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Anything related to printer controllers not being Duet, RAMPS or Sanguinololu: microprocessors, motor and heater driver circuitry, gEDA/KiCAD issues, soldering tips, etc.
Re: HOTEND doesn't warm - 11 years ago
What electronics board are you using? Assuming you're using RAMPS, the problem could be the power Mosfet for your hot end. It's also possible that the heater you are using for your hot end is somehow broken. I would test the Mosfet either with a multimeter or a something like a fan to see if there is any power coming from it, and the hot end heater by plugging it into another Mosfet. Also doubleby 3D-ME - Printing
Re: Hot end throat blocks - 11 years ago
Hi Stephanel, It seems like your hot end's barrel is getting way too hot. The type of hot end that you are using requires a heat sink and a fan to actively cool the barrel. As long as the fan blows only on the heat sink, the heater block temperature shouldn't be affected too much. I made some DIY heat sinks from aluminum, and they work well for my hot end designs, which are similar to yours. I wby 3D-ME - Reprappers
Re: [USA] Prusa i3 Rework Printed Parts Kit! ABS + PLA parts!! - 11 years ago
Update #2: The listing is back on here: RepRap parts kit on eBay. Lowered Price! Thank you for looking!by 3D-ME - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Re: [USA] Prusa i3 Rework Printed Parts Kit! ABS + PLA parts!! - 11 years ago
Update: I took the listing off for this week because I'm going to be traveling, but I will put it back on by Monday next week.by 3D-ME - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Re: About to build my first 3d printer - 11 years ago
You may need electronics like a bed thermistor and belts if you haven't ordered them already. And zip ties! This wiki page is for the Prusa i3 Rework, and should show you an idea of the things that you will need. Good luck!by 3D-ME - Reprappers
Re: Top layer has holes - 11 years ago
It appears to me that your printer is just printing one layer of material over the infill, causing your holes, go to the full settings in Cura under 'Fill', and set that to a higher number like 1mm or 2mm and see what happens. That will add more layers of material over the holes and hide them. Of course, that being said, although I have Cura 14.07, I've never actually used it for an entire print,by 3D-ME - Printing
Re: Confirmation of which printed plastics files - 11 years ago
Hi Gordon, I made a Prusa i2 last year, and I just used the .stl files from that github repository, so yes, they are the correct files for the Prusa Mendel i2. There will be a folder in the .zip download with all the .stl files that you need for using LM8UU bearings, no need for you to edit a script, that was already done. When building my printer, I sent my friend the folder of files and a listby 3D-ME - General Mendel Topics
Re: Effects of temp on ABS? - 11 years ago
I actually covered my printer in some clear plastic to make a sort of 'heat chamber'/draft shield, and it seems to help immensely with layer adhesion and preventing warp with my ABS. It works best for me if you put your heated bed to 110 C and try to keep the part the same temp all the way through, I've noticed if one side of the print is a much different temp than the other, the ABS tends to staby 3D-ME - Printing
Re: Inquiry to get listed as US supplier. - 11 years ago
I bought some belts and pulleys from sidewinderinc/FoldgerTech, and am very pleased with their quality, I got a good price, too. I also ordered some ABS filament from Dan too, but it isn't very good at all, however it was the cheapest stuff on eBay, and I suppose at about $18 a roll, you get what you pay for! Overall, I am pretty pleased with FoldgerTech, and would like to see him involved in theby 3D-ME - General
