Show all posts by user

Re: How to silence a rotary encoder? - 4 years ago

Mechanical click or audio beep/ click when you press the button? For the latter, go to config.h and see note below about disabling sound. // SPEAKER/BUZZER // // If you have a speaker that can produce tones, enable it here. // By default Marlin assumes you have a buzzer with a fixed frequency. // //#define SPEAKER // // The duration and frequency for the UI feedback sound. // Set these to 0

by alan richard - General

Re: Over-Extruding - 9 years ago

Ah sorry, Rockel. I read you a bit wrong there first time. I should have seen from your picture that you aren't over-extruding that much! I'm not sure then. Maybe slicer bugginess as suggested. Not a chunk of filament that was bigger than measured? One method I use to adjust extrusion amount (saw it on the www somewhere) is to print a small object in 'vase' mode with a single perimeter, check

by alan richard - Printing

Re: Over-Extruding - 9 years ago

QuoteRockel83 . . . I took the 10cm strings which I extruded in mid air to check the extruder steps/mm. . . Nooo. You measure how far the filament travels thru the extruder alone without the hotend on if possible, not the extruded strings. I'm not surprised your over-extruding! QuoteRockel83 The filament diameter is 1.78 so this is set correct to. Also worth measuring it in 2 planes ac

by alan richard - Printing

Re: migration to dual bowden extruders - 9 years ago

Ah, I see. You may transmit some heat through the heatsink.(But if it works - it works) I think my heatbreak screws into the heatsink barrel tight and then the other end locks against the nozzle in the heater block to leave a gap between the block and heatsink. Awkward X-axis. No easy solution? I think you have to 'bite the bullet' and fix it - you will regret it later. Can you add something? A

by alan richard - General

Re: migration to dual bowden extruders - 9 years ago

You can't have too many PID autotunes. It wouldn't hurt to check the numbers again. There are fittings available where the PTFE will pass through. I have also drilled one thru and it seems to work out ok, it still grips the tube. On the v.6 clone I have now, the PTFE goes right down through the heatbreak to the heater nozzle. A previous one I used was, as yours, with a step just below the fitti

by alan richard - General

Re: Teacup: firmware made simple, newbies wanted - 9 years ago

Thanks ntoff. Yes pronterface.exe I believe. I will double check but I think that I picked the 64bit versions of both. I may try again with 32 bit versions. -a

by alan richard - General

Re: China NEMA17 Stepper Motor Torque Rating Scam - 9 years ago

According to microstepping-myths-and-realities Microsteps/full step Holding Torque/Microstep 1 100.00% 2 70.71% 4 38.27% 8 19.51% 16 9.80% 32 4.91% Suggesting that your 1

by alan richard - Mechanics

Re: Teacup: firmware made simple, newbies wanted - 9 years ago

Hi I'd like to try it but- Can anyone offer some clues for Python installation (Win.7 x64)? If I click configtool.py - I get the message; Import error - no module named wx Please install wxPython . . . The wiki states; Prerequisites You need the same as when running Pronterface: Python 2.7.x. Matching wxPython. avr-gcc and avrdude OR Arduino IDE (installed or just unpacked). That's it, chan

by alan richard - General

Re: Printer Calibration and firmware - 9 years ago

4000 steps per mm, agree. (for M5 standard (M5 fine is 0.5 pitch so; 6400) measure it) Why have you got; Steps per unit: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z533.33 E961.70 (No wonder you're hitting previous layers.) The speed should be the same whatever the Steps per unit. Have you tried just moving z and measuring it? -a

by alan richard - Printing

Re: Bed position change while printing to the next layer - 9 years ago

Sure. 1. Y axis/bed is slipping on loose belt or motor is skipping with not enough power. You can hear it on the movie 2. If motors are rough, have you adjusted the motor current As for FR% - it is more usual to set print speed in slicer program. What speed is it set? It looks fairlyfast in the film. 3. Too much plastic coming out. Extruder not calibrated in firmware, filament or nozzle size

by alan richard - Reprappers

Re: A reprap - 9 years ago

Hey Bruce. Good to hear your doings and glad to hear you found a use for that Ali plate you kept for 30 years! I'm always on the lookout for new ideas. This Airptripper is not bad generally, but it could be easier to reload/ switch filament. I use it with a mk.8 type gear; drive gear Usually good but occasionally something will jam and shred filament or skip a step. I've got a slightly beefie

by alan richard - Look what I made!

Re: A reprap - 9 years ago

It's been a strange journey Andrew. I think that I did it all the wrong way round. The Air would have been an easier one to start with. I want to pick your brains about the Octogoat box in the near future. 'Great minds' Bruce! The light is a really useful addition. Its wired into the hotend fan. I had the same issue with the filament path. The Bowden tube stopped at the fitting and there was

by alan richard - Look what I made!

