QuoteIBaz No glass. Just the heatbed under the aluminium build plate as per the OEM setup. I've just added a PEI sheet to the top of this originally thinking the original probe would have enough distance to read through the PEI but it didn't. This is why I went for this probe but it just doesn't seem to sense correctly. For best results, the sensor needs to sense the reflection from the top surfby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you useimg glass? And if so. What's under the glass? Just the heated bed? Or the aluminum bed?by Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
what your going to be looking for is this here: // Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup). #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of thby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
It is plug and play. There is not any special you have to do to get the sensor to work, - goes to - , + gose + and Signal goes to Signal , when wiring up to your bored. Simple as that. Just like the stock sensor. However.... The very first thing you need to do once you have the sensor operational on your printer is to type in m119 in a command line and verify rather or not the Z end stopby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
You bet man ! The idea in backing it off is to insure that you get a very tight fit against the heat brake and nozzle. Cause as you know you can't turn on the heat brake with out fear of twisting itby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
....actually let me get straight to the point, when you have leaking heater block . More often then not means you nozzle isn't fully seated against the heat brake. There should not ever be a gap between the nozzle and the heat brake. This will not only cause a leaking heater block but also increase your chances of a jam. My suggested procedure would be screwing in the tip to the heater blockby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
My first question to you would be is your nozzle or tip tightened against the heater block?by Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
for whats its worth, im using a heater block from a e3d clone, had extra parts laying around I like it a lot better cause its smaller and the way it clamps on to the heater cartage is much much better then the stock one it came with i allso moded the heat brake so that i can run the inner from the tip all the way to the gear from the motorby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
Here she is up and running on marlin 1.1.0-RC7 "Jittery Jedi"by Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
An alternative to the factory sensor, especially for those that want to print on glass. I have this sensor on my other printers and it works Flawlessly. It's a plug and play. The only thing will probably have to do is invert the in endstop signal.by Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello. I have just got one of these touch screens. And the problem with it is under the images it's all in Japanese. Would someone kindly give me a step by step on changing the images please. Thanks in advance, wesby Wes78 - Controllers
Hi everyone. Im looking for some input about Horizontal Resolution, Is there an ideal resolution for 3d printing? I know smaller microns is better but at some point there makes little differnce to go 'really' small, So whats a good all around micron Horizontal Resolution should i shot for when planing a build for a printer? I have a corexy machine im working on with 16 tooth pulleys with, rightby Wes78 - General
QuoteAx QuoteZurking Hi Ax, thank you for your reply I really do appreciate you taken time to help. Apologies for the confusion, I was struggling to get the orginal standard bed firmwaren(Gary N. McKinney's prusa firmware) to compile in the version of Arduino., but his large bed firmware does compile and i dont get any of these issues (its just everythings not centered) I am still very confuseby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
hey Ax do you have a copy of marlin 1.1.0-rc7 edited for the migbot? I see lots of nice improvements In RC6 and RC7 seeing as im building back my migbot just as well upgrade the firmware tooby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZurking Hey Guys, I've bumped into a little issue, i've installed Ax's firmware 1.1 - marlin 1.1 (Standard size) onto my printer. Tweaked the Zoffet but my prints are coming out like this; Its asif the printer has just stopped printing the layers. I've tried; -Printing from SD card instead of USB -Slicing the model again with Cura -Re upload the firmware Now this is where it gets weirdby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