Re: Planning a rework build w/ box frame and SAE rods etc... - 11 years ago
The Einstein and the rework have the same frame as far as I know, so if you make an Einstein box frame, they should be compatible. I built my Prusa i2 out of SAE hardware, and the only problems from the SAE was the leadscrew can be a bit goofy, (my layer heights are like 0.2822mm,) but there has been no real problem from that, so I think SAE would work for you, I made A quick spreadsheet showingby 3D-ME - General
Re: right side z motor stalls - 11 years ago
Perhaps the stepper driver is damaged: try swapping the driver with one to a different axis, if the z axis then works, the stepper driver may be the issue. I would also double-check the firmware to make sure the homing feedrate isn't too high. Have you tried lowering the axis manually? does it only stutter while homing? if so, that may be the problem. Try sending it something like G1 Z1 F100, (frby 3D-ME - Printing
[USA] Prusa i3 Rework Printed Parts Kit! ABS + PLA parts!! - 11 years ago
RepRap Prusa i3 'Rework' Printed Parts Kit. These are the printed parts needed for the popular rework of the Prusa i3 3D Printer, designed by eMotion-Tech. More info on the rework is available here: on its wiki page These parts have been printed in both ABS and PLA (PLA is used for the gears as it is more wear-resistant) at a 50% or more honeycomb infill with thick walls and a layer height ~0.by 3D-ME - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Re: Burnt power terminal - 11 years ago
I had nearly the same problem on my printer, but found the scorching in the power terminals before it completely destroyed them. I tracked down the source of the cause to be too thin of wires on my power terminals, and it looks like you may be having that problem, too. I switched from thinner (around 18-20 AWG) wires to 16 AWG wires, andhave had no problems since. I think that is what caused yourby 3D-ME - Safety & Best Practices
Re: right side z motor stalls - 11 years ago
I had the same exact problem with my Prusa i2, and it turned out to be a loose wire, so I would recommend double-checking the wires to that motor, ensuring that everything is attched and solid. It could very well be low stepper voltage like 3dkarma said, too.by 3D-ME - Printing
Re: RAMPS Power Terminals - 11 years ago
I'm glad you got it all figured out. I often boat my stuff over from China, it is a great price if you are willing to wait for the shipping!by 3D-ME - Reprappers
Re: RAMPS Power Terminals - 11 years ago
A look at the RAMPS 1.4 wiki page suggests using this power jack and this terminal block for your RAMPS board. Just skip down to the bill of materials on the RAMPS page, and it will show you all the parts you need.by 3D-ME - Reprappers
Re: Using 3.0mm jhead MKV with 1.75 mm filament - 11 years ago
I've heard of someone simply putting a PTFE (Teflon) tube with an 3mm OD and a 2mm ID in theirs J-head, lining the inside of their entire hot end. Here's a link to a 3mm J-head easily converted to 1.75mm with a PTFE tube: 1.75mm J-head. The ptfe tube is probably fairly inexpensive, and I would think that this should work for you.by 3D-ME - Plastic Extruder Working Group
3D Printed End Stop Switch! - 11 years ago
I recently designed and printed an end stop switch for my RepRap after I broke one of my store-bought ones. It isn't 100% printable, it makes use of a pen spring and wires, but it has worked great for dozens of prints so far! Here's the link: Thingiverse This is definitly not the most practical end stop switch, as store-bought ones are realatively cheap, reliable, and long-lasting, but this endby 3D-ME - Look what I made!
