I think I might have found something. It appears that the spring steel sheet is lifting in some places when laying down the first layer and the bed is hot. When the bed is at room temperature the steel sheet doesn't lift. A while ago I noticed that the thermistor had come loose from the bed and was hanging a few mm below so the actual temperature of the bed was higher than what the thermistor wasby chrstrvs - Printing
Thank you for your reply, dlc60! The EEPROM has been cleared several times, so it's definitely not that =) I failed to mention what I have tried to fix this, which is taking apart the axes one at a time to see if it made any difference and also swapping back to the old parts, but there were no difference in how the first layer looked. After reading your answer I decided to take apart all axes atby chrstrvs - Printing
Hi! Sorry for the unclear subject, but I'm not quite sure how to explain my issue in a short sentence. So, I have a Prusa i3 Mk3S clone that was printing beautifully when I decided to build a Mk2.5S from scrap parts I had laying around. Since I had to order some new parts as well, I gave the new parts to my Mk3S. The new parts it got were linear rods, bearings, leadscrews, motors, hotend, 24V pby chrstrvs - Printing
I can’t think of anything else than that.by chrstrvs - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi! I’m trying to figure out how to be able to have a magnetic print bed and also keep auto bed leveling. I’m wondering why the PINDA probe on the Prusa i3 mk3 isn’t affected by the magnets underneath the mk52 heated bed. Does anyone know? Regards, Christianby chrstrvs - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all! I have ordered a RUMBA board to replace my RAMPS 1.4 because it has more functions. I have not received it yet, but I thought I'd start setting it up in Marlin. I wanted to set up auto cooling for the hotend, so that the fan comes on when the hotend temperature is above a certain temperature. I thought I'd use FAN 1 which according to the wiki is on pin 16, but looking in pins_RUMBA in Mby chrstrvs - Controllers
Quoteimqqmi It's just a c clamp. I measured using a dial indicator and found that it was warped on one side. I used two 2040 extrusions as bed support so it was strong enough to clamp on that and the side/middle of the bed. The rise was clamped down and bowed against the rise. Make sure not to over do it. After (removing the clamp) that the dial indicator gave better measurements. A clamp likeby chrstrvs - General
QuoteRoberts_Clif Quotechrstrvs So you have done a G29 and saved the values once, and these values are used with M420 instead of doing a G29 every time you print? This is correct! Sometimes I only have to level once a month. Unless the bed tension springs screws work themselves loose do to vibrations. Should add a rubber washer to help stop the Bed tension screws from turning -- Maybe help it frby chrstrvs - General
Quoteimqqmi A warp deviation of more than 0.15mm will make it really hard to get a first layer across the bed, even at a first layer height of 0.3mm regardless if you use auto bed levelling. I'd try to first level the bed as best as you can. Also make sure the bed can expand in the x and y plane. If it's fixed it will warp. Also make sure consecutive probing values are consistent. I've used shimby chrstrvs - General
QuoteRoberts_Clif I should also note When Using Marlin Bed Leveling, When Starting a print G28 will disable the bed leveling data unless you have Bed Leveling Command in the Slicers Startup G-Code. Using Bi-Linear Bed Leveling you can Save the Bi-linear Bed Leveling Data and Recall this data By Adding a " M420 S1" to the End of Slicers Startup G-Code. This is a My Startup G-Code G21 ;mby chrstrvs - General
Quoteimqqmi A warp deviation of more than 0.15mm will make it really hard to get a first layer across the bed, even at a first layer height of 0.3mm regardless if you use auto bed levelling. I'd try to first level the bed as best as you can. Also make sure the bed can expand in the x and y plane. If it's fixed it will warp. Also make sure consecutive probing values are consistent. I've used shimby chrstrvs - General
Hi! For some reason auto bed leveling isn't working as it should anymore on my reprap i3. I'm using a induction sensor and bilinear leveling on a 3 mm thick aluminium bed with a BuildTak sheet on it. The grid is 4 x 4 points. The problem is that if I set the z offset at X0, Y0 so that a piece of paper just slides underneath the nozzle, when the print starts, it prints way higher that it's supposby chrstrvs - General
QuoteMKSA Quotechrstrvs QuoteMKSA The hot spot (partially burnt track) is very close to the +12 soldering pad. In case of a short (whisker of solder ..) the +12 V touching this track, it would create this and may even burn away. The measured value for the heating track is OK. So most probably fine. The Al plate is isolated from the heating tracks. Did you connect to 0V/GND. Can you show how thby chrstrvs - General
QuoteMKSA The hot spot (partially burnt track) is very close to the +12 soldering pad. In case of a short (whisker of solder ..) the +12 V touching this track, it would create this and may even burn away. The measured value for the heating track is OK. So most probably fine. The Al plate is isolated from the heating tracks. Did you connect to 0V/GND. Can you show how the thermistor is installeby chrstrvs - General
