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Anything related to printer controllers not being Duet, RAMPS or Sanguinololu: microprocessors, motor and heater driver circuitry, gEDA/KiCAD issues, soldering tips, etc.
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Mendel90/RUMBA/Marlin - Z-Axis too slow, X, Y work great - 9 years ago
Hi all - Mendel90 printer RUMBA controller w/A4988 Pololu drivers Marlin firmware Repetier software I have calibrated motor moves with configuration.h in the Marlin firmware, and set the RUMBA microstepping jumpers under each of the A4988s to be at '000' (single step). My calibration in configuration.h: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.7402*1.05,78.7402*1.05,200.0*8/3,760*1.1} // deby rtrahms - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Hardwiring E3D hotend fan to RUMBA 12V - 9 years ago
Hi all - I have a Mendel90 that I have upgraded with a RUMBA and E3D V6 hotend, and the fan that attaches to the hotend needs to be on all the time. The FAN0 and FAN1 connectors on the RUMBA are designed more for print cooling fans, and are not on all the time. Where on the RUMBA can I connect the 12V fan to have it running all the time? (BTW, I might hook it directly to the supply, but my supby rtrahms - Controllers
slic3r custom gcode - turn on fan as FIRST action? - 9 years ago
Hi all - I am using Repetier/slic3r, and have an E3D hotend with fan that I am controlling. I want to turn on the E3D fan right away *before* the hotend is enabled. There is a section for custom gcode for start and end, but the custom start gcode is executed *after* the hotend and bed have reached target temps. I have been manually editing the gcode after the slicing to provide the right order,by rtrahms - Repetier
Re: New E3D refuses to extrude - 9 years ago
Definitely NOT a dumb question with the E3D hot end!! I don't have it permanently wired to 12v (yet), but through Repetier manual control I have turned it on for the testing and verified that it is running the whole time. I thought that might be the issue too, but no go. Robby rtrahms - Printing
Re: New E3D refuses to extrude - 9 years ago
Hi all - Some answers to your questions - 1) Definitely not the extruder, because I am manually pushing (or attempting to push) the filament through with no luck. 2) The filament is making it all the way through, because it extrudes a *little*, then nothing. 3) The heat break theory aligns with the symptoms - the heat sink fins are very hot, which might indicate the heat break is not doing its joby rtrahms - Printing
Re: New E3D refuses to extrude - 9 years ago
Here is the E3D I purchased - they are located in China: Not sure how I can tell what the heat break material is. Robby rtrahms - Printing
New E3D refuses to extrude - 9 years ago
E3D 3mm/0.4mm 24V - NTC B2-100-3950-1 With injection-molded fan assy Mendel-90 with Greg's Wade extruder RUMBA controller with Marlin firmware PLA temp: 190 deg C ABS temp: 230 deg C In both cases (PLA and ABS), the hot end will not extrude, or starts briefly and then stops. Even with manually pushing filament into the feeder, it won't go at the temperature I read. Things I have tried: 1) Bumpby rtrahms - Printing
Re: What should the external temperature of E3D hot end be? - 9 years ago
Kafledelius - Yes, my first working theory is that the firmware is wrong. This thermistor came with the hotend as part of a kit I purchased on EBay, and is the following: Item:NTC Thermistor Model:B2-100-3950-1 R @ 25: K 100K-1% B25/50:K 3950-1% Element:Thermistor,type MJB2 I found this discussion on the forums for someone who had the same problem: This has some good suggestions which I willby rtrahms - Printing
What should the external temperature of E3D hot end be? - 9 years ago
Hi all - I have a RUMBA controller (Marlin firmware) on a Mendel90 printer, with an upgraded E3D V6 hotend. I was having some jamming-like problems printing with ABS, but my hot end thermistor (via Repetier) is reporting adequate temperatures for ABS (215-220 deg C). When I point an IR thermometer at the hot end, I get a temperature that is much lower - not 220, but more like 130 deg C. Thisby rtrahms - Printing
Re: RUMBA/A4988s w/24V result in motors working erratically - 9 years ago
