set a script to constantly bump the temperature setting where you want to keep it.by JBernal - Reprappers
I have the same problem, only mine does it sometimes at the beginning of a job and sometimes 3 hours into it. Only happens with jobs which contain large trays of multiple objects. Never had it happen with single objects even if they take many hours to print. Using Pronterface and Slic3r 0.9.8 on Mac.by JBernal - Reprappers
Furthermore, it's doing weird things on other large-plate files such as shut down the temperature of the hot end and print bed at the beginning of the print, which it does not do on other smaller print jobs. Not sure what's going on here. I'd post the files here but they are too big. Here's the tray which prints as if it's chopped off the bottom 5mm: here's the one that prints right but killsby JBernal - Printing
The thing is, according to the processed g-code, the bottom 5mm does not exist-- the file starts printing at that chopped-off bottom point. So even if I home it again and print it again, it still prints a chopped-off job. I am thinking it is a problem with Slic3r.by JBernal - Printing
This problem seems only to happen with certain files, so I don't know what the problem is. Here's what happens: I load a standard file, say, the full-tray Prusa file for reprap parts. It goes through Slic3r. Seems OK, but when I go to look at the first print layer it seems to be up a few mm from where it should start. It is as if the Z of the file was below the print bed's Z level. However I checby JBernal - Printing
Speaking of the wires, which ones would I switch?by JBernal - Firmware - mainstream and related support
" Why don't you just reverse the x axis connector? " I want to reserve that as a final resort. I'd also like to get familiar with how the firmware works and how it can be modified and upgraded.by JBernal - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I've got the firmware compiling in arduino v22 and v23, but both versions crash when I go to upload it.by JBernal - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Error compiling: In file included from Marlin.h:23, from cardreader.cpp:1: pins.h:765:3: error: #error Oops! Make sure you have 'Arduino Mega' selected from the 'Tools -> Boards' menu.by JBernal - Firmware - mainstream and related support
What part am I doing wrong here? I have Arduino 023 installed, have the proper hardware folders set up because I can see my Sanguino in the list, got it connecting no problem, but I cannot find anything usable in the Marlin directory to bring into the compiler. Everything is greyed out.by JBernal - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Also, to top it off, makefile is not working either. Syntax error after syntax error. Not sure what else I can do to fix this. None of the Arduino software versions can cope. I also cannot compile Marlin as a replacement option. Same issues.by JBernal - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Arduino 0023 will not open the Sprinter files.by JBernal - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I have recently built a Longboat Prusa from the reprap kit store, and it is working. It is running Sprinter on a Sanguino board. I have it connecting and printing on both Mac OSX and WIndows XP. The problem I have is that the X-axis output is inverted. I can bypass this by mirroring the STL before export, which prints correctly, but I'd prefer to fix it in firmware so I don't have to constantly dby JBernal - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Something I also wonder about, especially regarding the fiberglass-chop-impregnated plastic filament... Just what happens, mechanically, between layers of plastic when they are laid down? Does the plastic actually heat enough between the new layer and old layer to form the equivalent of a chemical bond/actual fusion, or is it just a really tight mechanical bond? If one were to use chop-impregnateby JBernal - Wire and Thread Embedded Extrusion
One thing you might try looking for is spools of fiberglass thread for chop-guns. Fairly cheap stuff but it might be a bit too heavy for desktop application. I have been mulling over fiberglass injection or composite filaments in my head for a while now; my long-term goal is to build a garage-size printer that can print an entire monocoque boat hull. I've considered the possibility of a powder-stby JBernal - Wire and Thread Embedded Extrusion
I am curious just how strong the bond is between the layers of plastic; is it a chemical bond, or a mechanical bond, or a mixture of both? Or is it for all intents and purposes, if done right, the same exact thing as a fully molded piece of plastic? I am wondering, if one were to build a printer with a large print area (say, furniture-sized) and used it to print, say, a chair, would the bond betwby JBernal - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Thanks for the info. PLA I am guessing will just become part of the chemical process as pretty much all of it relates to stripping and reordering of fatty acid chains. If it can't deal with the temperatures then it's out anyways.by JBernal - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)