Yeah, I'll try getting rid of them on ebay. They are quite expensive when new, but a bit of a niche! The first to go will hopefully pay my Duet Wifi! Cheersby jpt000 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Hello all, These Animatics motors are stepper motors (NEMA23) that include controller, encoder and IO all in the same package. Apparently they are used in CNC and others. I got my hands on a bunch of these motors from an obsolete machine in the lab. It sounds like the perfect motors for a really nice printer but I can't see a way to control them. Any ideas?by jpt000 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Thanks GroupB, just checked on Oozenest and by the time you add up the raps128, due and radds you get to the price of the Duet Wifi. The removable drivers are a definite plus, but at the same price I think the TMC2660 might have be slightly better (if only for the silence). Plus the added bonus of the wifi and the web interface - no need for an octopi.by jpt000 - Controllers
OK, that sounds like a tangible difference. But wouldn't one expect RRP on RADDS to reach the level of the Duet version in a fairly short term? Don't get me wrong... I'm trying to argue against the Duet because I really want one! But I would like to make sure the price difference is worth it. If I understand correctly, with RRP installed they are very similar boards (albeit the RRP for RADDS beiby jpt000 - Controllers
Hello all, sorry if this has been discussed before. I am in the process of building my second reprap, this time a corexy using some 2020 extrusion and recycling a bunch of really nice linear rails I rescued from machines that were going to the dump at work. I was thinking of going 24V for this one and initially single extruder but with the possibility of going with 2 or more. I have spent the lasby jpt000 - Controllers
Printing a couple of decouplers is a lot cheaper than buying trapezoidal leadscrew and not a huge investment in time. The wobbling could come from what Ralf suggested above, which would also be corrected using this method. If it doesn't improve then start looking elsewhere.by jpt000 - Printing
It means that the x axis is not tied to the z axis. The nut that is moving on the leadscrew is on a different part from the x-ends. The x-axis lies on top of this part but is not fixed to it. The added bonus is that if by any chance your hot end hits the bed it won't be forcing down, as the x axis is not being actively pulled down.by jpt000 - Printing
To avoid wobbling effects you could also try to decouple your Z and X - this way no matter how much your leadscrew wobbles, it woun't affect your head position at all. CHeck this one out: Good luck!by jpt000 - Printing
Hi, just got mine a few days ago, and as Wmtdanimal said, it warps - even cold it is slightly bulging in the centre, so you can't get a nice even surface. I'll probably end up putting the glass plate on top of it. If you like the idea of the alu surface, you'd be better off getting a 'plain' mk2a and slapping a 4mm alu plate on it. Or even carbon fibre...by jpt000 - Controllers
I think it might be the MOSFETS on my RAMPS (cheap chinese from ebay). Just order new ones and hope these will solve the problem.by jpt000 - General Mendel Topics
Hi everyone, for some weird reason my heated bed (MK3) decided to heat up as soon as I turn on the power. It heats up to bout 67ºC and stays there, even if I tell it to lower. Any ideas? Prusa i3 RAMPS 1.4 Repetier 0.91 Thanks!by jpt000 - General Mendel Topics
Hi all, I am having some weird problems with my Prusa i3. All my axes seem to move fine. X and Y home fine. Z moves up and down just fine, but when I press the home button it makes a weird noise and doesn't move. I am using the latest Repetier firmware with a RAMPS 1.4 setup. Any ideas? Cheersby jpt000 - General Mendel Topics
Looking at the Thingiverse page for the Greg Wade extruder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379) it seems there are different mounts for the hotends. There seems to be one that might fit your hotend. Do you have access to a 3d printer to get one? If not, do you think you could fit some washers in between the extruder and the holder just to get it going and print yourself a better extruder forby jpt000 - General Mendel Topics
Actually, I figured that just swapping the X-axis (keeping the linear bearings pointing forward) moved the nozzle right where it should be. In any case, for anyone planning a new build - go with longer rods for the Y-axis, even if just to have a little room to play with. Cheersby jpt000 - General Mendel Topics
Yeah, I moved the bearings closer together and also cut out about 40mm of the frame to move the whole frame forward. The value for the smooth rod is actually 370mm. I think I might get some new smooth rods (and corresponding threaded rods). Thanks!by jpt000 - General Mendel Topics
Hi, you should have a mount similar to this: It attaches your extruder to the x-carriage. Also, it looks like sdavi is right - the adapter on the top of your j-head is not very common. It should attach straight onto the bottom of the Wade's extruder (which usually has two holes for M3 screws to hold the hot hand). Good luck!by jpt000 - General Mendel Topics
Hi all, I've been assembling a box frame Prusa i3 following the BOM from . The problem I was faced with (and apparently a couple of users in the forum found the same thing) is that with this setup the Y-axis doesn't allow the build plate to move all the way forward, losing about 1/3 of the build surface. I think the problem lies on the length of the Y-axis threaded and smooth rods - these shouldby jpt000 - General Mendel Topics