Re: Slicing program with the most settings - 9 years ago

Kisslicer is worth a look. It's got lots of knobs on and the results are quite good. You need to add some end g-code to home an axis otherwise it just leaves the hot end nozzle parked on top of your print melting a hole in it when finished. -a

by alan richard - Printing

Re: cant level the bed - 9 years ago

Level the bed once with one sheet of paper thick. The slicer knows where to put the nozzle depending on layer thickness after that. Read this! There's something wrong with the extrusion rate. -a

by alan richard - Reprappers

Re: Scaling in Slic3r - 9 years ago

0.7% is very little. (Stating the obvious) The only workaround I can think of is to scale it to 1%, Export the .STL from Slic3r. Re-import the new .STL and scale that to 70%. -a

by alan richard - Slic3r

Re: A reprap - 9 years ago

Thanks again! Have squirted a few kilo of goo out since the vid. and still going strong. Few mods; Have just upgraded the business end to an E3Dv6 (Chinese knock-off, sorry Sanjay!) with a genuine 0.6mm nozzle. The other (knock-off v5, I think) had some snags internally that caught on the end of filament. And fitted a fan duct and a LED print light Have reluctantly taken the ptfe tube out

by alan richard - Look what I made!

Re: Prints fail, everytoime. - 9 years ago

Heat creeping up from the hotend? (Is there a nozzle fan?) A gap between nozzle and heat break where a plug of soft filament is forming? Too much retraction pulling soft filament up the heat break? -a

by alan richard - Printing

Re: Help me make my objects warp! - 9 years ago

What's that plastic primer that you mention, Downunder35M? Sounds interesting. -a

by alan richard - Printing

Re: The most expensive Nike shoes - 9 years ago

You know you're not allowed to touch the nurses computer. Now get back to your ward or I'll call the orderlies again! -a

by alan richard - Reprappers

Re: No warp, less moisture, NEW Nylon, the best ever - 9 years ago

Shall we send you our mailing address? #3! -a

by alan richard - For Sale

Re: Mechanical endstop dimensions or CAD design? - 9 years ago

-a

by alan richard - General

Re: strange extrusion problem - 9 years ago

The knocking noise is probably the extruder stalling and restarting. You could check motor current. I'd say take careful note of the nozzle assembly instructions. It's important that the nozzle tightens against the heatbreak and not the heater block. also the ptfe tube needs to push up tight. Check instructions about a 'chamfer' on the end of it. -a

by alan richard - General

Re: Prusa Air 2 by Mecano - anyone have experience - 9 years ago

I wondered if they were all recycled into i3's! It has an Alu bed with no adjustment so it would have to be a base for another adjustable bed on top. Good for packing insulation in though. -a

by alan richard - General Mendel Topics

Re: Aluminium Heat Bed - 9 years ago

Yes. It's called Google. 1.5 seconds of google searching later -a

by alan richard - Reprappers

Prusa Air 2 by Mecano - anyone have experience - 9 years ago

thingiverse http://reprap.org/wiki/Air_2 I'm not sure why I did it, but I bought a lasercut aluminium frame for an air2 printer - it was an ebay bargain (A bargain that will cost me a few hundred quid to make a printer I don't really need - oh well) Has anyone built one - modified it - any tips? I think the design maybe could be improved on. Mount the motors to the bottom to bring the C of

by alan richard - General Mendel Topics

Re: Strange side-wall imperfections - 9 years ago

The layer height looks fairly even from your scope picture and looks like 0.25 from the scale of your dimensions. The middle points of each layer look vertical and well aligned Maybe variation in filament thickness. . . ? -a Edit: 'maybe' added.

by alan richard - Printing

Re: My z lead screw has a wobble to it and it can't be replaced so is there a software fix for Sli3r? - 9 years ago

You mean in the same way that Mach3 can compensate for a worn axis screw? Nope, I doubt it. -a

by alan richard - Mechanics

Re: wiring fan and hotend together? - 9 years ago

Are your Output FET's on the board touching each other? -a

by alan richard - Reprappers

Re: power supply shuts off when heating hotend - 9 years ago

Do they work when not connected? Disconnect the hotend at the board and try again. Disconnect everything and reconnect one item at a time (with power off.) Wiring fault or faulty board maybe. Have you any wiring 'commoned' ie sharing a feed to hotend and fan? -a

by alan richard - RAMPS Electronics

Re: Cannot figure out how to LOAD and UNLOAD Filament.....NEWB - 9 years ago

It's on the LCD menu under; Prepare/ Move axis/ Move 1mm/ extruder -a

by alan richard - Reprappers