We're currently having a big sale on filament at . All esun PLA and PVA filament is on sale, with prices up to 40% off. We have 2.3kg and 1.0kg rolls in 1.75mm and 3mm diameter.by 3dkarma - For Sale
You need to level your bed. Where you have thick lines, the nozzle is closer to the bed and the extrusion is being smooshed down more.by 3dkarma - Printing
Quoteelwood127 Ok 3Dkarma and gmh39, no M commands have any effect. I can see the command in the log but nothing appears accept for 3 second temp checks. My fault. Repetier does not support M503, so nothing will appear when you send it to your Melzi. Quoteelwood127 Also, where do I enable EEPROM in Repetier? It's enabled by default when you go through the Repetier configuration (see below).by 3dkarma - General
Soggy fill might be too high a temperature. Gaps in walls is caused by the slicing software not being able to fill due to the extrusion width: if you've got a 1.25 mm thick wall and your extrusion width is .5mm, you're going to end up with a .25mm gap in the middle. Have you run through the calibration guide on the reprap wiki yet?by 3dkarma - Printing
Take a look at TurboSquid. Lots of manga models there.by 3dkarma - General
Quoteelwood127 Hey DC, I'm having a heck of a time trying to find out how to change my Z Steps. Where will I find my gcode file and what text editor should I use to view it? Prusa I3 w/ Later Melzi board, Repetier and Slic3r. Thanks. You can use any reasonable text editor to look at your gcode file (it's just text, after all). Alternatively, take a look at gcode.ws - it's a visualiser that youby 3dkarma - General
Fundamentally, your hot end isn't going to the position it's been told to on each layer. There's a few things that can cause it: loose belts, overheating stepper motors or drivers, loose and wobbling hot end. I'd look to tightening the belts up, making sure the hot end is nice and tight in its mount and checking the temperature of the stepper motors and drivers during a print. If you've got ovby 3dkarma - Printing
1. What repository are you downloading them from? 2. What do you mean by the github app? 3. I think you mean STL files, not still files. STL files have the file extension ".stl". OpenSCAD files have the file extension ".scad". You can print the STL files without first loading them into OpenSCAD - in fact, you won't be able to load the STL files into OpenSCAD. You need to run the STL files thrby 3dkarma - Object repositories
Dropbox doesn't seem to like your files. If I had to guess, on the smaller prints a given layer doesn't have enough time to cool down before the next is deposited, resulting in a melty look. This can happen even with active cooling. For a quick check, try printing two at once.by 3dkarma - Printing
The obvious thing to do, if the increased temp is messing up your prints, is to slow the print down. Do you have active cooling pointing at the laid-down plastic? This can help with increased temps.by 3dkarma - Printing
Do you mean the prusa i3 rework? It would help to know specifically what you have - any links to the one you're building would help.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
I had a similar problem and managed to solve it by reducing travel speed (not the print speed, just the speed at which the printer makes non-printing moves).by 3dkarma - General
I'd definitely mod the Wades to take the collet. It's a slight modification. I've created a belt-driven extruder based on the Wade's and incorporated a mod to allow the collet to be used, plus it allows the PTFE to go straight up to just below the hobbed bolt, making printing with flexible filament a doodle.by 3dkarma - General
Cheap Chinese Mosfets also tend to burn out. There are three on the board; two quite close to one another and one close to and with its back to the power connectors. The latter is the one for the heat bed and the one that tends to burn out. If you have any discoloration or melting of the power connectors, chances are your heat bed mosfet has burnt out.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Have you tried increasing the stepper motor voltage slightly?by 3dkarma - Prusa i3 and variants
I have built a machine using RJMP-01-08 and found that they can distort and bind fairly easily. They seemed to work best with a light clamp that surrounds the bearing. I think the cable tie tends to compress in one direction. Edit: the Y carriage has igus on it secured with zip ties and they work absolutely fine.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
As well as checking to make sure you're using the correct thermistor settings, I would check the wiring. Thermistors vary resistance with temperature: resistance decreases as temperature increases. A reading that high could indicate that there's a short in your thermistor wiring.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
If you have RAMPS, you can buy a fan extender that will then allow you to control two fans independently with gcode. Ooznest sell one and have instructions on their product page.by 3dkarma - General
That makes more sense. The best results, according to Triffid Hunter's calibration guide, are when layer height < 80% of nozzle diameter and extrusion width >= nozzle diamter. That means that your print settings for extrusion width are going to be dictated by the largest nozzle diameter. If your extrusion width is good for the 0.4mm nozzles but less than 1mm, the chances are you will getby 3dkarma - General
What kind of problems are you having?by 3dkarma - Jobs for people with RepRap skills
5/16-14 is 5/16 in diameter (8mm or thereabouts) and 14 revolutions per inch, or 1 / (1/25.4 * 14) = 1.814285714285714 mm per revolution. Plugging that into the reprap calculator () you get 1763.78 steps per mm, assuming 1/16 micro-stepping and 1.8 degrees per step (which are the defaults).by 3dkarma - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you looking for something beside the nozzle diameter setting under the printer settings tab? I'm not entirely sure what you're asking. You can create multiple printer profiles, each with a different nozzle width, if you're physically changing extruders. If you have a multiple concurrent extruder setup, you set the number of extruders in Slic3r accordingly and you can set the nozzle diameteby 3dkarma - General
That things going to screech like nothing else when moving along the X axis. Really good idea if you can solve the friction issue. What might work is coupling a square bearing to a hobbed gear somehow.by 3dkarma - Prusa i3 and variants
I think you've diagnosed your own problem - you're over extruding. The reprap wiki has some excellent advice for fine-tuning e-steps per mm to combat this.by 3dkarma - Printing
The clue is in the pronterface message - the baud rate for communicating to the printer is wrong. You don't say what firmware you're using, but you should be able to check the configuration (look for Configuration.h) to see the baud rate the printer is set at. In Marlin, this is (at its default): // This determines the communication speed of the printer #define BAUDRATE 250000 If your baud rby 3dkarma - General
If the firmware isn't loaded then the printer won't respond to pronterface. Either that or the driver hasn't loaded (it should load automatically, though, so the more likely reason is that the firmware hasn't been loaded onto the printer). A quick google leads me to believe that the firmware hasn't been loaded. The replikeo wiki has instructions for installing Marlin here: .by 3dkarma - Prusa i3 and variants
Have you modified pins.h at all?by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Do you know if the firmware has been loaded onto the printer's board?by 3dkarma - Prusa i3 and variants
What electronics are you using? If this is mis-configured the pin settings will be wrong and it will do things like not heating the bed.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Take a look at this thread: In short, the general feeling is that you may get some backlash with belts, but you may have tensioning issues with line. Line is definitely cheaper and possibly faster, but there's only anecdotal evidence to back the latter claim up.by 3dkarma - Mechanics