Quotefrankvdh I wouldn't expect that the thermistor contacting the heat bed would cause a short bad enough to cause smoke, except that you might get bad temperature readings from the bed, which might cause your controller to overheat the bed eventually. Even if some other wire was contacting the bed, the thermistor wires are so fine that even if they did burn out, you probably wouldn't even notiby chrstrvs - General
QuoteSupraGuy 1.3 Ohms is reasonable for a 12V heated bed, that would be about 110W, drawing about 9A of current. A thermistor shorted to ground can do some weird things Shorted to power could do some other things, some of them very bad, like destroy your control board. Protecting from short circuits is a good thing, people should do that. I admit it, I'm an idiot. Instead of fusing the heat beby chrstrvs - General
Hi! I've used my reprap i3 for a few months, and although it has been a roller coaster of emotions, I am very happy with what it has become and how it prints. After being unused for a week or two a friend wanted me to print a part for him. While heating up the bed it started smoking. I quickly pulled the plug out of the socket. Upon closer inspection I noticed that a bit of the paint had disappeby chrstrvs - General
I just might have gone and solved it! I tried homing the X axis with the endstop triggered, i.e I manually pressed the endstop, and then the X axis would move in both directions. I tried this for the other two axis and it worked there as well. I reversed the logic of the endstops in Marlin and voila! It works! Now M119 says triggered when the endstops are not triggered, and open when they are triby chrstrvs - Prusa i3 and variants
I did some more testing and all of a sudden where I think that 0, 0, 0 is, ie when the nozzle is on the left corner of the bed closest to me, so the bed itself is moved away from me, so did Pronterface. When i sent M114 it said "X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.00 E:0.00 Count X:0 Y:0 Z:0". I thought that that was pretty cool and moved the X axis 1 mm to the right. M114 said "X:1.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.00 E:0.00 Count Xby chrstrvs - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteveRoy Get the direction of the motors working first, then the end-stops. Sounds like the X motor wiring is backward I like to make all the end-stops MIN and use this for the X end-stop switch mount: I did as you suggested and put the X axis endstop on the left side, so min endstop. Since I don't have a functioning 3D printer to print a endstop holder with, a ziptie will have to do forby chrstrvs - Prusa i3 and variants
I was initially running 1.8.5, but updated to 1.8.7 yesterday. You can find the files attached. I haven't touched or even looked in Configuration_adv. Very kind of you to test on your own printer!by chrstrvs - Prusa i3 and variants
I'll attach a picture of one of the stepper motors. They are all the same brand and model. The jumpers are there. Three per driver. The drivers are A4988. All parts on the printer are from China. I tested the Ramps test firmware again which made all motors go back and forth very nicely. Also I want to thank you for taking the time to help me out!by chrstrvs - Prusa i3 and variants
Yep, that's how I look at it. I'll attach a picture of it as well. The only difference that I can tell between mine and the one in the picture is that I have my Y endstop on the back of the machine.by chrstrvs - Prusa i3 and variants
So I did some more testing today. The setup is as follows: X endstop set to max. X homing direction set to 1. Y endstop set to min. Y homing direction set to -1. Z endstop set to min. Z homing direction set to -1. Software endstops disabled for testing. With this the printer acts as follows: X homes in the right direction, but movement is inverted. So that when I press - it goes to the right andby chrstrvs - Prusa i3 and variants
Yeah, I know. I would unplug the motors first. Yes, I am sure that I set X_HOME_DIR to 1, not -1. Pronterface says: x_max: open y_min: open z_min: open when all endstops are not triggered. I downloaded the latest Arduino, 1.8.7. This made no difference. Edit: I noticed that I had a very old version of Pronterface. I updated this to 1.6.0, but this didn't any difference either.by chrstrvs - Prusa i3 and variants
Ah, okay, got it! The Y axis that is. I tried the test code and all five motors moved back and forth, back and forth, so that's good! I wonder what's causing this. Do I have to manually, with my hands that is, move all axis to the endstops before I power on the printer or something like that?by chrstrvs - Prusa i3 and variants
I did as you suggested and set the X min stop to be max and changed it physically on the Ramps board. Now the X axis only wants to move to the left, -. Also when homing it moves to the left, even though the endstop is on the right. If I try to make it move to the right, +, towards the endstop nothing happens. When I tell the Y axis to move home it moves towards the back of the printer, as i shoulby chrstrvs - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all! I'm new this whole 3D printing thing, but did quite a lot of research before I decided to build my own Prusa i3 rework. I just got it together yesterday and I'm having some issues when trying to move the motors manually in Pronterface. The X and Y axis can move towards the endstops, i.e. + and when I press the X and Y home buttons the axis moves towards their home positions. When they hiby chrstrvs - Prusa i3 and variants