At first I was thinking of using a couple of mechanical switches as endstops, but then I got to thinking that the ones I have are a couple of really cheap chinese ones with quite a long lever. So I now think I will look for another brand, mechanical will suffice I think, but sre there any particular ones that are better than others?by Koenig - Delta Machines
An update regarding the tooling plate: I'm going to pick a 350mm X 350mm cast tooling-plate later todayby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Here in the UK it is very easy to find yourself a business name to trade under that isn't already in use, create a 1-page website for it, create your own headed notepaper (which is even easier now that purchase orders are generally sent by email), and then place business-to-business orders. You could even set up a cooperative with other 3D printer builders in your own country to do thisby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotej0achim How did the search for Aluminium go? Past few weeks I have been dealing with a similar situation here in Norway, no metal company's willing to sell to private-persons, I have a few leads but still am afraid that my search will come up empty handed I came over this rather sexy adapter for using ATX PSU here, it would not necessarily require an adapter to use an ATX power supply butby Koenig - Delta Machines
I mailed Aluminium Warehouse as well but with a very saddening result, they won't deliver to Sweden. But I might have found a local way of getting some tooling plate, won't know for sure until next week though.by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 I'm not convinced that adding a hexagonal plate on top of the frame would gain anything, assuming you use metal frame vertices as I do. But I'm not a mechanical engineer, so I could be wrong. I've emailed Aluminium Warehouse, With luck they will respond on Tuesday. I have a set of the 25k vertices that I'm going to use for this build. Perhaps you are right about it won't gain anythiby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 A hexagonal build plate might be even better and would be easier to cut. I'll email Aluminium Warehouse and see if they can do one. My own printer uses a 5mm aluminium disc from Lakeland Steel. I was lucky, it is flat. I was actually thinking about a hexagonal plate as well, but underneath the round one... A hexagonal plate on top of the bottom frame (adds to ridgity plus it acts asby Koenig - Delta Machines
I'm trying to find a 330mm diameter cast aluminium plate to use as heatbed, but no matter how much I search I can't find any. Last time around I found plenty of these, but now they seems to be hard to find. My plan was using this plate with a 300mm silicone-heater attached to it and then som glass on top of it (300mm glass) Anyone have a good tip regarding this or maybe another way of doing it?by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 That stepper is unfortunately a high voltage/high inductance one, so I don't advise using it. I use for a 3:1 geared extruder. For the 30:1 of the Nimble, it may be that is more suitable. Try plugging both sets of numbers into the calculator at and see which one gives you the better speeds. For the towers, with Duet WiFi/Ethernet electronics my choice would be the 17HM19-2004S thatby Koenig - Delta Machines
One Nimble on order. Plus an adapter from shapeways. As for the steppers wich are preffered by the ones I linked or are there better ones I should get? And what about the stepper for the extruder, it seems it has a very high gear ratio, so I'm thinking it might due with one of the steppers I have lying around from my first kit, they are similar to these:by Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteVigilant I'm curious on how you are mounting all of your aluminium extrusions, Last time around I had plans on building a bit larger delta so I ordered a couple of the Metal Kossel 25000 Vertices and the extrusions as well. So I had that to start with now. I guess they never really took off in the community though.by Koenig - Delta Machines
Found this adapter: So it's looking like the Nimble is the way to go, any motor-recommendations for it?by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 You don't need to allow for both windings because when one winding is getting full current, the other winding gets no current. The current drawn from the PSU is much less than the current in the motor windings, because the stepper driver is in effect a buck converter. I believe both Flex3drive and Nimble have already be used with the Smart Effector. Both seems to need some sort of adaby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotetomasf Have you considered a remote direct drive such as Zesty Nimble? I can highly recommend it. I can go for something like that, there's also the FLEX3DRIVE but I can't find if either of them will fit on the smart effector.by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 QuoteKoenig Anyway, from what I gather both the wiki and the specifications of the motor I'm looking at says I need to count with 2 times the rated current times 0.85 for what is to be used as a maximum. No, you don't need that much power supply current. Read the wiki page that I linked to in my post. Yes, the rated rated voltage times the rated current would be the power developed inby Koenig - Delta Machines
