We might be having the same problem, I posted a topic on this as well. Whenever my motors move, they move in sections, instead of point A to B. Are we having the same issue? I wouldn't mind solving this cause I can't print anythingby InspecteurSpie - Controllers
Hello, I ran into a problem where every movement with the x and y axis move in sections, not a point A to B but, a move, pause, move, pause, etc. to finally get there... I had a fuse blow out on me for the heated bed, I replaced it, and ever since then the x and y do not move smoothly with printing or even just jogging. However, when I home the printer, there is no issue as it moves to the endstoby InspecteurSpie - Controllers
I asked the supplier about the fuses and he may have added a 0 by accident to the 150A which sounded quite skeptical when I first heard it... The Fuse has a X symbol and a "16" Below it are the characters "GF1100" I can easily solder on a new fuse to the board, and I only plan on using the 200W Heated bed for PLA at around 60-70C To replace this fuse, I should look for an automotive fuse? (aby InspecteurSpie - General
Hello! I tried hooking up a 24V 200W silicone heated bed (This one: ) to my AZSMZ (smoothie clone) 3D Printer board. My PSU: 24V 20A -The heater does not have polarity -The fuse for the heated bed can handle up to 150A (I doubt I'd ever need that much) -In a wattage to amperage converter, my heated bed will take up 8.5~ Amps max when the heated bed is turned on. My 3D Printer was working fineby InspecteurSpie - General
Yes, and yes. When its all together, I try pushing the filament to the end of the nozzle from the top of the barrel all ok, the hotend does have cooling fins, and the temperature readings are correct.by InspecteurSpie - General
Yes, Yes, I was tricked into buying the low quality hotend from aliexpress. The actual E3D V6 would of costed me 120$ because of shipping where as the Chinese rip off was 20$ Here's my problem... The hotend is fed with 1.75mm PLA at 210C, and flows easily by hand for about a third of a second. After that, it is really hard to push through the nozzle, until it clogs completely. I have opened thby InspecteurSpie - General
This is the one I got. I can't check my board because it is screwed down, and wires have been threaded everywhere, I'll verify if it is really important. Thanks!by InspecteurSpie - Controllers
This post has been up for a while, I figured out that I cannot move the servo backwards, I can move it lets say to the 30 degrees point, but not back. I tried setting up the z probe, but all it does it hit the glass and make a loud noise, I set the 3 point auto leveling to true, but it never does this. I'll post my config file below if anyone can help: #leveling-strategy.three-poinby InspecteurSpie - Controllers
Hi, I've updated my AZSMZ to the newest version of smoothieware, and I have successfully hooked up a servo to the board. First off, what would be the command to simply move the servo a specific amount? M280 S7.5 simply runs power through the servo, but doesn't actually move it, and M281 turns it off. Second, how would I be able to make the servo move during the Z Probe process? Example: Homeby InspecteurSpie - Controllers
Have you fixed the problem yet? I have this problem only with my Y axis, used to work before, but now when I hooked it up in series, it jitters, and stops, and the driver heats up.by InspecteurSpie - RAMPS Electronics
I'm certain, I'm only moving by the mm at most, they are the same as the z motors. I'll look into it a bit more, and see if there are other posts of jittering motorsby InspecteurSpie - Controllers
Hi, I had my Y axis in series and only one of the motors moves about 1/16 of a revolution when told a command to both move 1mm/or 10mm, then they are unresponsive. - The Y axis worked just fine before on its own. I wired it accordingly to my Z axis that has been wired in series (working flawlessly) - I've looked at my config file, given the right amperage, and steps per mm. - The wiring is dby InspecteurSpie - Controllers
Hi, I have a fairly heavy print bed running on a belt mechanism. I would like to hook my 2 stepper motors in series for the Y Axis to work together, each controlling a different belt. (Prevent belt slipping) My Z Axis is wired in series, and works flawlessly, my question is, will it work with the Y axis too? I am using the new AZSMZ Mini with a 24V 20A psu. My stepper motors have a low amperby InspecteurSpie - Controllers
I changed baudrate and used different micro usb cables, I still haven't been able to connect. I can also edit and work with the config file, view the second photo, I have access to config and changes, but I can't connect it to my computer, I used to, but not anymore.by InspecteurSpie - Controllers
Not the case, it shows the sdcard connected but it still doesn't connect to pronterface, sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. I formatted the sdcard and no difference after adding the config again In the picture you see the sd card connected and the pronterface attempting connection. I have done everything from powering off the board and using different cables to restarting, reinstalling drby InspecteurSpie - Controllers
