Does anyone have the thermistor values for a Mosquito Hotend 300 degree thermistor I can plug in? Thanks.by Viper97 - Duet
Quotescottybfg Im going to say you have more than one problem. To me it looks like over extrusion, an uneven bed and maybe printing too hot or not enough cooling I'll add that the printer isn't level on both z-axis or properly calibrated any more.by Viper97 - Reprappers
That depends on the firmware you are using. Is it Marlin?by Viper97 - Printing
There is no polarity on the heat cartridge or the thermistor (heat sensor). However, the cartridge you select is dependent on you're power supply. There are 24V and 12V models. Since the part you ordered is 12V and the power supply is 12V, the only thing I can think of is that actual wiring of the cartridge might be defective, the thermistor may be needed to be updated in the printer firmware toby Viper97 - Printing
There is a video on Youtube (search Geeetech MK8) that shows how they do it at the factory. (Set correct nozzle lengths.) As for the carrier, don't have an answer for that one.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Have you set the voltage on the drivers?by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Ah... Not sure if you can import settings from the EEPROM but you said it had files on the SD Card. Repetier does support RADDS so heck, give it a shot. Worse case scenario you reprogram with Repetier.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteHH88 Yes i have a prusa i3. The radds board is replacing a melzi board that didn't work. Can i take the configuration file for the melzi board upload it to the repetier firmware tool and just change the motherboard? I personally don't think so. There is a version of marlin made specifically to support the Melzi board. I don't think it is cross compatible. I would suggest starting out with tby Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
First - I take it this is for a Prusa I3 or the like? Was the RADDS board replacing the standard Arduino/Ramps board? Or some other type of board? Pretty much for me with the RADDS/Due combo it acts just like the RAMPS 1.4 and Arduino set up. I could probably attach my configuration.h later today when I get home and that might get you started. You'll have to make the changes for hot end, thermiby Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
What type of thermistor is it? That's the key, once you locate the thermistor type you can adjust Marlin to reflect that type in the configuration.h file.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Not sure where you got your files so I'd start you off here:by Viper97 - Reprappers
Here's what I've put together: Geeetech Acrylic Prusa I3 Pro B first impressions Frame: Acrylic, yes, it is 8mm as measured by my Vernier caliper. Biggest problem was removing the backing from the acrylic. On my printer all the acrylic parts fit well, there was no need for adjustment, filing or cursing (which given my propensity to curse was refreshing). Everything fit well and assembled easiby Viper97 - General
I believe it is identical in build to mine with a few exceptions. 1. Dual extruders running through a Cyclops clone 2. Frame design where the LCD fits is different. 3. The Y-carriage is different. (Mine is almost solid) 4. The heat bed is two pieces, the heater and an aluminum plate. 5. Linear bearing holder is screwed in rather than zip-tied like mine. 6. Looks like they used a 30 amp 12V powerby Viper97 - General
QuoteSuggy Antone know the difference between the pro b and the pro x? The pro b has metal x carriages, while the x has acrylic carriages and SCS8LUU bearings. Oh and an aluminum heatbed.by Viper97 - General
QuoteSuggy QuoteViper97 I picked up this one and it arrived last night. Opened it up and found that it was well packed. There were directions but they were mostly a parts listing and not assembly directions. No problem, the Geeetech Wiki has assembly instructions in PDF form so I downloaded it. I did take a look at the acrylic parts and they seem to be cut well with no sharp edges. Mine came wiby Viper97 - General
Quoteaudiobull Definitely keep us updated. It would be good to know how good they are I'll post a link to it on youtube if I get creative otherwise I'll just update here. (Trying to decide if I want to expose myself to the world.)by Viper97 - General
I picked up this one and it arrived last night. Opened it up and found that it was well packed. There were directions but they were mostly a parts listing and not assembly directions. No problem, the Geeetech Wiki has assembly instructions in PDF form so I downloaded it. I did take a look at the acrylic parts and they seem to be cut well with no sharp edges. Mine came with the all metal X-axisby Viper97 - General
I'm running a RADDS 1.5 on a Due... picked it up for about $50.00... works great.by Viper97 - Reprappers
Quotedc42 The always on fan connectors are wired direct to the power input, so they are not controlled by software at all. Thanks DC... I thought that was how it worked. Sometimes when it doesn't work the way I thought it did... I tend to delve deeper into the mystery than I should. I'll review my connections again or choose the alternate method.by Viper97 - Duet
I'm hooking up a hot end constant fan as well as two 50mm fans for cooling the bed. I have them plugged into the always on fan sockets but it turns on they don't power up. Hmmm... I've checked the wiring of the fans and all is well there. Positive to positive and negative to negative. Then I thought... oh there must be a M code to turn on the fans... it appears I found the PWM fan M code but nby Viper97 - Duet
Quoteblro I need to replace the thermistor on the extruder. The thermister I ordered does not have a connector on the board end. My question: is there polarity on the two wires?, i.e., does it matter how it plugs into the board +/- No.by Viper97 - General
I like that tutorial... subbing.by Viper97 - Delta Machines
The PS Steel can take the same extruders/plastic parts as a I3 Rework. I'm currently using those same parts on my machine (while printing upgrades for my Delta). I sourced the Plastic (ABS) parts from ebay.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Food is a health risk, walking in the world is a health risk, breathing is a health risk. Frankly I think as a society we are paranoid but then again I look at the tap water, the sanitary conditions of the world, the pollution and many other things and I think, regardless of what happens I'm going to die so the heck with it. Enjoy!by Viper97 - General
Quotew3drk @flyway97, thanks for the BOM, that is at least a little helpful. I must admit I find it ironic you're afraid of the SBASE being copied in an inferior way, is that not what the SBASE is of the official Smoothieboard? Folks are purchasing this controller thinking it's supported by Smoothieware when it's not, then left to fix your issues with switching noise, analog ground, and now tby Viper97 - Controllers
Right now it looks like you're printing albeit a little on the rough size. Have you calibrated the printer? Leveled the print head to the bed? These are important steps that need be undertaken if they haven't already. Then things like what type of material are you using (PLA or ABS or another type) heat bed temp settings, hot end temp settings and all are another part of the equation. There'by Viper97 - Printing
Quoteviper412 I get the error "Serial Port 'COM3' already in use. Try quitting any programs that may be using it." I've done everything I could think of, I checked the port and Repetier Host finds the board and connects, however the Repetier slicer does not find the port. Also when I try and use the Arduino IDE to flash the firmware to the Melzi 2.0 control board This happens even on a fresh resby Viper97 - General