The one-way behavior was due to some error (not yet determined) with the endstops. Taking the endstops off the board, the motion behavior is normal. So, looks like the main culprit was setting acceleration values in the firmware!by rtrahms - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Re: RUMBA/A4988s w/24V result in motors working erratically - 9 years ago
Next update.... The wiring was okay - I think. I adjusted the max acceleration and jerk values in the Marlin firmware downward, and now the motors seem to operate normally - in one direction. They still only move a little in the opposite direction! I have never seen this kind of problem before. Robby rtrahms - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Re: RUMBA/A4988s w/24V result in motors working erratically - 9 years ago
Okay, update on the troubleshooting for this problem. First, some info: 1) The motors and wiring on this printer (Mendel90 config) have worked with a Sanguinololu 12V system previously. 2) The motors and wiring have never been tried with a RUMBA configured with 12V instead of 24V. Given #2, I swapped out power supplies to see if 12V has the same behavior. It does - which means to me it hasby rtrahms - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
RUMBA/A4988s w/24V result in motors working erratically - 9 years ago
I am upgrading from a 12V power supply to a 24V power supply on my RUMBA system, and have a 24V E3D and heated bed. I use Repetier, and have tested the hot end and heated bed at 24V, no issues. I have Pololu A4988 motor drivers, and when I attempt to move any of the motors (X,Y, Z, E), I get erratic motor behavior, not at all what I expected. I suspect I am hitting some sort of current limitby rtrahms - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Re: Basic RUMBA start up question - 9 years ago
Hi all - I have been having a discussion with Geeetech about this board, and they are asserting that the RUMBA should only be powered up by a 12V supply. This seems counter to the spec, which states the RUMBA design can support 12-35V, with voltage regulation on-board. Does anyone have a RUMBA powered with a 24V supply? Any issues? Thanks, Robby rtrahms - Controllers
Re: Basic RUMBA start up question - 9 years ago
I tried PID_MAX - no real change. By setting it to half (127 instead of max 255), I get the HE0 LED to flash with the duty cycle. Still no voltage. Just to show what I am seeing on Repetier...by rtrahms - Controllers
Re: Basic RUMBA start up question - 9 years ago
Anything's possible I suppose. Not sure why that would affect the fan though. I have included a handy-dandy graphic to show what's what.by rtrahms - Controllers
Re: Basic RUMBA start up question - 9 years ago
I have more clues on the puzzle... Like I reported above, the green LED comes on for either the HE0 or FAN0 port when I enable them via Repetier. But unlike the heated bed LED, which is a solid green when enabled, these go bright green for a second, then out, then fade in to about half strength. Both LEDs have the same behavior. Thanks, Robby rtrahms - Controllers
Basic RUMBA start up question - 9 years ago
Hi all - I have a Mendel90 printer, and have swapped out my Sanguinololu (Sprinter firmware) with a Shiny new Rumba w/Marlin firmware, and have made all the updates to connections. I have a new 24V power supply as well, and motors and heated bed are working fine. My hot ends (he0, he1, he2) and fans (fan0, fan1) don't appear to be getting any voltage when I turn them on via Repetier. I checkedby rtrahms - Controllers
Re: ABS printing- just went wrong after a while - 10 years ago
Hi all - I think I figured it out. I am still printing by sending gcode across USB from my PC to the Sanguinololu, and the PC has a bunch of other stuff running on it. Figuring a case of "PC interruptus", I turned off all other apps, revised power management on the PC, and reran the print. No problems at all! I think I am going to start looking into an SD card add-on for my printer to avoid tby rtrahms - Printing
Re: ABS printing- just went wrong after a while - 10 years ago
I wasn't watching, but repeated the print with the exact same results - about fifth layer in it had this failure again. Just to make the the printer works above the fifth layer with ABS, I printed a narrower object with 130 layers. No problem - finished successfully. It must have something to do with the footprint of the object. As you can see, this is an x-carriage for a Mendel90 and is quiteby rtrahms - Printing