Okay, before I go any further with the power, perhaps I/we should iron out wich steppers I should use. I'm looking at theese two: 17HM19-1684S and 17HM19-2004S Where the latter one have much higher inertia 82 vs 68 g-cm2 but also a lot less inductance 3mH vs 4.1mH I'm thinking 3 of either of these as axis motors. When it comes the the extruder I'm a whole lot more uncertain, on my last build Iby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotetomasf You may find this page useful: It was, thanks! At least I got the rated voltage part cleared out, it's the voltage drop over the winding, I'm guessing the rest of the energy will be taken up and cooled away by the stepper-drivers then... I'm an electrician and have basic knowledge about the electric happenings but I am a total novice when it comes to electronics, the printer I builby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 QuoteKoenig Sounds good then! A "LRS-150-24" is ordered it should be quiet since its fanless! I hope I have enough power with that, it delivers 6.5A and I'm counting that the motors will use something like 1.2A each wich leaves 1.7A to the hotend and electronics. See . Hmm, I just got to thinking now that 150W (6.5A) might not be enough. Looking at steppers they do have 2 phases, dby Koenig - Delta Machines
Sounds good then! A "LRS-150-24" is ordered it should be quiet since its fanless! I hope I have enough power with that, it delivers 6.5A and I'm counting that the motors will use something like 1.2A each wich leaves 1.7A to the hotend and electronics.by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotetomasf Hi. Fellow swede here. Conrad has a pretty good selection of power supplies. I ordered my last PSU from Elfa, but only because the model I wanted wasn't in stock at Conrad. As for stepper motors, I recommend OMC StepperOnline. They can ship most steppers from Germany, so you get pretty fast shipping and avoid customs fees. Thank you for your reply! Conrad seems to be using mostly Mby Koenig - Delta Machines
I built a delta a couple of years ago, then I upgraded it with my own printed parts and other stuff. But then one of the carriages of my own design decided to give up, and I didn't really have any other way of getting a replacement + I got my first kid... So the printer started gathering dust. But the other week I got an urge to either get rid of it or "fix" it so I started to look into things,by Koenig - Delta Machines
I see. Thank you for the clarification.by Koenig - Duet
I have been letting my delta sleep for a couple of years ( it had a breakdown and I just didn't feel like I had the time with a newborn...) and the other day I got a sudden urge to get it going again. So I've spent some days reading up about this this stuff and I see there's been a whole lot of development. One of the last upgrades I did to my printer was a Duet 0.6 and dc42's IR-sensor. I likeby Koenig - Duet
Quoteetfrench Misumi has them and the price seems pretty reasonable. Europeans can't shop from Misumi though..., unless you have a registered company.by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quoteteslalab2 I am just jog-ing the axis in pronterface. If I change the delta radius it makes the printer head move the incorrect distance, the effect it has on the parabola is negligible. I'll try using G1 tommorrow. EDIT: ok, It still moves in the parbola shape if I use G1. Maybe I got osmthing messed up in the firmware, should I switch to repetier? Did you ever check dc42's suggestion?by Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteSlowFoot QuoteCaptain_Tim Anyone who cut their diagonal rods to be around 250mm, what was your build size? I'm almost at the part where I need to cut them, and I'm deciding if I should go with the recommended 230mm or go for a 250mm I made mine 250 mm total length but my build is not finished yet. My goal is to get a higher lowest angel on the arms to reduce the impact of build errors and aby Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteKevinS Thanks. That's actually a big help. I found that by pushing a digital caliper down with the effector, these need to be around 81.25. It seemed to me the height was also too big but my cal object is only 10mm high so any error might be in the "noise floor" FT usually send 20 tooth pulleys, so 80steps/mm should be correct. If you want to be extra certain, count the teeth. (assuming itby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotehacker Quotetheda1 1. I have a question regarding Printing time. Printed a mobile phone stand took about 2 hours. now I am using Cura because Pronterface does not want to work (AGAIN) now it takes about 5 hours + to print the same thing. I have played with a few settings but nothing much makes a big difference I have gone to Default in Cura still slow. 0.1 Layer Height, 2mm shell 100mm/s priby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotebianchi Guys, How can I know my object position on the printer ? Where is (x,y,z) (0,0,0) of my object on the printer ? How can I find it in my gcode ? Any experiences or ideas ? Thanks Not sure what you are after, but preview your gcode in the slicer or place the object to that you have 0.0.0 at one of the corners.by Koenig - Reprappers
Quotelolocaledo n8bot, about coast parameter in S3D, what is the purpose ? I user S3D and I've never used this parameter It is one of the main reasons I use S3D, haven't seen such an option in another slicer. It's a function that stops pushing filament through the nozzle before the end of a printing move, so the last bit is filled with what oozes out of the hotend relieving the pressure in theby Koenig - Delta Machines