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Anything related to printer controllers not being Duet, RAMPS or Sanguinololu: microprocessors, motor and heater driver circuitry, gEDA/KiCAD issues, soldering tips, etc.
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
At this point the tube isn't creating any obvious issues. Put another way, replacing it with an angle iron would not reduce the footprint. One thing to note - The clearance areas in the drawing are not 100% correct. There is an area away from the support tube needed for arm clearance that is not shown. That would make an angle a bit harder to fit right at the corner of the triangle.by uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
I figure the concave part is what's going to keep it from pinching as it goes through. It's designed to force fit without that.by uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
You still can come up with clips, they would not be as simple. The arms now come out past the plane between the outside of the supports. The black circle is a guess at the real print circle. It appears to be a bit to large. I simply scaled it from the "normal" LISA. The other stuff is the same colors as the last image.by uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
I was wondering what that part was for .... What you loose is the ability to easily clip plywood sheets (or what ever) to the support pipes when you want to heat the print area (or keep dogs out of it). -------------- Is there an .xls file around that you can punch basic numbers into and get out useful information? Inputs: 1) mounting radius of the driven shafts 2) arm length (?) 3) basic huby uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
Ok, here's where I'm at: Red are supports, blue are the drive shafts, purple is the clearance for a full print plate, green is the print plate. The red rectangle is the door I'd like to get through.... If it's just a door I can do a bit of carving on the base. That number may also apply to the stair rail. Have to go check. The one thing that gets lost is the ability to put flat plates betweenby uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
If a $200 thread rod bends a bit when you heat it up, that's a pretty expensive way to go.... Yes, you could buy a separate 1 foot piece for the process and toss it when you are done.by uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
If you go with the two part foams - keep in mind that they are a *slow* process. They also are a bit sensitive to heat and mix ratio. I once spent 4 hours with the fire crew while we tried to figure out whether facing of the top five floors of the 20 story building we had just foam filled were going to explode and rain down on the traffic in the street. Fun times .... --------------- So - anothby uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
OK, so what's a good cheap / easy bearing for the 1/4 IP stuff at 0.540" (13.716 mm) ? R10 or 1633 maybe? Looks like: Will sell you a lifetime supply of the 3/8-IP for less than $10. Looks like 3/8-ip nuts are 27 cents each at: I assume the idea is to more or less crush fit the bearings on the pipe (17 mm bearing ID and 17.14 mm pipe OD)by uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
That's the answer I was looking for .... I'll scale my arm designs accordingly. Thanks!by uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
Dual 608's: Right now the arms use dual 608's at the pivots. That's going to spread some of the forces out over more plastic. It also will constrain the shaft through the 608's quite well. An alternative would be to mate the shaft tightly with one 608 and use a material like aluminum to mount the outside of the bearing. The aluminum isn't going to let the bearing go anywhere. The tightened dowby uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
I looked at : Hollow studs: (not very precise) For a lot of money you can get precise (but no threads): There are also a lot of smooth tubes in various other levels of precision. To your point, none of it looked very promising. The plastic shaft seems to be a pretty good alternative. I'm may need to re-do the hub parts to get them to mate up with my aluminum bar arms. Once I need to reby uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
Scale up question: The central axis of the machine is a hollow plastic shaft that's printed as part of hub_bottom. The shaft appears to be 15mm in diameter. I'm *guessing* that scaling up that shaft diameter would be a good idea on a 2X larger printer. 25 mm and 30 mm seem like pretty good candidates for a scale up from the standpoint of bearings to replace the 15mm 6702's. So now the questionby uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: Inconsistant Calibration - 10 years ago
All of the math in the firmware is ultimately integer math. Unless you calibrate over large distances, this will drive you a bit crazy.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: RAMPS for Due! - 10 years ago
Given the trouble we have seen on the Due board layouts with un-labeled board changes ---- put a rev on the board and the docs !!!! I often find myself using things like A1 A2 A3 for small changes and go to B for the big changes. If I was smart, I'd probably start at A0, but I never seem to expect things to change.....by uncle_bob - Controllers
Re: Magma Hot End w/ Marlin v1 - 10 years ago