On a side note... I recommend anyone with integrated stepper drivers to get you a set of these. not only will they prolong the life but you can push your drivers a bit more when keeping them coolerby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteveaceonee QuoteAx QuoteveaceoneeIm trying to print this chess set in ABS for someone. It prints good until it gets to the top of the piece. can anyone shed some light as to what is going on? why does it print fine, then get all melty at the top? How can I fix this? Temps are 230 on the Hotend..110 on the bed. Infill 25% You have 3 choices, run cooling (Good ABS can take it) for the top, Loby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey guys Its been awhile since i posted in the thread, Since i bought the electron aka migbot a lil over a year ago now i have since disassembled it and scavenged parts to build my first diy printer, since that time ive build 3 other printers a fusebox a D-bot and a 3Rd and boy have a learned alot!! So the reason im posting this is cause i saved all my frame and printed parts to the migbot, anby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTaisiya I measured so the extruder is 1-2 mm up the board. then press on lcd screen prepare and home all axis. but when i send file to print it seems to adjust z axis like 5 mm above the board, which doesn't make sence where I can check this settings? Many thanks I see you not running auto lvling. Ive never messed with just using an end stop switch, i didnt see the point when auto lvliby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
Lol sorry. Yes I'm running 2 power supplies. One 24v for the bed and a 12v for every things else. The 12 and 24 volt side I'm referring to what's wrote on the heated beds some beds can run 12v or 24v some only 12v, the mk type of beds anyway. The difference between the 12 and 24 voltage. Is simply the amount it ohms at. They make the beds to run with certain ohms to volts soas you can run tby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
yeah should be. but i have one at 1.0ohm and another one at 1.5. so in other words 12v at 1. ohm pulls 12amps , 12v at 1.5ohm pulls 8amps ( and will seem like FOREVER to warm up) but at 24v.-> 24v @ 1. ohm pulls 24 amps. 24V @ 1.5ohm pulls 16amps always a good idea to ohm beds before applying power to them -just- to be safe. just want to put that info out there cause if someone new doby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
Did all 3 bed's ohm out the same? You will lose some power going thru the ssr tho. The only reason I would run an ssr off the same power supply as the rest of the printer is IF the bed will require more amps Then the board can handle putting out. (200watt silicone mat) I think its about 20amps max. -for everything- I too have dumped the alum plate with all my printers. With the glass rby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteIBaz As I'm getting sick of waiting over 20 minutes for my heat bed to get to 90 degrees has anyone successfully added a relay to the bed getting power straight from the power supply? I see that people are using solid state relays but having absolutely no experience can anyone suggest what to look for and how to wire this in? yup same here. i run my beds with 24v 2-3mins to hit 110c almostby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCAlleman Found this on Kickstarter today: Seems like it would be a good upgrade for the Migbot, thoughts? depends on what filament you print with and how much printing you do. there is wear on the brass with just pla but it takes a long time until a replacement is needed However if your printing with carbon fiber pla ( or any abrasive material) even glow in the dark definitely worth tby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
Im glad you got it going well enough to print with it, if memory serves me right its #1 thermistor setting witch is the stranded 100k so thats good. Defiantly------Defiantly get the wire changed out that needs to be on the top of the todo list for sure. I strongly recommend doing a pid auto tune with the new pids you have entered. think of it as a "fine tune" And the fan is only showingby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteuberjay Okay... think I might have found a possible culprit. I manually turned down the fan speed to ~ 200 out of 244 (using the marlin 1.1 menus) while the hot end temp was declining and had dropped from 197 down to 183. After changing the fan speed the hot end temp climbed back up ... it's now at 188. I think I saw somewhere maybe that someone was having issues with the stock fan shroby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotespinracing QuoteWes78 Do you live in the us? Yep, Florida. Kicking myself for not printing extra parts.... resisting doing a Ax and buying another! (Dont have a business need yet.. so cant justify to the wife) I will print you a replacment part if you like and mail it to you. i live in Oklahoma, wouldnt be a problem. From the github can you give me a link to or tell me what part you needby Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotespinracing Go to print parts for the leadscrew conversion.. BLAMMO spaghetti. My y axis stops working and spits out its belt. Needless to say.. I am going to have to repair the belt holder, and make it functional until I can get the leadscrew parts. But hope to have pics sooner rather than later. Do you live in the us?by Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
I second AX, the V6 lite is like 38 bucks dont get a knock-off for 20$ get the real deal I have gotten the lite and the full V6 here and LOVE them If you get a lined one or the V6lite just dont go over 240-245cMAX as that will damage the liner Fast shipping.by Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegotswrv QuoteAx QuoteWes78 Quotegotswrv @Wes78, Thanks for that! but that place is dangerous... Ended up deciding to swap out everything to 24v. Fill me in please, dangerous how? I haven't had a problem one with them or there stuff Think he means dangerous to his wallet.. Exactly! Went there to spend $5 left $50 lighter... Good share! OHH hahahaha yeah man i feel ya there !!by Wes78 - Prusa i3 and variants