oops "solder"by Janski - Reprappers
You guys are awesome. I appreciate your time with these newbie questions I will be saldering it up and will post results. Loving the open-source community. -Janskiby Janski - Reprappers
Thank you both Dave and Cameron . I believe I understand what you both mean now. Excuse my lack of understanding as I am very new at electrical terminology and practice. Can I simply push the black wire (stripped ) through #2 into #3 and Sadler generously? Or would I have to cut and strip a wire to create a bridge between #2 and #3 and then connect the black wire to the bridge ? Or it does noby Janski - Reprappers
QuoteNewPerfection The picture makes your problem clear. Pads 2 and 3 need to be soldered together along with the black wire, assuming you are using a 12V power supply. If you are only soldering to one of those pads, the heated bed will draw much less current, and fail to heat properly. So what you are saying is that I should solder Red wire to #2 and Black wire to # 3? Instead the pictured 1by Janski - Reprappers
What type of a Resistor is your Hotend using? It could be the faulty resistor as I have read that if the resistor heats up too much it may become faulty. Please correct if I am wrong in thinking this. Sincerely, Janskiby Janski - Reprappers
Hey Guys, I placed an order for a cartridge heater 40 w 5mm from Amazon. Hoping this will help me with maintaining temperature at 230 and faster response. Currently i am using RB59 Resistor. Not sure if this is the optimal resistor to use and it looks a bit flaky. This is the resistor that came with the Hardron Ord Bot kit from www.automationtechnologiesinc.com. Has anyone used the RB59 reby Janski - Printing
Dear DaveX, As per your comment I ran the PID autotune for the 120W reaprap.org heater bed that I am using. ok B:69.09 @:128 ok B:69.17 @:128 ok B:69.23 @:128 ok B:69.33 @:128 ok B:69.47 @:128 ok B:69.61 @:128 PID Autotune failed! timeout It looks as though it reaches 69.61 but then fails. As I have previously noticed a lot of my issues are due to improper soldering job. Currently I am usiby Janski - Reprappers
QuoteNewPerfection Have you run PID auto tune? Are the nozzle and heater block insulated somehow? I have ran auto tune for the Heater but not for the bed. What would be the command for auto tune heater bed that is connected to ramps 1.4 "D10" port? I am also insulating the block. Please advise Janskiby Janski - Reprappers
Hey Guys, I just recently learned about autotuning. Newbie here. From Pronterface. M303 E0 S230 C5 to get the Kp Ki Kd Values. Question 1: I assume it is the last one or do I average out the values that Pronterface spits out? Question 2: Do i have to autotune the heated bed as well? the bed has a hard time reaching 110C and I assume this has to do with the autotune function. What is the codeby Janski - Reprappers
As a newbie myself, I have figured this out with the help of other of course. But correct me if I am wrong on this as I am still learning. Pronterface and Slic3r are used together. Once you have the .stl file open it in Slic3r. There you can change the settings of the print itself like the extruder temp/ bed temp, fan speeds etc. you cannot open .stl file from pronterface and print because yby Janski - Reprappers
Having and issue with the Bed taking forever to heat up, and only reaching 67C. Should place a towel over it as I have seen it being recommended? Also, if my extruder is having issues staying at the 230 abs temp, should i change the fan speed in Slic3r so that it does not spin as fast and cool the hotend? Sincerely, Janskiby Janski - Reprappers
QuoteKingRahl When in Slic3r, in your Filament Settings tab, is your "first layer" and "other layers" temperature set? yes the temps are set to 240 and 235 for the next layers.by Janski - Reprappers
QuoteD-Wes It took me a while to figure out that the default values are editable. What do you mean by default values being editable? you mean in slic3r? or the actual GCode? Janskiby Janski - Reprappers
Quotecat.farmer if you look at your GCode in a text viewer do you see an M104 S230 ; set temperature command? It should be near the top after all of the commented out ( settings. Yes the GCode does match what you have there. Do you think it is the heating element that causes the temperature fluctuation ? I have swapped the heating elements , the 2nd one seems to respond faster. The heating elby Janski - Reprappers
Quotewaitaki I set my temps in slic3r to 0 and 0 so I can manually set them in Pronterface. When temp is reached, the printer starts and temp is maintained accurately throughout the job. Waitaki = how long does it take for the extruder to reach the temp. and does the temp stay the same withing 1-2 degrees? like the bed? or does it fluctuate? Mine bounces back and forth between 220 and 230.by Janski - Printing
