Yeah the problem is that I am severely limited in the values of SMD resistors I have on hand. I have been building different values by stacking resistors in parallel or building little series circuit pyramids on the pads :-D I've ordered one of those packs of "2500 SMD resistors" but it is coming from China so I'll probably have this solved by then. I'll just keep mucking with the values until Iby CapnBry - Delta Machines
You're right David, the shapes on the scope probably do look different than you're used to, good eye! I was using the probe at 1X and also I had a 10k resistor on R1 so it definitely would be be as sharp as you're used to seeing. I've already reduced R1 down to 1K and was still getting saturation. It works great on all sorts of different surfaces but boy the aluminum underneath must really reflecby CapnBry - Delta Machines
Hi Dave, I have been experimenting with this concept on my cartesian printer and wondering if you had any insight. My printer is a CoreXY (C-Bot) with a MIC-6 aluminum bed, with a sheet of PEI stuck to it (dull side up) with a solid sheet of 468MP transfer tape. My results were highly repeatable measurement of probe distance at the same point, but I was getting vastly different values depending oby CapnBry - Delta Machines
The pinheaders get right at the signals going to the stepper drivers. You can use them to either use external stepper drivers for giant motors, or use them to chain two drivers together (like to operate two Z motors from one signal).by CapnBry - Controllers
Hi David, this is a pretty clever little sensor you've created! I have equivalent parts on hand and was looking to play around with this on my perpetually-under-construction corexy bot. Would it be too much to ask for you to share the spacing of your IR emitters? Just eyeballing it, it looks like D2 is 0.05" lower and 0.15" to the right of D1? If you don't want this to be public knowledge I can dby CapnBry - For Sale
Quotewrangler Back on topic Is there anyone who solved the temperature problem on the 1.0 version. Does the solution from flyway97 work? I didn't replace the switching regulator, but the fact that on my board it still did it when powered through 5V USB power indicated to me that there other issues in the board layout itself so there's no fix.by CapnBry - Controllers
Quotetarjeik Did you ever get around to testing if powering the board via USB solves the problem CapnBry? If not I'll wait for the announced 1.1 board update. Yeah same story. No matter where the power comes from (USB or 12V input) the temperature bounces around by a few degrees at the higher temps (220C) which makes controlling the hotend at temperature impossible.by CapnBry - Controllers
I was powering it over USB as well with a Raspberry Pi which was powered from a 5V switching regulator hooked to the 12V supply, so theoretically this was already the case. As stated in my initial review, the power usage does drop when you plug it into USB so that's definitely doing something, but it doesn't drop off completely. I'm not sure if that's just quiescent draw of the regulator. Quote Pby CapnBry - Controllers
Thanks for posting a potential fix, I'm not going to modify my board because I bought an official smoothieboard which works perfectly and I'll just sell this one in like-new condition. Good luck with your future revisions! I really liked the design and price right up to the point where it didn't work.by CapnBry - Controllers
QuoteGeoDave UPDATE 7/18: I hooked up the heated bed using some 100k thermistors I ordered here . The temperature is holding solid with no problem. It does jump up/down one degree every once in a while but no big jumps like on the hotend. There's two reasons those 100K thermistors work better. At 100C (typical bed temperatures), there's a lot more resistance than at 230C hotend temperatrures. Thby CapnBry - Controllers
QuoteCapnBry My SBASE is almost unusable as a 3D printer controller due to the noise making the nozzle temperature jump all around. I'm going to try updating the firmware because the smoothieboard has a much newer version of the firmware, which maybe adds some software filtering to the ADCs. I tried installing the newer firmware from the Smoothieboard to the SBASE (which is awesomely simple to dby CapnBry - Controllers
Quoteinnkeeper I've had no such issues in maintaining hot end temp, and so far tested it with a Pico, a e3d v4 and a makergear v3b. Also auto tune seems to work fine for me. That's very odd. I removed the SBASE and connected the exact same printer in the exact same configuration to a Smoothieboard and the temperature is rock solid. My SBASE is almost unusable as a 3D printer controller due to thby CapnBry - Controllers
I was using the 2 pin connector, yeah. It would be difficult to tell if they've got all the grounds running together because I don't have a schematic or layout file and a multimeter is just going to tell you they're connected. I'm waiting on my bonafide Smoothieboard for the comparison so now I am really anxious to get it. Interesting tidbit about the 1k on the Duet! That does make sense becauseby CapnBry - Controllers
If it wasn't plugged into the right pins, it wouldn't read anything at all. But yeah there is definitely some bad stuff going on here and I'm trying to figure out if is a problem in the board design itself or it my combination of parts is causing the problem. To do that I'd need to pull the RAMPS controller and power supply from my other printer and use that to power the hotend to see if it behavby CapnBry - Controllers
Well I found something to complain about now that the rest of the printer is up and running. I could not get it to maintain a hotend temperature on my official E3D v6 hotend. It would fluctuate 3-5 degrees either way, and the PID controller was going nuts trying to maintain it. I tried the PID autotune but it didn't help, so what I did was just set the PWM heater output manually to a fixed valueby CapnBry - Controllers
