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Anything related to printer controllers not being Duet, RAMPS or Sanguinololu: microprocessors, motor and heater driver circuitry, gEDA/KiCAD issues, soldering tips, etc.
Re: need help making a hotbed controller work - 6 years ago
QuoteDust Also if your using a separate power supply, and it has a variable output, crank the voltage up. Most cheap power supplies have a little variable resistor near the screw terminals. I tend to set these to 13.5v It makes a huge difference +1. I do this on mine as well, it makes quite a difference.by nebbian - General
Re: Underslung Delta Effector - 6 years ago
You can't see it, but there's a 30mm heatsink fan on the far side. I'm getting around +- 0.01mm repeatability on the Z probe. That's enough for me, and ensures that the nozzle is completely rigid with respect to the effector. Regarding ball joints vs traxxas, I've found the traxxas to be well good enough for me. They are small, light, and I haven't seen any slop since I installed them (a coupby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Underslung Delta Effector - 6 years ago
Here's mine: I think it fits almost all your criteria, except for the cooling fan setup. Maybe it will give you some ideas.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: LPC port of RepRapFirmware - 6 years ago
Good stuff Sdavi, I look forward to hearing about your progress :-) For my mind, the Re-Arm is the perfect board to upgrade from RAMPS. It basically works the same as we're used to, and if we could get RepRapFirmware working then that would truly be excellent bang for buck.by nebbian - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Re: About those metal corners - 6 years ago
To be fair, my corners were for 2020, not 2040 so they're obviously a different product. However I'm very happy with them. And no I don't work for RobotDigg, why on earth would I want to?by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: LPC port of RepRapFirmware - 6 years ago
Excellent work sdavi! Personally i'm not interested in any form of networking, just a 128x64 display with control knob, and reading files from the removable SD card would do me fine (just as my printer has always worked with RAMPS/Marlin, RAMPS/Repetier, Re-Arm/Smoothie and Re-Arm/Marlin 2.0). The RepRapFirmware page says that it is starting to add support for 12864 displays, does anyone know hby nebbian - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Re: Smaller Duet? - 6 years ago
Thanks DC42. I wish I could find the page I saw earlier. The page you linked to says: 12864 mono graphics display (firmware support pending) This display usually has an SD slot on it. Will RepRapFirmware handle SD cards that are inserted into this slot?by nebbian - Duet
Smaller Duet? - 6 years ago
I saw rumours somewhere about a smaller duet being released at some stage, that only had 4 stepper drivers, and support for the reprapdiscount full graphic controller (the monochrome ones that everyone else uses, with a rotary knob), this support would include being able to read files from the SD card slot. I've held off buying a Duet previously due to size and price restrictions, but this one wby nebbian - Duet
Re: Re-ARM from Panucatt - 6 years ago
It turns out that this was related to an auto update that the compiler did behind my back. It still compiled the file, but the resulting binary was buggy to the point that the board would not boot. I got it all back up and working by downloading the very latest Marlin 2.0 branch, recompiled and saved directly to the SD Card. When it was inserted into the Re-Arm, it all came back to life. Phby nebbian - Controllers
Re: Re-ARM from Panucatt - 6 years ago
I've gone back to Marlin on my Re-Arm. It was working really well, up until I updated the firmware to enable advanced pausing, and bricked my boardby nebbian - Controllers
Re: About those metal corners - 6 years ago
My corners from RobotDigg were as spot on as I could measure. I rebuilt my mini delta with them, and it now doesn't need any form of mesh correction, it just prints flat all over the bed. Even if they are a bit out, you can work it out as really every vertex should be treated like a pin joint.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Piezoelectric disks for Z contact detect and bed levelling - 7 years ago
I've just gotten around to drilling out a piezo, soldering some pads on, and connecting it up to my board. (Yes it's taken a while ) How would you recommend I modify this: to mount the piezo so as to trigger reliably? btw I'm very impressed with the sensitivity of this thing, just a light finger tap on the piezo makes the signal light flash. That's really impressiveby nebbian - General
Re: Small, light, effective fan shrouds for popular hotend designs - 7 years ago
If anyone wants the STL for the cooling shroud I posted earlier, it's in the attached files.by nebbian - General
Re: Removing vertical lines on prints - 7 years ago
Changing the steps per mm value will do that. You probably didn't do a cube at 0.202 layer height (at your old 80 steps/mm value). If you had, you would probably have seen the tree ring U shaped pattern. Changing the steps/mm down will have the same effect, when you print at 0.2mm layer height. It's all making sense to me now.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Removing vertical lines on prints - 7 years ago
QuoteSJN Strange. I just removed the chinese heatbreak, and 0.4mm nozzle, and installed original E3D parts instead......now I also get the wood grain texture in my pints.....could not replicate that before at any layer height with the old nozzle Printed at 0.25mm 0.4nozzle That... does not compute. Gosh. Very interesting data point.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: New delta printer impossible to calibrate with firmware - 7 years ago
Check your steps/mm value, and also measure your arm length between ball centres. One of them is out. I've seen this effect many times, when the wrong values are used.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Removing vertical lines on prints - 7 years ago
