That is actually a going point I was about to join the ride and load RRF in my RADDS byt I'm using Repetier-Server on a Raspi. It has the same "problem" it is now using the programming USB port. Does anyone has this setup up and running?by Nandox7 - Controllers
Thank you. So far I'm using a capacitative sensor as I had trouble making an inductive work with my bed. May review it again when I change my printer bed.by Nandox7 - Printing
Why do people use inductive sensors when they are so limited compared for example to a capacitative sensor? Is it because of size/weight or precision?by Nandox7 - Printing
Awesome detailed explanation! Thank you. I'll try the same approach using a Y cable, seems to be the fastest and easier method.by Nandox7 - Controllers
Hey I'm on the same boat... have the LCD but it doesn't' work. Will you share the PCB layout over OSHpark or similar in the future?by Nandox7 - Developers
Thanks everyone for their input. @dc42, how would I connect them in series? The board already has the pin headers to plug the 2x Z steppers.by Nandox7 - Controllers
Hey all, What are folks here using in terms of voltage/current set in the drivers in their RADDS? I have the RAPS128 drivers and Nema 17 stepper motors. I ask as the Z seems to be quite weak, I have the driver set to 1.16v. And barely touching rods when it's moving make them stop I'd expect a bit more of torque, so I wonder if the current is low. Thanks!by Nandox7 - Controllers
Thanks for sharing. I have a tyre gauge at home that I can use to do this and give it a try. I have spent some time thinking in some fancy solutions but this approach seems to be quite good.by Nandox7 - General
Interesting thread as most of the upgrades/changes mentioned I've done them or will do them soon. So far I've moved to M8 leadscrews for the Z and it made quite a change, not only in precision as well as noise. And changed all linear bearings to iGus bushings. The next is X and Y, I got also M8 leadscrews and have got the nuts with built-in anti-backlash system. Now just need to design the parby Nandox7 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all, I'm upgrading the extruder in my Hephestos and I'd like to keep the same wiring. So for that I need to make cables for the new fan's and heater and ideally use the same connector types. I've searched around and even posted in their forum but got no reply... I believe they are JST type connectors but I can't get the exact model to order them. If anyone knows this it would be great.by Nandox7 - Prusa i3 and variants
Just out of curiosity what colors did you guys used? I had Red (that is actually orange...) and Purple. The Purple was the worst... spent lots of filament until I had a decent print settings and later when printing it kept clogging the nozzle and parts would get too brittle. Even going up as much as 225deg. Plus it was really brittle in some spots, I'd find parts with 1mt or more where it wouldby Nandox7 - General
Maybe because is bad? I couldn't get any decent prints with it, super brittle and really inconsistent diameter. Ended up only using when doing tests pars, for the final one I use another filament.by Nandox7 - General
QuoteDavid J But be aware that the XBox PSU won't be able to power the hotend and a heated bed together - been there, done that, failed. It will certainly run the printer without the heated bed though. I'd say it depends on the amount of current your printing is drawing. I also would not recommend it BUT truth is I've been running my printer with hotbed for months without any issue. The cableby Nandox7 - General
Good question. Actually before was powering the servos rail, so it was connected opposite to the power_on pin into the VCC pin. Now I have it out.by Nandox7 - RAMPS Electronics
@cdru, just checked it. It was pulling the pin high with 3,80v. Found that odd and as it was plugged to my RaspPi over USB I decided to plug to my laptop. And magic happened I managed to get 4.80v when pulled high and it started working. Odd thing is I plugged it back over USB to the RaspI and it works fine now. @David J, I was not even printing. It was just turning it on. My RaspPi is powby Nandox7 - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, I have a Xbox PSU 203W and want to use it with my Printer. Currently I have it all wired and working fine BUT I also want to be able to control it's power using the M8[0-1] commands. I did wired the Power_ON cable from the PSU to the RAMPs 1.4 and it effectively works but what happens is that the power is not stable. The PSU led keeps flashing between green-red and the supply is clearlyby Nandox7 - RAMPS Electronics
Those look cool. Any idea on the precision compared to the normal switches?by Nandox7 - General
Ok, I'll explore that, most likely it will requite some custom code. Thanks!by Nandox7 - RAMPS Electronics
I was actually trying to add a led that gets on whenever the head bad is above X degrees.by Nandox7 - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks again Dave, much appreciated. I'll try those gcodes tonight. I usually print with 0.2mm I went for 0.1mm for this specific part as it is a idler pulley and I wanted it to be as smooth and perfect as possible. Yes my filament is 1.75mm and in regards to the temperature, it's an interesting question. The profiles shared by the printer maker use 215 deg C per default, but in the filament spby Nandox7 - Slic3r
@ggherbaz, can you share the sensor that you're using?by Nandox7 - General
Does the RAMPS 1.4 will be directly compatible with the Arduino Due board? I'd like to give this a try.by Nandox7 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Sorry I'm still learning all this 3D printer related stuff. Reading a lot and still lots to read. 1. 0.1mm 2. 0.1mm 3. No 4. Start & End GCode. Start GCode: --- G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F1200 ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0by Nandox7 - Slic3r
I did tried all those settings but Cura simply doesn't generate any support structure. I'm sending the STL in attachment. I'm runing PLA at 215 and 50(0.1 layers)-60(0.2 layers)mm/s of speed. Not sure how to get the bed center but it's 210x210mm. Much appreciated for all the help you've been providing so far.by Nandox7 - Slic3r
Ah ok, I'll check that out. Still lots to read and learn. I did tried Cura in the mean time but for reason I can't get it to generate support for this model. Asked a friend that been using it for longer and he also couldn't get the support to be generated at all for this model in Cura.by Nandox7 - Slic3r
And it seems there are indeed issues with support generation in Slic3r. Source:by Nandox7 - Slic3r
Thanks for the reply. I suppose you mean the extrusion value in the firmware? I haven't. Before I printed another object with support that a friend sent me the gcode from cura and the support could be removed perfectly. So I imagine the extrusion is ok, just some parameter in Slic3r that is not correct.by Nandox7 - Slic3r
Hi all. I'm trying to print a belt pulley but I'm having problem when slecting to use support. I need the support as the upper edge would otherwise fell off during printing. The issue is the support material is so compactly added that it becomes impossible to remove it afterwards. I'm sure I'ts something with the settings but I've just started using Slic3r and 3D printing and if someone coulby Nandox7 - Slic3r