The first issue is that the power supply really isn't big enough for that printer. The second issue depends a *lot* on what thermistor tables you have. If they have the MakerFarm table 6 then 1 and 6 are pretty similar. If they have the default Marlin table 6 and the MakerFarm data is in 96 and 97 then stay away from table 6. To rule out the power supply until you get a proper one - do all thby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Confused by the electronics - 10 years ago
Marlin = firmware that runs on a Mega 2560 board Mega 2560 board = the thing under the Ramps 1.4 board ($20 or so) Ramps 1.4 board = The gizmo the everything connects to. ($15 or so) Stepper drivers = little plug in dudes that cost about $8 to $10 Arduino = the name of the guys who did the Mega 2560 board and the software empire that supports itby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa i3 x axis calibration - 10 years ago
Are you sure your switch is wired correctly? Check the plug in end of the cable with a DVM to be sure the switch changes state when the end stop is hit.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: MK2 Heat Bed Wiring- stand alone - 10 years ago
A Ramps 1.4 + Mega 2560 is roughly $40. I'd bet it will do the job. Don't know if it will fit inside the box....by uncle_bob - Controllers
Re: Extruder gears - 10 years ago
If it was the set screws, you are far from the first one to run into the problem.....by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Calibration help - 10 years ago
1) There is no way to print corners that are perfectly square. The tip of your extruder is round. 2) Do you have "skirt" turned on in Slic3r? That will make a bigger first layer. 3) If you are printing a single layer vase, the walls will not be perfectly straight. On a solid cube they should be straight. A lot depends on how much precision you are trying to come up with. A 0.2 mm head will improby uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Which stepper to buy: 68oz 0.9degrees or 70oz 1.8degrees - 10 years ago
In the world of printers, we (hopefully) smoothly accelerate and decelerate the stepper. That means we have a varying frequency sine wave that's the drive in the high speed case that this all came out of. The discussion is revolving around a high rpm rather than a low RPM use case. In the low RPM case you do get steps in the current, but you are in what we are calling an "ohms law" region.by uncle_bob - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
@Nicholas I *think* (and I may well be wrong) that the bolts that fasten the motors down go through the plywood that is at the very bottom of the assembly. Put another way, they fasten below the motors. What I'm suggesting is having the motors stay below the build plate, but bring the mounting screws up rather than down. They would fasten to the "build plate" plywood. With double thick wood, coby uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: Which stepper to buy: 68oz 0.9degrees or 70oz 1.8degrees - 10 years ago
We very much do generate a sinusoidal current to drive a stepper motor. The stepper is being operated as s synchronous AC motor when it's in micro stepping mode. The data sheets for the stepper chips show this very clearly.by uncle_bob - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Re: RAMPS for Due! - 10 years ago
If you already have SMT parts on the board, then the SOT-23 makes a lot of sense.....by uncle_bob - Controllers
Re: Cooling fan suggestions for Mendel - 10 years ago
The fans you have should work fine. They appear to be 3 pin PWM 12V PC fans. The standard connectors: Will do fine with just +12 and ground. The "sensor" pin simply does not get connected. If they don't run when set up that way, they are defective. The most common issue is getting them hooked up backwards .....by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Calibration - overhangs, bridge, retraction - 10 years ago
It's a bit hard to see in the pictures, but how are your settings doing for ooze? With that much retraction is seems like you are fighting a filament / setup that tends to drip a bit...by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: slic3r issue - 10 years ago
How big is your STL object? What version of Slic3r? Have you checked the STL for errors?by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Extruder gears - 10 years ago
Does the motor shaft turn? If so check the set screw on the small gear. If not check the motor wires. If it's still a problem swap the extruder to the X axis and see if it moves. If it does swap stepper controllers. If that's not it check the driver board connections.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
@CTF Print quality is a function of fine tuning the printer. Given about 5Kg of filament and three months you can probably optimize everything on a pair of printers for a given set of prints. Until you do that with a consistent set of expectations, it's going to be very tough to decide if one or the other is "better". Best guess if you did do all that work on any rational pair of printers - theby uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Re: LISA Simpson - 10 years ago
Well, that's a lot better than what I get when I invert the Z axis on my i3 (which then falls to the floor more or less). How fast were you printing on each print? About the only other thing I can see to check in this vein is twist. Not quite sure how, but it would validate the PVC pipe / thread rod part of the design. (yes I am sitting here looking at tube for my Franken-LISA).by uncle_bob - Delta Machines