Interesting pictures, thanks for posting. I can see ripples and surface texture, but no moire. If you want to fix this then you need to pick a layer height that shows the U shaped tree ring pattern, as this makes it very obvious when you adjust something. I'm surprised you still have issues with TMC2100's. Perhaps your motors have a high or low impedance? Either way, going to 0.9 degree sby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: LokBuild, first impressions - 7 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD I recently tried a sample of 3mm PEI and I printed some ABS onto it with my usual settings 250 first layer bed at 115 and it bonded to it so well I had to cut it off, ruined the PEI sheet. So that stuff works but IMO far too well. Might definitely keep a thin (cheap) sheet for when you absolutely, positively have to get a part to stick no matter what but doesn't seem as convenient fby nebbian - General
Re: Small, light, effective fan shrouds for popular hotend designs - 7 years ago
Quotedrmaestro What happens if you give 12 volts to a 5 volts fan? Does it start rotating 2 times faster? I'm not sure about any of the other ones, but the sunons seem quite happy at 12V, they push out quite a bit of air for their size. You can throttle them down to less than 10% duty cycle and they just tick over slowly. Never had one fail on me, whereas I've had many of the normal sleeved bby nebbian - General
Re: Small, light, effective fan shrouds for popular hotend designs - 7 years ago
They run fine on 12V, no issues there at all. I've been running them for over a year, never had a failure with them. I really think they're great DJDemonD has recently got some, perhaps he could chime in?by nebbian - General
Re: Small, light, effective fan shrouds for popular hotend designs - 7 years ago
QuoteOrigamib I've given up on fans for now.... I never found a decent solution other then a 50mm blower fan. Anything smaller seems awfully designed, or ridiculously expensive. The 40x10mm fans I hooked up are good, but they still add considerable bulk to the hotend that I'm not happy with. The design of the fan is such though that they have a lot of backflow and I wonder if they even push as mby nebbian - General
Re: blocking and jamming problem when hot end on - 7 years ago
Check the wires to your heater cartridge. Ensure that they are not touching each other, or the metal heat block.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: RIP large Kossel and Rostock deltas - C beam Deltas are next big thing - 7 years ago
I think you could mount dual linear rails on there, which would give you a lot of torsional rigidity on the carriage. This is because you're not depending on the distance between bearing surfaces on the one bearing (12mm for MGN12 I think), you're depending on the distance between rails (60mm). I have noticed that my robotdigg carriages do have a tiny bit of slop. For a bigger, faster delta itby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: RIP large Kossel and Rostock deltas - C beam Deltas are next big thing - 7 years ago
Looks interesting! How do you mount linear rails to this? Is this meant for dual linear rails, or wheels?by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Piezoelectric disks for Z contact detect and bed levelling - 7 years ago
I received my sensor board today, thanks Moriquendi What I didn't realise was how professional, and small, this board is! It's tiny! Nice silkscreening, descriptive pin labels, beautiful product. Just when I thought my hotend was perfect, this comes in the mail. Yeah thanks. Ha ha Now I've just got to figure out how to mount a piezo element on my hotend. Where can I find the docuby nebbian - General
Good 30mm heatsink fans 
- 7 years ago
I've been steadily working through eBay, buying 30mm x 10mm fans, putting them on my hotend, being disappointed, and buying another brand. The problem with most of them is that they use sleeved bearings, which means that after a couple of months they start to wear out, and sound really bad for the first 30 seconds after a cold startup. Now I've found one that seems to work really well, it's tby nebbian - General
Re: Piezoelectric disks for Z contact detect and bed levelling - 7 years ago
Could you put a high pass filter into the board? Like a capacitively coupled section? Would only be a couple of extra components, and might get around the very low speed issues that are caused by temperature. Just an idea.by nebbian - General
Re: Removing vertical lines on prints - 7 years ago
Quoteswoozle Conclusion: you can play with layer heights but the real fix is to add the diode mod or change the decay mode (if you can). That's excellent data, swoozle! Really nice before and after pictures. It's great to have another way of removing moire. Did you use four normal 1N4007 diodes on the lines that needed it, or did you use a TLSmoother on it? I think the TLSmoother uses dualby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Re-ARM from Panucatt - 7 years ago
QuotePheneeny Are you guys having any issues with PID tuning and hotend temperature control? I have a genuine e3d V6, and on Marlin my hotend temperature control was spot on. On Smoothie, after running Autotune the same way I did on Marlin, I'm having pretty bad temp control. On initial heatup, the temperature always overshoots by 10-12 degrees, then takes a few minutes to come back down. Then aby nebbian - Controllers
Re: Small, light, effective fan shrouds for popular hotend designs - 7 years ago
Great minds think alike! I do like using the cube design for mounting things around the heatsink. Unfortunately this design didn't work for me, as the distance between the effector and nozzle was too great (delta, effector tilt, etc). I redesigned it without putting this into service. The 30x10mm Sunon fans are excellent: small, light, and push a lot of air.by nebbian - General