Hi, After getting my AZSMZ board, I took the following actions: - Updated the smoothieboard driver - Disabled USB SD card control (Said to be a reason for connection issues) - Successfully hooked up thermistors, displaying proper temperatures - Added a 24V 20A Power supply After all this, I plugged in a NEMA17 stepper motor where it locked (current and voltage was flowing) and connected it tby InspecteurSpie - Controllers
SOLVED! Restart your computer, take the mini sd card out and back in, works fine, and the reason it wasn't displaying temperature was cause I did a bad solder job on one of the thermistors, or its brokenby InspecteurSpie - General
Hey, I got my AZSMZ today, and set up the drivers, and put my config on the mini sdcard. I connected it to pronterface, instantly no problems. After unplugging it and adding a thermistor, It properly shows the Temperature. Now I update my driver, and the thermistor no longer displays itself connected. I tried endstops as well Any suggestions?by InspecteurSpie - General
These Are the specs of my stepper motors: NEMA17 Stepper Motor 40mm Long, 1.2A 200 steps per revolution (1.8 deg/step) 2 Phase bipolar 4 wires Rated Voltage 2V DC Rated Current 1.2A Phase Resistance: 1.7 Ohm ± 10% (20º C) Phase inductance: 4.5 mH ± 20% (1kHz 1 V rms) Holding torque: 0.4 N.m Min. Shaft diameter: 5mm / 0.188" (3/16") Shaft length: 22mm Motor depth: 40mm In the picture added, isby InspecteurSpie - Controllers
Hi, I recently purchased 4 x DRV8825 stepper drivers with my AZSMZ Mini Board. I plan to make a Z-Splitter cable where my Stepper Motors receive an equal 1.2A (1.2A is their rated current) On the Texas Instruments site, they say that their stepper driver can handle 2.5A which means that by inputting for my gamma (Z Axis) current: 2.4, I will get an equal 1.2A per Stepper Motor? However, I askby InspecteurSpie - Controllers
QuoteKDan If anyone has already done this, I'd be grateful for some guidance. I'm buying the AZSMZ Mini as my board for my first ever reprap. If anyone has successfully hooked up the board, please please please take a snapshot of it for the other users to avoid fatal mistakes to the board. I'm quite new to the whole installation, and I feel as if it will take much more time than it should justby InspecteurSpie - Controllers
The duet costs 153$ (shipping included) This is simply too expensive, the Rumba isn't 32 bit, so that's a no go. The AZSMZ Mini, looks like my best bet: Can anyone give me a reason not to buy this thing? My concentration is on portability, and since I can easily hook up a lcd to it, and everything else in general, it seems ideal for my standards of balance between price, and quality. Also,by InspecteurSpie - General
Okay, after many hours of searching, I have finally piled up all of the electrical components for a reprap! Can someone do me a HUGEEEE favor, and tell me if I'm missing anything? Or if some components aren't compatible with others? J-Head Hotend (for now): RUMBA Board (still not decided yet but almost certain): Micro Usb cord: Power Supply Unit: LCD with SD reader: Stepper Motors:by InspecteurSpie - General
With a AZSMZ Mini, can it support two Z stepper motors? Sort of like a Prusa Mendle i3. If no, then should I go with a RUMBA? Sorry, I'm relatively new to this I also have an LCD below, does it matter which LCD goes with which board?by InspecteurSpie - General
I've been looking at the RUMBA, it seems like a decent board, especially with the cost, it also has the precision of 1 out of 16 per step which is extraordinary. Should I get this as my board? Or should I get a Duet? Id like to state that I have used the RAMBO on my printer, and it seems like a low cost board, unfortunately, I do not like the idea that the entire board must be replaced if aby InspecteurSpie - General
Thanks so much for the replies everyone! I will look at the aliexpress urls and get these parts before any real development, thanks! I will also list the parts before I buy all my necessary pieces in case I make a mistake Thanks againby InspecteurSpie - General
Hello folks, I've had my Ez3D Phoenix 3D Printer for almost a year, upgraded it plenty, and I've decided to look into making my very own 3D Printer. I've searched Ebay and found a moderately decent deal on the required electronics for making a prusia i3, except for the fact that I would like to make this 3D printer with different dimensions (i.e. Using my Phoenix to print custom 3D modeled joby InspecteurSpie - General
Hey thanks for the review, as a pioneer in 3D Printing and only being 15 years of age, this printer has been troublesome but of great success once all the problems have been sorted out. This is definitely not an "out of the box working" printer, nor will it ever be, but if you put enough time in it (5 months for me) This thing will eventually work, and really well might I add. Yes the program freby InspecteurSpie - General