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Anything related to printer controllers not being Duet, RAMPS or Sanguinololu: microprocessors, motor and heater driver circuitry, gEDA/KiCAD issues, soldering tips, etc.
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Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
David J, thanks for your response. Yeah I checked Zelogik link before I posted but could not find the part in the PFD files sub folder, still can’t. Could only find the STL file.. but maybe I’m just blind. Anyway it does not matter now with your explanation, thanks. My wish would be to convert some of the pieces into aluminum as I don’t think printed parts will hold up over time. But as a staby Amoniak - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
David J, awesome solution! I’m building the G&C myself, though taking a bit longer time then I expected... And I’ve myself thought about how it could be changed into using ALU parts instead of the printed ones, until now I didn’t know about Zelogik's design. Anyway I really like your “halfway” solution, and even if you mentioned you had some issues with it I think (with my metalworking knowlby Amoniak - CoreXY Machines
Re: European source of cast aluminum tooling plate - 9 years ago
Ah ok, that explain it. I wonder though how it will affect heating of the build plate? If you have a coat of PEI between the heater and ALU plate? I guess the intent is because you then can swap sides on your plate if one side gets warn. But if you anyway need to glue a silicone heater on one side its kinda useless for both sides to be coated?by Amoniak - Reprappers
Re: CoreXYNZ build - 9 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist I recently started rehabilitating a 3DS CubeX Duo printer. The cable chain that connects to the extruder carriage is one of it's nicer features. Instead of the traditional approach as you have taken it turns the cable chain 90 degrees and attaches it at the back of the frame. That makes for a large, graceful loop that won't cause a lot of wire flexing and allows shorterby Amoniak - CoreXY Machines
Re: European source of cast aluminum tooling plate - 9 years ago
QuoteJTa If you need it for heated bed I recommend this: They make PEI coated plates. I got 2 custom sized plates from them for my printers and they work just perfectly. Plates are flat and ABS/PLA/PETG stick like ever before and when the bed cools down the parts just float of. No more hassle with glues or tapes or hairsprays or whatnot. This is an awesome tip, thanks!! With the PEI, both sidby Amoniak - Reprappers
Re: European source of cast aluminum tooling plate - 9 years ago
Quotedougal1957 see in particular point 4 which suggests that they will ship outside the UK but that you may be liable for import taxes. Certainly dropping them an Email to check? Doug Yes I saw that too, certainly I will e-mail them. But since I tried both registrering and ordering as guest, in both ways delivery outside of UK was not an option.by Amoniak - Reprappers
Re: My heated bed tried to self destruct. - 9 years ago
Good that you post this, hopefully it can teach and prevent it from happening to someone else. Any way as pointed out, the origin of the heat is quite clearly seen to be from the screw terminal. In term of current capability for these they normally range from 5A and up depending on size. but certainly it's depending on the actual contact. You can also use ferrules to further improve contact. Fby Amoniak - General
European source of cast aluminum tooling plate - 9 years ago
Hi, I hope some know where to get cast aluminum tooling plate (like MIC 6 or equal) in EU. It seems very difficult to find a source in Europe… Only thing I found which has been mentioned here before is EcoCast from , but from what I can see they do not deliver outside of UK…. Thanks.by Amoniak - Reprappers
[Q] - MKS Sbase - Voltage and heatbed - 9 years ago
I’ve got some questions for you who are using, or have experience with MKS Sbase. What voltage are you running it at? And what motors (P/N pref) are you using? I’m thinking of running it on 24v, but I’ve read some concerns on motor noise on 24v due to the DRV8825. Any of you running your heatbed of it, if so what W/Amp is it? I e-mailed the maker and asked what the max amp it could sustain theby Amoniak - Controllers
Re: Heat mat voltage - 9 years ago
Well, in any case I'm not going to run the standard PCB heater + glass setup for many reason. I rather go my intend way of silicon heater on a milled and casted alu plate with PEI. Question really is how to do this considering different voltages in a safe, or safest way as this is of importance for me. If I were to go 24v, I think the best way would be to go all 24v. In that case I would probaby Amoniak - Reprappers
Re: Heat mat voltage - 9 years ago
Yeah, and that’s why I’m thinking of incorporating a thermal fuse to have some safety against thermal runaway of the headbed. And why I prefer to over size vs under size, I don’t want to end up having to wait 15-20 min for heating. That’s what I’m thinking. I can understand 0.9 degree more torque on deltas, but on a 200x200x200 Corexy I’m not sure it will have any effect. Secondly I can’t find 0by Amoniak - Reprappers
Re: Heat mat voltage - 9 years ago
Thanks for your replays. Yeah you are probably right, 400w is probably too much. But certainly 120w can’t be enough… Especially considering I’ll be heating a 5-6mm thick alu plate with it. 120w is what? Your normal MK/PCB heatbed? Also known to take ages to heat up, if reaching the set temp (100-105c) at all… And equals 0,3w/cm2 which below all recommended w/cm2 I could find. DD is using 0,45w/by Amoniak - Reprappers
Re: New MKS SBASE Smoothieware-compatible board from China - 9 years ago
Hi, You who are using this controller board, what stepper motors (P/N) and what PSU voltage are you running? I’m definitely considering this board for my build but I’m afraid about the high pitch noise some are describing when searching info on the DRV8825’s. Thank you in advanced.by Amoniak - Controllers
Re: 2.54mm crimp connectors for ramps - 9 years ago
Pleas don't take my word for it as I neither have or intend to get Ramps. But I think Ramps uses Molex SL connectors..by Amoniak - Reprappers
Heat mat voltage - 9 years ago
I’ve been contemplating over and over again, reading and searching for information regarding heat mat voltage. Basically I cannot decide what voltage heat mat I should use… I intend to use cast alu plate (~200x200mm) with a silicon heat mat. I want to have fast and stable heating, but Safety is a big concern. I was almost dead set on using a 230v mains silicon heat mat in the 400w range. But usby Amoniak - Reprappers