ABS printing- just went wrong after a while - 10 years ago
Hi all - Configuration: Mendel90/Repetier/Slic3r ABS 3mm 230 C extruder 110 C heated bed As you can see, the print started out great, very consistent. Around 5-6 layers down, something went wonky. Has anyone had a situation like this before? What should I be looking for? Thanks, Robby rtrahms - Printing
Re: Actual filament width too thin for extruder? - 10 years ago
This is quite frustrating! PLA works like a dream at 195 C extruder temp, but for the life of me I cannot get ABS to extrude at any temp up to 250 C (I don't go any higher for fear of burning something out). I even have a cooling fan mounted on the x-carriage: Am I missing something here? Does the Wades extruder not work with ABS? Robby rtrahms - Printing
Actual filament width too thin for extruder? - 10 years ago
Hi all - I have a Mendel90 (3mm Wades Extruder, Repetier, Slic3r) and have been happily printing with PLA for a couple of years now. Decided to branch out into ABS printing this month, so I purchased a spool of 3mm blue ABS. I was using higher temps (230 C for the hotend, 110 C for the heated bed). The first warning was when I measured the actual width of the ABS filament in a couple of placeby rtrahms - Printing
Re: Print sticking *too* well - 10 years ago
I think I figured out a solution! It's related to the fact that I can wash the PVA off the glass with warm water after the print is done, or when I want to apply a fresh coat of diluted PVA. I left the glass with stuck printed object in a bath of warm water for 10 minutes, then removed it and used the razor scraper. It was MUCH easier to remove! Practically slid off the glass. You learn somethby rtrahms - Printing
Print sticking *too* well - 10 years ago
Hello all - My print setup: Mendel 90 printer with a Sanguinololu controller and heated bed wade extruder, heated to 195 deg C Heated bed, heated to 60 deg C 3mm PLA Repetier/Slic3r I have leveled the extruder on the bed using the sheet of paper trick Print on glass with PVA (10:1) solution to prevent some prints from losing grip on the glass Lately, prints have been especially hard to remove fby rtrahms - Printing
Warts on print - 10 years ago
Hi all - Mendel90 w/Sanguinololu & sprinter firmware (3mm PLA filament, 0.5mm extruder and heated bed) Repetier & Slic3r Since getting the bed aligned with the Mendel90 and parameters set pretty well, my prints have taken on a new level of precision - yay! I still do get periodic 'warts', like this print of Lincoln's likeness. Any thoughts on how to address this? Thanks in advance! Roby rtrahms - Printing
Re: Recent issue printing detailed holes - 11 years ago
No, but one item that I discovered was that my extruder motor was significantly over-extruding filament (~30-40%). I recalibrated the extruder, and printed another 5mm cube step model. Significant improvement! Still have a corner issue, might be unrelated. I will continue to investigate. Robby rtrahms - Printing
Re: Recent issue printing detailed holes - 11 years ago
Alas, correcting the zip tie issue did not resolve the printing problem. I also opened up the extruder assembly to make sure the hobbed bolt was functioning properly. To simplify the problem, I went back to printing the 5mm cube calibration model. It is also showing signs of print difficulty now. My current working theory is that the filament temp (195 C) for this spool of filament is set tooby rtrahms - Printing
Recent issue printing detailed holes - 11 years ago
Hi all - I have a Mendel90/Sanguinololu/Sprinter using a Wades extruder/ 0.5 mm nozzle, a fan (always on) & heated bed with 3mm PLA. I use Repetier/Slic3r. I have dialed in some pretty decent prints, but have been having trouble recently with some more detailed prints, notably printing holes with not very large sides, and am not sure why. Attached is an example. I am not sure what changedby rtrahms - Printing
Will a cooling fan solve this issue? - 11 years ago
Hi all - Configuration: Mendel90 / Sanguinololu / Sprinter / Repetier I have noticed that I get some strange curling during overhangs on certain prints. I did a calibration overhang print (images attached), which shows the curling. I do not have cooling fan built (yet), still need to procure parts for the switch. Thanks, Robby rtrahms - Printing
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