For reference, I am attaching the comment portions of the gcode file that was printing when I took that photo, which includes all of the slic3r settings used when the gcode was generated.by drhender - Slic3r
I am having a little bit of trouble with Slic3r, and am looking for some advice. First of all, I'd like someone to confirm that what I am seeing it to be expected. The attached photo shows the infill pattern that I am seeing in a model sliced at 0.2mm layer height and 25% honeycomb infill. It seems very small to me-- is something wrong here, or is this about what I should expect. (By the way,by drhender - Slic3r
Yes, clearly the infill is honeycomb... That was, after all the infill pattern I selected. And yes, I could switch to a different percentage or pattern, but neither would answer the question as to why the 10% honeycomb pattern is so thick, resulting in large hexagons. If the walls were thinner and there was no inner wall as I previously stated, the hexagons could have been much smaller, used a sby drhender - Slic3r
Using Slic3r 1.2.9, I sliced Yoda this morning for a test print. It was set to use two outer shells and a honeycomb infill at 10%. I was surprised to find that the infill walls are two or three layers thick and the infill includes an inner she'll that mirrors the outer shell. (See attached photo.). The result is very few, relatively thick internal supporting walls instead of many more thin waby drhender - Slic3r
The trimpot is on the display controller board. The pins for that trimpot can be seen in the bottom right corner of the photo I posted previously. The display board is tightly daughtered and soldered to the display controller board-- there's no way to photograph the back of the 12864.by drhender - Controllers
After closer inspection, I realized that pins one and two were on the same trace. I confirmed this by removing power from the board and testing the resistance between the pins... there was no resistance. After powering back on, I confirmed that 1 to ground and 2 to ground always showed a full 5VDC regardless of the position of the pot. So I cut the trace between them. After cutting the tracby drhender - Controllers
I soldered in a 270 ohm resister as you did, but it made no difference. I am attaching a photo of my PCB as suggested by DC42-- it appears to be a similar board to yours. It appears that your board has a wider boarder than mine, but that may just be a difference in production runs. I am going to try different resisters as you suggest. I also notice that there is a pair of spots near the trimpby drhender - Controllers
Tell me a little bit more... Once you had added the resister, did the trimpot or software setting allow you to further adjust the contrast? Did you have to cut any traces? ( I ask because I might wire up a new trimpot if the existing one doesn't work.) BTW, how did you know to do that? Thanks for the info!by drhender - Controllers
I am working on a new Prusa/Graber i3 printer, but am having an issue with the LCD. Here's what I am using: Arduino Mega 2560 Ramps 1.4 RepRapDiscount Full Graphics Smart Controller (previous edition w/ potentiometer and red PC Marlin Firmware - Stable branch (downloaded this weekend) I have been successful in building the Marlin firmware and downloading it to the Arduino. The controller bootsby drhender - Controllers