Re: Hacking a Makerbot Replicator 2? - 11 years ago
If Makerbot wasn't struggling, why would they apply for patents of other people's work? Although I will say that Makerbots, to what I've heard of them, can be pretty decent, but they seem overpriced to me... of course that's coming from a guy who built a sub-$300 Prusa! I think that it should be possible to re-wire all the parts of a Makerbot or Ultimaker to a RAMPS board, It just depends on howby 3D-ME - General
Re: cheap-o end stop? - 11 years ago
Assuming you are using mechanical endstops, you might want to make sure that the paddles on your endstops depress before your X-end reaches the end stop mount. I had the X-end push my end stop mount down a little every time until the X-end hit the end stop mount instead of the end stop paddle, causing the nozzle to crash into the bed. I just modified the end stop mount, and tightened it in place,by 3D-ME - General
Re: Arduino UNO for controling? - 11 years ago
I'm surprised that someone hasn't made a 3d printer controller from an Arduino UNO yet. To my knowledge, it should be possible to use some of the analog pins as digital pins. This would allow you to run four steppers (12 pins), three endstops (3 pins), two heaters (2 pins), a fan (1 pin), and two thermistors (2 pins). That would take a total of 20 pins, which the UNO has. Definitely not as powerfby 3D-ME - Controllers
Re: SAE Prusa Mendel printer parts? - 11 years ago
I recently built my first printer, a Prusa Mendel I2, out of all SAE hardware. All of the printed parts were just the metric ones from the Prusa GitHub page. The 5/16" rods worked great, but the #6-32 nuts did not fit in any of the M3 nut traps for the printed parts, although that didn't turn out to be much of a problem for me. You may need to check or modify your extruder design, though, to makeby 3D-ME - General Mendel Topics
Re: Stepper motor rotates to one side - Help - 12 years ago
I had the same problem as you, so I just changed in Sprinter: const bool X_ENDSTOP_INVERT =false const bool Y_ENDSTOP_INVERT =false const bool Z_ENDSTOP_INVERT =false To: const bool X_ENDSTOP_INVERT =true const bool Y_ENDSTOP_INVERT =true const bool Z_ENDSTOP_INVERT =true Then the stepper motors moved both ways in Pronterface. You may need to change the invert back when you attach your endstops,by 3D-ME - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Newb advice / Hello world! - 12 years ago
I plan on compensating for the difference in pitch thread on my Z axis by changing in Sprinter: #define AXIS_STEP_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 3200/1.25,700} to: #define AXIS_STEP_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 3200/1.41,700} The number that I changed is the thread pitch of the rods, even though the pitch of the SAE rod is a repeating decimal, (causing the compensation to always be a little off,) I think it won't be aby 3D-ME - Reprappers
Re: Newb advice / Hello world! - 12 years ago
Okay, that helps me clear up some stuff. Thanks, mkaisercross. For the motors I got I know that the rated supply voltage is 12-36VDC. I don't remember the max current exactly, but I know its at least over 1 amp. I found some info on them Here and Here.by 3D-ME - Reprappers
Re: Newbie needing help!! - 12 years ago
Okay, so I was able to fix the X and Y motor problems by changing: const bool X_ENDSTOP_INVERT = false; const bool Y_ENDSTOP_INVERT = false To: const bool X_ENDSTOP_INVERT = true; const bool Y_ENDSTOP_INVERT = true; I don't exactly know why it works because of that, and I may need to change it back when I put endstops on my board, but at least I know the problem now! Thank you to everyone who hasby 3D-ME - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Newb advice / Hello world! - 12 years ago
The main reason that I am building the i2 is because I discovered the i3 after I had bought all the parts for my frame! So far the SAE hardware parts are working great, they are completely compatible with my metric RP parts. I'm thinking of maybe making a reprap wiki page with a BOM of SAE hardware for the i2. I have only seen This one for the i1. I might get an M8 rod for my Z-motors, though, oby 3D-ME - Reprappers
Re: Newb advice / Hello world! - 12 years ago
Welcome to Reprap! I am currently building an Prusa i2 as my first printer. Since I am in the U.S., to reduce the hardware costs of my printer, I am using 5/16"-18 threaded rods in place of M8, and #6-32 machine screws instead of M3 bolts. I got both from Home Depot and Menards. I got oil-hardened 5/16" drill rod and other hardware from Fastenal. I am using some used stepper motors from Ebay,by 3D-ME - Reprappers
Re: Newbie needing help!! - 12 years ago
I have NO idea why I ever changed it from {80, 80, 3200/1.25,700} to {80, 80, 3200/2272.7272}! I think I must have inadvertently changed it when I first uploaded it to my board. I have my board type as "33". I'll change my baudrate back to 115200, too. I turned the trimpot down, and now the stepper motor doesn't heat up so much. (Hooray!) My fans are now working! I realized that my cooling fan mby 3D-ME - RAMPS Electronics