I am using a QU-BD extruder with RB59 heating diode. After waiting for about 15 minutes the heater finally got to correct temp, but it bounces back and forth between 220 and 230 degrees C. JB you thing the issue is with the heating diode? the thermistors work fine. I switched to a new heating element and swapped to same QU-BD as I bought 2 at the same time. the new heating element seems to reby Janski - Printing
I too am getting the exact same issue. I have the QU-BD extruder on my Ord Bot printer. Trying to print ABS black at 230 degrees C. the nozzel is .5 diameter. Shreddin, how long does it usually take for your hotend to heat up? what do you mean by this: made the spring tensioner with a ball bearing.? attached is the gear that i am using. is this the same as the MK7 gear? it seems like the gear Iby Janski - Printing
What could be the issue if Pronterface default set tempdoes not keep the temp constant? Is this a Marlin Script/Pronterface setup issue or electrical?by Janski - Printing
Dear stephen, Once the bed is at 110, will the extruder change reading on the LCD display to 0/230? I ask because the settings show 21/0 for extruder and 21/110 for bed at start. This goes to tell me that the bed has a set temp it is trying to meet but the extruder does not. If what you are saying is correct i would have to ensure heat bed gets to the desired temp and then proceed with hotendby Janski - Reprappers
Dear Jbernardis, So you are saying if I leave the temp in Slic3r at 0, then manually set the temperatures in Pronterface? Normally, I found that when I click Set Temp in pronterface, the printer heats up to the temp stated, but then it slowly start to fall. If i set this to "0" in slic3r, would i then have to keep on clicking set temp in pronterface? or will it keep the temp for the durationby Janski - Printing
Dear Makers, I have recently learned the difference between Pronterface and Slic3r from the generous people in this forum. I understand that you need to modify the g.code file in order to have set temperatures for the filament and the beg. Problem: When I load the g.code to Pronterface from Slice3r, the settings for the ABS heater default to 0 Degrees( even though I set the ABS settings in Sliby Janski - Printing
PSPS: please share any resources you recommend for a beginner like me to review in order to get better at making 3d printers Janskiby Janski - Reprappers
Dear Dust, I got so excited about fixing the issue, that I forgot to thank you for the help you have provided! Through this tutorial I was able to gain a greater understanding of how this process works. As it turned out ( dont hate me) there was a wiring issue for the X endstop !. since the cables were heatsynced, I had to finally splice the protective cover open to find out about a solderinby Janski - Reprappers
Dear Makers, I have recently learned on the difference between Pronterface and Slic3r from the generous people in this forum. I understand that you need to modify the g.code file in order to have set temperatures for the filament and the beg. Problem: When I load the g.code to Pronterface from Slice3r, the settings for the ABS heater default to 0 Degrees, where as the bed temp stays correct.by Janski - Reprappers
QuoteDust If so they you may have a faulty or misconfiguration board in relation to the X min endstop. Check your firmware settings, anything w Even if your board is faulty.. we can move X min onto X max and make it work there, by editing the pins.h file. How would i go anout this ? Please adviseby Janski - Reprappers
Z triggered when i press the endstop and run M119. The issue is with the x endstop. When i press the x endstop switch manually, however, M119 continues to read pen.You mentioned pins.h and changing x min to x max Pins. What changes would i need to make for #define motherboard 33 in order to test? You are correct, still new in these forums so i will keep in mind to keep it short and sweet. jby Janski - Reprappers
When i test with the multimeter, x - axis cables readout 2 ohm. all the board pins read 40 ohm. Checked the endstop switches as well. x_min: open each time, if then hold z_min: TRIGGERED. as per readout below. :/. echoID settings: echo: M301 P62.91 I2.77 D357.64 echoD init fail >>>m119 SENDING:M119 Reporting endstop status x_min: open y_min: open z_min: TRIGGERED >>>m119 SENDby Janski - Reprappers
Found the pins.h file. thanks for helping me understand that it can be easily found this way. still new to marlin. Is this related to Arduino 2560 Mega r3 pinout picture found on google images ? Thanks for all the help Janskiby Janski - Reprappers
I have recently been helped with a homing issue that ended up being resolved within the firmware. Problem #1: x axis endstop does not respond and jams. M119 pronterface x min open Please advise. This is my first project and would love any suggestions. Regards, janskiby Janski - Reprappers
Thank you the homing now works, but the x endstop is still unresponsive Please advise Janskiby Janski - Reprappers