Re: Questions on SSR and PSU - 9 years ago
Thanks for your answer. Think I'll go ahead with the SSR-10DA. Don't see the point of going 25 which is then more then 10 times the necessary amps. Would it be a good idea to put a separate fuse for the heat mat? I'm thinking of having both separate fuse (2.5amp) and power switch for it. Good safety tips as well. I'm most definitely thinking about these aspect when building my printer. And I'mby Amoniak - General
Re: Cast tooling plate print bed flatness - 9 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist I can see two possible solutions. 1) build the Z axis solid so the forces applied to remove prints won't cause any problems. Use fully supported rails or linear guides and avoid cantilevering. 2) clamp thin aluminum plates to the tooling plate bed so you can remove the print from the machine easily. I like #1 always, and there's no reason you can't do both. A too thiby Amoniak - Reprappers
Connector for 220v@500W - 9 years ago
Hi, I'm looking for a good connector to use for 220v 500w. It needs to be 4 ping and male + female. Where one of them can be panel mounted. Should be fairly easy to connect / disconnect and small. //Thanksby Amoniak - Reprappers
Re: Cast tooling plate print bed flatness - 9 years ago
For my CoreXY build (the G&C) I'm seriously considering a cast aluminum plate with PEI as my build plate with a 220v 400w silicon heater. It just seem so superior to using what ever cheap option you use with the typical MK heatbed + glass. The only problem I see is that I wont be able to remove the build plate as with using a glass on top of whatever heating you use. Basically I'm worried thby Amoniak - Reprappers
Questions on SSR and PSU - 9 years ago
Hi, Firstly I couldn't find a more suitable subsection for these questions, if there is please let me know / or if admin could move the topic. I'm not very good with electronics especially in this kind of setup (3D printing and it's components) I'm building a CoreXY printer and I'm currently thinking of running a heated bed of the mains power (230v) To do this I'd need a SSR. The silicon heat mby Amoniak - General
Re: CoreXYNZ build - 9 years ago
Nice build! Awesome that you keep the thread updated with pictures. Questions related to the thermal fuse, what fuse are you using and how are you connecting it? I'm thinking of adding something similar to my own build. Thanks. BR//Amoniakby Amoniak - CoreXY Machines
Re: Introducing "Unobtanium" - 9 years ago
I really like your build Nosmo! Clean and nice looking. As I'm building this printer my self I'm definitely looking into your build of it as well. Would you consider to share how you secured the Titan extruder? And possibly an stl file of it?by Amoniak - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 9 years ago
So printing has begun, very exciting and I’m maybe 1/3 complete. It will take some weeks until I’m finished as I only print 1 or 2 pieces every other day or so. I’ve realized that I’ll blow my budget, which is ok but I’ll still try to be economical where I can. There are somethings I’m contemplating, and I’d like to ask your advice / feedback (forgive my inexperience in this). Power supply 12vby Amoniak - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 9 years ago
Thanks! Regarding extruder, I'm not sure yet what type I will go for... But I will definitely order the alu hotend plate though. I'll order som PLA and hope I can convince my colleague to use the company Zyyx printer off hours to print the parts. What would you recommend as primary layer hight, 0.2? (Think it's a 0.4 nozzle) I've made some rearrangements to what parts to print and also to whatby Amoniak - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 9 years ago
I'm trying to figure out what the minimum printed parts needed is to get this printer going. I've attached a picture of what I think those parts are. Am I missing something? Are all the red parts in the 123d cad file = printed parts? Thanks.by Amoniak - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 9 years ago
@filipeCampos Thanks, I value yours and others opinion and its starting to catch on. I went into this with a strict budget simply because I know how easy it is to just stretch it a little, then a little more and so on (I've already done it lol). But at the same time I do not want to spend time and money for something I already know is flawed. And I've found out that is a difficult balance. Whby Amoniak - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 9 years ago
@filipeCampos I've spent a few hours and read thorough this thread, I'm still undecided what printer should be my first. But I really like your design for several reasons, It look very rigid and robust. The printed parts seem simple to print (I hope I can convince the guy at work who's responsible for the Zyyx printer we have to let me use it. And with NO experience printing trying complex prby Amoniak - CoreXY Machines
Re: What CoreXY design to choose? - 9 years ago
Again, I appreciate all of your responses (even the negative ones, they at least give some perspective ) @filipeCampos Thanks! Your right! I suppose everyone starts somewhere, only time and experience will tell if this is something for me. I know my budget is low and cheapish, my intention coming here was simpel, make a choice for a existing design knowing it's limitation but being confident thaby Amoniak - CoreXY Machines
Re: What CoreXY design to choose? - 9 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist I suppose you're right. Why spend $40 on a cast bed plate that's flat, rigid, heats evenly, and prints stick, when you can spend $30 on a thin, flexible piece of aluminum and a piece of glass to try to flatten it? You saved $10! So what if you're going to be messing around for many hours over the life of the printer, trying to get prints to stick. Life is long, you haby Amoniak - CoreXY Machines
Re: What CoreXY design to choose? - 9 years ago
Quotelkcl QuoteAmoniak Let’s say I choose the SmartRapCore, would building it in a MDF box be a terrible idea compare to alu extrusions? i don't see why not. if you run it a bit quick, you'll get vibrations running through the MDF, but that's easily dampened with the right creative mindset. alu extrusion is used i think because you can get a good all-round view, and assembly is a leetle easierby Amoniak - CoreXY Machines
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