Quotethe_digital_dentist It looks like it should work just fine. It's like using 3 screws with two guide rails. Put the guide rails near two of the belts/screws and let the cantilevered end of the bed be supported by the third screw/belt. Are you describing option "A"? Would option "B" be any better? I was planning on using only the three belts moving linear bearings on rails, and using nby DanL - CoreXY Machines
Not sure if this is a hijack or a valid entry in this thread...let me know. I have an FT5-2 printer with a 2-screw, 4 linear guide-rod vertical drive Z setup. It prints 0.2mm layers more than meeting the quality I expect. I now have a second used FT5-2 that needs the mods I did on first one, but I want to go to a belted Z drive on this one, per Rehorst approach. I need to research the details,by DanL - CoreXY Machines
Here are the picsby DanL - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Finally tested the x-axis double linear guide idea to stabilize the wobble of the print head. Again, did this not based on the conclusion that it was the best approach, but because I had an extra "low quality chinese" rail on hand. I made up the new mounting brackets from aluminum angle. The new extruder mounting also brought the nozzle upward toward the rail, decreasing the suspended length anby DanL - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Thank you. I've made up a new mount to test....option A. Surprisingly, it slides very smoothly after some tweaking of rails. Need to test at elevated chamber T, then will attach belt and test print. Will post observations. I will be looking for a high quality linear guide for the X when I get more time in November. I'm finding that I like to tweak the printer as much as actually printing.by DanL - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Digital Dentist....Mark R.... Just realized you are one and the same....another DUH on my part. Hit your blog on this topic without realizing the duplication Sorry.by DanL - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotecozmicray It appears your designs were a forgone conclusion? Will you be milling / printing your own brackets? Yep E3D Titan. Geez....sharing my thoughts on options...not foregone conclusions. Design options I show use cheap, simple 1.5" x 1/16 aluminum angle. Drilling a few hole patterns is all that's required, so easy to test different approaches. Will try different approaches thby DanL - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotethe_digital_dentist ...Have you considered replacing the crappy linear guide with a decent one that doesn't wobble? I have two printers with single linear guides for the X axes and there's no wobble in either. I used high quality, Japanese-made linear guides bought via ebay for very reasonable prices (but probably slightly more than a crappy hiwin knockoff).... Duh....I should have thoughby DanL - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Bought an assembled Folger Tech FT5-2 printer with a custom extruder/hot end mount.....shown as "current" in the attachment. It introduces a bit of wobble at the nozzle. I want to minimize that wobble by adding a second linear bearing/rail. Three options I'm considering are shown as A, B and C in the attachment. What might be the best way to go... A, B, C? I'm thinking "B". Or another apprby DanL - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Thanks DC42. I see my error. I halved the V for each motor. But if current taken to 2 A, with 2.5ohms per motor, V drop per motor is 5V....above the motor V rating. Your explanation is clear.by DanL - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
If steppers are run in series, the voltage per stepper drops off - supposedly to half. But can that reduction be made up partially by increasing current for series steppers? (Assume the driver can deliver the current and that supply is 24V vs 12V) Applying Ohms Law - likely way too simplistically - to the following example: In parallel: 1A stepper, 2.5V, 2.5ohms (easy numbers to work with)by DanL - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Yes, same outlet...so common ground, same V. Just did edited Marlin upload from computer on battery...no ps on puter and everything was fine. This was the proverbial straw on the camels back....just ordered a Duet WiFi. My LCD is starting to freak out, too - jumbled text - so not hat tough a decision.by DanL - Controllers
Great idea, Dust. Just tried a USB charger. The LCD comes up clean...no errors and ready to go. So the problem is in my laptop...???? After the USB charger power-up, i tried hooking up my laptop via USB again and no error message! The laptop was on battery only. Then I disconnected the USB and plugged in the 'puter to its PS. Hooked up the USB to the printer and: ERROR message. Disconnectedby DanL - Controllers
Problem: When I print directly from the LCD, all temperature indications and control work and printing is normal. But as soon as I connect my laptop thru USB, the LCD flashes "MAXTEMP BED Printer halted Please reset". I am using Marlin and Simplify3D. This problem just popped up when I tried to reflash Marlin with some speed and acceleration changes. Again, everything on the printer works perby DanL - Controllers
When I run "Extrude 100" from the 2004 Smart Controller Panel, I get a filament feed of exactly 50mm. That consistently results in excellent prints. But why do I need to use 50mm as the target rather than getting 100mm? Hardware setup is Titan extruder (3:1 ratio), 1.8 stepper (200 steps), 1/32 step driver, MKS 1.4 board/Marlin. Marlin extrusion settings: steps:829 (to get 50mm exactly from "Eby DanL - Firmware - Marlin
Just getting ready to install these drivers...but still a question about the Vref....maybe I'm being really dense here.... From the Polulu site: For the TB67S249FTG, current limit = VREFĂ—1.25 AV. So Vref = current limit / (1.25 AV) Polulu gives an example that calculates out as simply Vref = current limit / 1.25.... the AV term doesn't seem to be in the calculation. So what is thaby DanL - General