Quotebipsen Next upgrade - a 2.42" OLED display ? :-) I already have a 2.42" OLED working. However that one you link on FeeBay will not work. I have 2 and I've tried. They claim it's also I2C but nobody can seem to get that to actually work as I2C.by Twmaster - Controllers
And I am happy to report with some help from the folks on the dev team I have this OLED/Encoder/Beeper working on Repetier 1.0-dev I'll post the settings to configure this later this week once I can sit down and sort it all out into all the steps needed.by Twmaster - Controllers
That does solve it for me. Perfect! Some tweaking on the menu steps and it now works as I prefer. I've added the buzzer and need to complete the configuration of my Prusa-ish printer. This was a big hurdle to cross. I want to thank you for posting this project. Thank you for the kind help and also thanks to all who contributed to this. I really dig these little OLED displays and use them extensby Twmaster - Controllers
And I am happy to report it mostly works. The only real issue I have is with the encoder. You have to turn the thing three clicks to get it to move to the next position on the menu. The encoder also seems to work backwards from what I expected. But it now works. The rest I hope can be fixed via tweaking. Thank you again. I am grateful.by Twmaster - Controllers
And It compiles now. I downloaded the 1.1.x version and it's compiled. I have to go take care of some personal business and will upload the firmware to the board when I return and report the results. Thank you for your help.by Twmaster - Controllers
Still not compiling. But new errors. Arduino: 1.8.2 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" In file included from sketch/MarlinConfig.h:31:0, from /Users/Twmaster/Documents/Marlin/Marlin-RC/Marlin/Marlin.ino:37: Conditionals_LCD.h:28: error: unterminated #ifndef #ifndef CONDITIONALS_LCD_H // Get the LCD defines which are needed first ^by Twmaster - Controllers
Thank you again. After work I'm going to blow away my current Marlin folder and create a new from the Zipped file. I'll report back my results. I had the OLED working. Now to beat the encoder into submission.by Twmaster - Controllers
I was simply following the comments and code snippets in the thread. I am not a coder. (Although I wish I were) The example I was using is in the last post by ilo. As I think I said in my initial post I'm sure I am doing something wrong. Thank you.by Twmaster - Controllers
Ok. Fresh off the IDE.... Arduino: 1.8.2 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" In file included from /Users/Twmaster/Library/Arduino15/packages/arduino/tools/avr-gcc/4.9.2-atmel3.5.4-arduino2/avr/include/avr/io.h:99:0, from /Users/Twmaster/Library/Arduino15/packages/arduino/tools/avr-gcc/4.9.2-atmel3.5.4-arduino2/avr/include/avr/pgmspacby Twmaster - Controllers
Yes SSD1306 in Configuration.h (from the file) // // SSD1306 OLED full graphics generic display // #define U8GLIB_SSD1306 // Thank you.by Twmaster - Controllers
The first and most important mod is to add a MOSFET board to power the heated bed. I, like others, have burned up a Melzi controller hotbed channel. Now the replacement controller runs cool and the bed heats up faster. Also, check the X carriage ends that the rods slip into. Both on the kit I received were unusable. Thankfully the P802MA I bought was for the electronics and mechanical parts. I hby Twmaster - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm trying to get this working. I have the OLED working. Setup was a snap with the current version of Marlin. I connected an encoder as shown in the schematic. No joy. So I added the following lines to Conditionals_LCD.h: #define ULTIPANEL #define NEWPANEL After re-uploading the firmware I got a flashing screen. After some monkeying with the encoder I got the screen to change but would not alloby Twmaster - Controllers
TT are you using the original Melzi board on your P802? I'm asking because this auto-leveling stuff is confusing the daylights out of me. I've watched some YouToob videos and I just get more confused. The thing is I am not new to Arduinos and programming them so I can grok the changes needed to the config files for the firmware and I have no issues loading firmware either via the IDE or AVRDUDEby Twmaster - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSupermec Twmaster, first check for dry joints where the bed connector pins are soldered into the board. Check that the resistance connected to the gate of the bed mosfet reads correctly at 10K and that there are no dry joints associated with the soldering of the mosfet onto the board. Make sure that the bed power feed wires are correctly inserted into the connector and well tightened. For thby Twmaster - Prusa i3 and variants
Need help troubleshooting a heated bed issue. I assembled my P802M weeks ago and have been printing a lot of stuff. I finished a print and shut the machine off for the night. Next day I went to print another part and the heated bed will not heat up. I checked and the thermistor is working (I put my finger on it and watched the temp rise) I checked the power output at the terminals on the board anby Twmaster - Prusa i3 and variants
Thank you. I'll be looking for your updates.by Twmaster - Prusa i3 and variants
10K, Are you using the auto leveling or the standard Z stop? I just built the same printer and really would like to add auto leveling.My machine came with a Melzi and Repetier firmware. Looking at the Marlin FW. Also, that Chinese USB ASP can be reprogrammed to eliminate the SCK errors. Easy to do with your US programmer. I reflashed the 3 Chinese programmers I have. Now there's no error. Thaby Twmaster - Prusa i3 and variants
Found the problem. The Chinese assembler left out a part in the spring assembly on the extruder motor assembly. Now to fight with bed adhesion. Yay.by Twmaster - Prusa i3 and variants
Found the problem. The Chinese assembler left out a part in the spring assembly on the extruder motor assembly. Now to fight with bed adhesion. Yay.by Twmaster - Prusa i3 and variants
Having a problem here. I've got a new built Tronxy P802M Prusa i3 clone. I've tested the printer to verify it functions. Ran it without filament. Config: Repetier .91 firmware, Melzi 2.0 board. Trying to print from a gcode file made in Cura. Everything seems to work fine except it will not extrude. No idea how else to test this (sorry for being such a newb here) I look in the extruder menu andby Twmaster - Prusa i3 and variants
I realize many of these Chinese printer kits are all over the map on dimensions. A close friend has an Anet A8 that looks identical to the Tronxy P802m I have. But the spacing between the rods is not the same as my machine as on his. Could somebody with a P802 measure the rods distance cneter-to-center please? Thank you.by Twmaster - Prusa i3 and variants
Thank you for the info. I'm not new to Arduino/AVR hacking so tweaking the code is not outside my comfort zone. I was leaning toward the RAMPS setup but will look into the Duet WIFI setup. I'm not trying to do this build on the cheap. Quite the opposite. (Although I am not going to spend "stupid" money getting there.) I'm attempting to build a rock solid quality machine.by Twmaster - Controllers
I hope this is the right place to park this post as it's not about one controller.... (yet!) :-D I'm gathering parts to build an i3 based machine. I have several options for controllers. RAMPS, Saguinololu, Melzi and a mix of Arduino/CNC controller and other components. So far with all the reading I've done of late I'm not sure any of the three main controllers I've mentioned are any better orby Twmaster - Controllers