The RAMPs board will only draw what current (amps) it requires so as long as the power supply can deliver more that the 5A you want no problem but make sure you use the correct cables because there could be 12V +ve and 12V-ve If you have a atx power supply I think the colours of the cable are yellow for 12V +ve and black for the 0by rcs - General
Have a look here and read through some of the build logs.by rcs - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
If you have an air gap you can wrap a little bit of alli foil (kitchen type) around the resistor but be careful that you don't short the end wire to the alli block. As Tmorris9 says do not try and cut into the resistor as that will enable it to short to the block.by rcs - General
With the V4 Hotend I put a bit of G code in the start code so as to pick up the Z about 3mm and then put it back down when it is over the glass this stops you breaking it if it catches the glass on the bed. I did break one as well hense the Gcode. Arcol keeps all the spares.by rcs - General
I have used the V3.1 and the V4 with the V3.1 no cooling fans are required to keep the hot end cool. With the V4 a cooling fan is required when using PLA and it is advised to use one with ABS I have had no troubles at all with either. With the V4 you have to be careful as it is very fragile (could bend) with the very thin tube between the nozzle and the heat sink. I have bent it once when a caby rcs - General
That is the one that I use as it seems to be a nicee clean oil.by rcs - General
I use a 12V relay (with a diode across the coil to kill the back emf) to isolate the currrent to the heated bed. But I only use bang bang for this. it works for me.by rcs - General
Here are two pictures one on a Prusa and the other on my version of Nopheads Mendel 90 I think you should be able to see the 3mm washers that I used to pack the bearing to get the belt to run true.by rcs - Mendel90
To get the belt not rubbing against the washers I find that if you slip a shim ie say a 3mm washer to tilt the bearing out or in as the case may be you can get it to run OK. I have stopped useing big washers to keep the belt on the bearing it is better to tilt (or cant) it slightly so that it runs true. I also put two bearings (side by side) together. by moveing the shim around the bearing it iby rcs - Mendel90
I use the drum attachment with emery paper on it. I have also done it in situ this way you do not nead a square end at the end of the flat as the grub screw only neads to be on a flat part to stop the rotation.by rcs - General
It is quite an easy job to put a flat on a shaft with a dremel.by rcs - General
I find that 2mm standard glass is fine even up to 130C I have even put abs juice at 100C with out problems.by rcs - General
I use a 5R and bolt it to the iiside of the atx case so that the case will disapate the heat from itby rcs - General
Or fit the bearing from either end, like if the bolt was threaded on both ends a bit like the new Arcul bolt. (his is hobbed not knurled).by rcs - General
I think that you can change the tip with the Arcol V3 or V4 as here I have the V3.1 and not had any problems with it.by rcs - Reprappers
I find that simple Bostik all pupose clear adhesive works fine.by rcs - Reprappers
I have never used a fan or had a hot end jam with the V3. Thanks for the info regarding V4 I think I might get one and try it as it is shorter than the V3 I take it that you aim the fan at the heatsink..by rcs - Reprappers
I have been thinking about the v4.... from Arcol does it really need a fan as the V 3 does not. I think that a lot of hotends will jam if you try and put over 3mm through them. In the UK the resistors and thermistors are available from RS. I use high temp silicone to fix the thermistor to the hotend.by rcs - Reprappers
I am using the Arcol V3.1 it is well built with good quality. I think the V4 is shorter in length but needs a fan.by rcs - Reprappers
Measure what Volts you are getting at the output of the ATX and at the bed, if you have a volt drop say only 10V at the bed then the cables supplying the bed are not big enough. most ATX supplies require a load ie about 5R power resistor on the 5V rail so that you can get the rated output on the 12V rail. You could also measure the R of the bed to see if it is too high.by rcs - General
I have built a Mendel90 when Nophead first published his ideas from his pictures I and a friend designed from scratch all the parts required with the help of his pics. I think this is a great design and is very stable. I built mine from 12mm MDF and used a router to channel the base and gantry to get a good fit, but that is not necessary as Nophead has shown. I think Nophead can print all the plaby rcs - General
Quotei am thinking of making another parallel circuit of nichrome wires which is connected in series to the existing one.. and hope it can double the output.. confused smiley If you connect another circuit in parallel to the first, the R will go up in value and the current will go down so the power output will be less. If iyour bed is pwered by 12V you will need a final R of about 1 ohmby rcs - General
Drill holes in glass !! I think it will always crack if the glass can not expand, as I understand it most people just place the glass on top of the heated bed aand hold it down with bulldog clips this way the glass can move a little on heating.by rcs - General
A 10k resistor is not variable. I think that you will need this as Justblair has stated.by rcs - RAMPS Electronics
The can be got here or most engineering supplies ie Brian Pope etc. I use silver steelby rcs - Wanted
Perhaps you might need a pot about 10K so that you can ajust the display instead of the restistorby rcs - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks Sound I have now installed the latest version of Marlin and tested again. The result is that it printed OK (I sliced the same stl) with no problem. I can only think that it was the firmware that caused it. Thanks again for all your hard work etc. and for the reply. So this is now solved.by rcs - Slic3r
I don't have any problems with 2mm picture frame glass even up to 130C, as long as it is heated evenly. I have never had any glass cracked through heating.by rcs - General
Hi Foshon: As the picture shows the part fails higher up the part with the .5 nozzle. The fill seems to be ok but the perimeter is missing I generally don't have any problems with any other parts. As I said this problem has been shown on 2 different printers but with the same firmware etc. I am going to try it with the latest version of Marlin and see if that will cure it. I can't do this unby rcs - Slic3r