I guess I was speaking theoretically. TCP/IP can use a 64kB window and have multiple frames in flight at any given time (going and coming). Duet/LWIP might perform better than Smoothie/UIP, but they are coming nowhere near "filling the pipe" especially if supporting more than one connection at once with such limited resources. That said, in practical application it could be sufficient for low banby CapnBry - Controllers
Oh I totally agree. It is a shame it is so slow though because I'm sure a lot of code went into making it work. I think half of the problem is the UIP library they use for the networking. I used this on an Arduino many years back to add networking to my project and it was pretty A) amazing that a whole network stack can be implemented in like 15kB awful because you could only support one connectby CapnBry - Controllers
QuoteDark Alchemist So, in my case, it would be really slow for me? USB should never be that slow for a decade, or more, now. USB 1.1 was a max of around 12mbits so it seems it is even slower than that which is not acceptable in today's world. Glad to know even Smoothie sucks in this department so I don't waste my money. I don't think you're understanding what we're talking about. This is specby CapnBry - Controllers
QuoteDark Alchemist Need for him to clarify and my SD card reader is USB 3.0 and 2.2 backwards compatible which on a standard older PC takes hardly anytime whatsoever to transfer files to and from it. So, if I am stuck without a SD card, or being able to have anything with modern decent speeds to transfer my gcode over, then even the smoothie would not be for me. I don't need the speed of USB 3by CapnBry - Controllers
QuoteDejay I want to just use it over the web interface and without USB / SD card. Is that a bad idea? Can I even copy a gcode file over ethernet onto the board? Wow I didn't think the ethernet would be so slow because the web interface pops up so quickly (although there isn't much to it). Uploading a 6MB file took five minutes, which is 21kbit/s.by CapnBry - Controllers
I received the MKS SBASE V1.0 Motherboard yesterday and spent the night checking it out. The small MOSFETS for E0 E1 and FAN are LR7843 International Rectifier 30V 3.3mOhm 161A/140W. The one large MOSFET for the BED is VS40200AT Vangaurd Semiconductor 40V 3mOhm 200A/300W. The MOSFETs as well as the DRV8825s are heatsinked with vias through the board to the back, where they meet a second copper pby CapnBry - Controllers
Quotethe_digital_dentist Glass is definitely an insulator compared to aluminum. My 12" x 12.5" x 1/4" cast/milled aluminum tooling plate cost $30 from an industrial metals supply company. Yup, I got a 12x12x1/4" piece of cast MIC-6 aluminum for my bed for this new printer. Just like Dark Alchemist my i3 had a 4 point leveling mechanism. I could not get it level even using a servo z-endstop doingby CapnBry - Controllers
I totally agree with you, man. Even if it is spelled out explicitly, who knows what you're going to get. I'm kind of excited to have a look at it though, I feel like I'm going to be the first person to have one and objectively look it over! I'm amassing parts build a new 12x12 corexy printer out of v-slot to supplement or replace my 8x8 i3 which is somewhat temperamental and I can use the additioby CapnBry - Controllers
Yeah I'm not sure the images they have there are 100% accurate because looking at what pins they brought out, P0.14 isn't actually a thing as far as I can tell. Neither set seems to make much sense. EXP1 P1.31 - SCK1/AD0[5] P1.30 - AD0[4] P0.18 - MOSI0 P0.16 - SSEL0 P0.14 - Not a thing? So EXP1 is 1/2 an SPI bus (MOSI0/SSEL0, missing MISO0, SCK0), 2 ADC pins (AD0 4 and 5), and one mystery pin.by CapnBry - Controllers
I've been looking at electronics for my new printer and came across this as well. It has everything you need for dual extruders... unless you need always-on fans on your extruders like an E3D V6. Compared to the smoothieboard which has 3 large MOSFET outputs and 3 small MOSFET outputs, this has what looks like one largeish and 3 mediums. No specs so you can't tell exactly how large they are. Alsoby CapnBry - Controllers
My extrusion should be dialed in pretty well. I do have ooze issues for sure though. What are your retraction settings? I run 1mm @ 13mm/s. If I try to go above 15mm/s, the stepper stalls out (tried swapping drivers, stepper, changing current). I've also tried up to 2mm retraction but couldn't tell much difference other than I started to get restart problems. It doesn't help that my filament isby CapnBry - General Mendel Topics
Do keep us posted. This is the only problem I have with my MakerFarm i3. It works great printing along at 70mm/s but every so often I have a print where the Y axis digs into the print. It always happens on a travel move where the carriage is moving toward the back, just as you describe. My prints are generally quite good and everything is tight, it's just that the nozzle sliding over the surfaceby CapnBry - General Mendel Topics
There's also OctoPrint if you're just looking to put a network interface on an existing printer with serial support. I've connected mine directly (with level-shifting) from RAMPS 1.4 to the RaspberryPi UART. Works great from multiple machines at the same time, with temperature graphs, gcode visualization, progress reports, webcam recording/timelapse, file storage and upload. Really great stuff.by CapnBry - Controllers
Sounds like they're either floating or inverted. If you just put switches on, then make sure you enabled ENDSTOPPULLUPS in the firmware configuration. If that's set, then maybe you need to flip the X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING depending on if you got NO or NC switches.by CapnBry - General Mendel Topics
You're not going to find anything else that plugs into that because it is designed to be it's own mate, not to be interchangeable. I ordered an ATX extension cable and a 12V ATX extension cable from Amazon and cut one end off them and used them to plug into my ATX power supply. I paid about $8 combined and I prefer being able to disconnect the power supply if I need to.by CapnBry - RAMPS Electronics