You know, while I was doing some other stuff, I put a piece of HDPE about the thinkness I would use for these tabs on the head bead and cranked it up to 110 deg. I certainly got hot, but I wasn't able to deform it. Next I will tap in a 4 or 5mm screw and tighten it down against a spring that has more tension than I would use for the bed and see if there is any problem with it holding. I stby charlieRC - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Yah, I think you've convinced me to go with Teflon. I may make some test parts out of HDPE along the way, but I don't really want to waste the effort to make three of these and a spare only to decide I need to change to Tefflon. Thanks for talking me away from the edge.by charlieRC - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Another random question. I was looking into getting some teflon and it's not a big deal, but it occured to me that I have a lot of bits and pieces of "starboard" or HDPE. It's the white material used in boat building. It's extreemly machinable and I pullled out the heat gun and it took quite a while with the gun on high and very close to the material before it got hot enouigh to be deformedby charlieRC - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotesdavi I have a similar setup to what you are planning. Duet WIFI with a custom CNCed 3mm alu plate running on V-slot (c-beam), 270x230x6.35mm ATP-5 cast aluminium plate with 3 point mounting, 24V kapton heater underneath and a PEI sheet stuck on top. I'm using The Digital Dentists Teflon Mounting Technique. Teflon sheet from ebay cut on CNC to make the mounts. I've had this setup for overby charlieRC - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotethe_digital_dentist NEMA-17 motors vibrate less than NEMA-23 motors, and AFAIK, resonance seems to be less of a problem with the smaller motors. Throwing more money at the motors won't help, but throwing it at the drivers might. Advanced drivers (see ) sense resonance and do tricks to reduce its effect. Hummmmm.... I’m using the Duet WiFi board....that is, I will once I get it back from tby charlieRC - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotegmedlicott If you're building a printer and want to use a rigid 1/4 bed, a printer with the bed only traveling in the Z is the better option I think.. I've looked at the core X Y configurations and it's intriguing, but I was already too for along with this design. If this does not work, that is probably the first thing I will consider. I also like that it makes it easier to enclose the prby charlieRC - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I am building this printer to be all lead screw. You said that you were moving from ball screw to belts. May I ask why? I would think that ball screw would provide the best accuracy of the three (lead, ball, belt). Of course this is coming from someone that until I started this project, has never used anything but belts and threaded rod. I will check out the cast/tooling plate.by charlieRC - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Ok, so here’s the sandwich plan... I have a bottom mounting plate of 1/8th aluminum that rides on v-slot rails and wheels. The 1/4” aluminum plate will be mounted to the mounting plate with a semi fixed point in the left rear and a spring loaded leveling point in the right rear. I will have a spring loaded pitch adjusting point in the middle of the front. The heating element will be stuck tby charlieRC - Extruded Aluminum Frames
In my previous printer (#2), I used a 12” square of 1/8” aluminum with a Kapton stick on heater sheet on the bottom of the plate and a glass plate over that. The corners of the glass were clipped t allow space for the spring loaded adjusters. I have 1/4” sheet that I can substitute for the 1/8”. Obviously the 1/4” is twice the weight of the 1/8”, there by increasing the inertia. I suspect Iby charlieRC - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I am working on my third printer (cartesian). For bed height adjustment, I have always used four points ( in the corners of the bed). I’ve been thinking maybe I should try a three point system...maybe two adjusters in the back corners and one in the middle in front. I think getting a good flat plain is more difficult with four points but would be easy with three. Has anyone tried this? I wouby charlieRC - Extruded Aluminum Frames
My lead screws are all 350 and 450mm. Not sure what I would do with a 100mm lead screw. I am using all anti-backlash nuts, but I suspect I could get by with a bit less spring tension. I’m sure that’s adding some unneeded friction.. I have ordered a duet WiFi controller. (Thanks for the heads-up, LoboCNC) Hope that was a good move. The motors I have are all 2ampsby charlieRC - General
Maybe someone else can answer that but this is my first attempt and not real sure what to expect. Logically, I would think that speed is a big factor. My belt driven printers use gt2 16 tooth belt pulleys which would mean 32 mm per rotation. The lead screws I am using are T8 4 start screws with a 2 mm pitch, thus a revolution = 8mm (2 X 4), so right off the bat I am looking at 4 times the rby charlieRC - General
Hmmmm. My other printers have always used a raspberry pi talking to a rambo. I wonder if I can do the same with one of the controllers you mention. I guess as long as there is a USB port and they can work with Marlin, they should work. I will take a look at them.by charlieRC - General
Sorry LoboCNC, didn't see your response before I posted above. At this point, I seem to be stuck with trial and error. Any suggestions about a controller? I was planning on using the eincy Rambo until someone said they don't provide enough power. I am now thinking about the Rambo Mini or just the regular Rambo, but not sure if that's any better. I am no loner sure what's out there and bby charlieRC - General
Please forgive me if I still don't have my logic right, but.... What I have mounted right now is a nema 17 on the X and two more on the Z I have a nema 23 on the Y I was going to change out the nema 23 for a nema 17, but maybe not. The nema 17's are 2a/ph with 83 oz in torque The nema 23's are 2.8a/ph and 178 oz in Since I am most worried about the X and Y does it make sense to swap out the nby charlieRC - General
QuoteLoboCNC If you want steppers to move faster, use as high a supply voltage as the driver chips and caps on your board will allow. (I think most ought to handle 24v at least.) Also, for a given size, try to choose a motor with the highest current rating your drivers can handle. These motors will have a correspondingly lower "rated" voltage, allowing them to be driven faster from, say, a 24vby charlieRC - General
Quotedc42 The drivers on the Einsy are not capable of high current, which means it should be used with low current motors - which also means high inductance. So the Einsy is probably not the best choice if you want high speed. Thank you. I will check out the link. I wonder if the regular Rambo or Mini Rambo would be better than the Einsy? Do you know?by charlieRC - General
I am on the downhill side of building a new printer that will be completely lead screw based. I know that it will be slower than a belt driven printer (about a forth of the distance per revolution) but I really want to see if I can make the best of this. I will probably go with a Rambo Mini or Rambo Einsy controller, but I am reasonably sure that the nema 17 steppers I have are not going to beby charlieRC - General
What is RRF. been a while since I’ve been in this forum. Also, I M about 85% done building a belt-less printer (all lead screw) and about to decide on the controller. My previous printers have used Rambo or Mini Rambo. I don’t really care about the noise. I may go back to the Mini simply because I’ve had a good amount of history with it and am unclear about the benefits of the Einsy. I am aby charlieRC - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotepiper3d When I was converting from 3 to 1.75 I just printed an additional GW extruder for 1.75. Since that time (about 1 year ago) I am using just GW extruders on all 6 of my printers in different configurations direct drive and Bowden. GW=Greg Wade? I started out with one of those but had difficulty changing filament. May have been the one I had. The thing I liked about the extruder I aby charlieRC - General
Hope this is the right place to post... I built my own printer several years ago and have been very happy with it. It uses a 3mm extruder (direct drive) that I can no longer get parts for. Seems to use a simple j-head and .5 mm nozzle. Now I see that 3mm filament seems to be fading out in favor of 1.75mm and i should start thinking about converting. This raises several questions... 1) If Iby charlieRC - General
I've checked everything as best I can. The empty pcb above filled in the missing information about how everything should be wired. I checked all the traces and the resistence on R1, R2 and R3 and got 2.4k, 220 and 1k respectively which sounds reasonable and everything else looks as it should. It all comes down to the diode and now I am convinced these were all defective when I received them.. Iby charlieRC - Experimental
QuoteDust The tech is correct, the led should change state as well as the output voltage, you shouldn't even need a nano, just power and gnd and something to interrupt the light That's the thing. When I put something in the sensor to block the IR, the LED is not changing state and the output voltage is not changing. Am I still not understanding. I would write these off as defective except tby charlieRC - Experimental
It is a 5v nano, and I have seen using anything that would block light...pieces of heave plastic, wood, or think cardboard,.. for testing purposes. I have been trying to talk to tech support at ultimachine, the source of the sensor board, but I am not always that great at describing a problem and I don’t think we are on the same wave length. I think he is telling me that the led indicator shoulby charlieRC - Experimental
This may not be the place for this question, and if not I apologize. I was sent Ultimachine optical end stops with one of my Rambo boards even though I didn't need them. I was using mechanical switches. I thought I would try to see how they worked so that I might include them in other projects. On a Arduino Nano, I connected VCC to 5v, GND to nano GND, and for signal, tried both A0 withby charlieRC - Experimental
I have the same issue and I am sure the two suggestions offered above are not correct. I get "busy processing" after I replaced a regular Rambo with a miniRambo and made the necessary configuration changes to support that board.. I get it when the hot end is already homed and the bed and hotend temp are where they should be. I will wait anywhere from 15 seconds to a minute for the print to sby charlieRC - General
Holly cow!!! That was it. The line in configuration.h was... #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60} I changed that last parameter to 4*30 and the problem seems to be solved. Would 120 work as well as 4*30?? I've been fighting with this all day. Man, I wish I could buy you a cup of coffee (or what ever your preference is) but I can only say Thank you!!! still have an issue with thaby charlieRC - Firmware - Marlin
Ok, problem has changed. I managed to get the X and Y axis's to work correctly, but I still have an issue with the z axis. It moves up and down in the correct direction, but since the origin has not been set, it stops pretty high above the bed. If I hit the Z home, the motors make an awful screeching noise and move very slowely downward. The screeching is so loud that I hit the reset buttonby charlieRC - Firmware - Marlin
firmware: Marlin 1.1 Control: Pronterface 2015.3.10 bed: 305mm x 305mm controller: miniRambo Replacing a broken Rambo with a miniRame Please see next message.by charlieRC - Firmware - Marlin
I just ordered and received a new Rambo mini to replace an older Rambo full size that I was having some issues connect too. I mounted the mini and plugged everything in as always and was able to connect, but I get no power to anything. I checked the import power at the mini and it's 24.09 volts on both channels. I tried both a brand new copy of Marlin firmware (with the buad, thermisters and mby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics