I had an mouse with an ADNS-2030 laying around so cut it up and connected it to a DUE. Measured the flat side of my Prusa I3 bed (y) belt Tested it with pronterface with a motor speed of 3000mm/mm and 6000mm/min. Moved the bed 100mm, got the data from the mouse, moved the bed back, reset the mouse and did it again. 6 times for both speeds. Registered both x and y and used Pythagoras to calculby Frans@France - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
QuoteElmoC Quoteicefire Just printed one test part without graphics controller... maybe it is a bit better, but still no joy. About 0.5 mm deviation in diameter (i.e. still egg-shaped). Still looking for the root cause.. If this is Marlin, just unplugging the display won't change anything. The code that drives the display still runs. You need to recompile without a defined display to see a realby Frans@France - General
Thanks for sharing! What do you mean with "draw a line on the belt"? Could it be because of the acceleration profile at higher printer speeds that it's missing "steps"? PS Did you readout all directions? If the sensor is not 100% in line with the belt then you need to combine the x and y databy Frans@France - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
QuotermlrnThese aren't my words, "If you buy one, its better destination is a shelf for component reuse or a bin if you don't have the knowledge or will to modify it" is a quote from the giant warning paragraph that's the first thing on the RAMPS-FD wiki page. Yes, and the reason for that is that the designer still was working on it, sharing so other could provide feedback and some Chinese manufaby Frans@France - General
Quoteicefire QuoteFrans@France I also see a graphics lcd ? It this a mega/ramp setup? Is the print speed low enough for the mega to handle the calculations & display? It is a ramps/mega setup (see my signature), lowering the speed hasn't helped. Here is my current speed setup: I still think it's a performance issue with the 8bit Arduino. The graphics together with the speed and extra calcuby Frans@France - General
QuoteJamesK Ah, the green finish had us all fooled Yeapby Frans@France - General
QuotermlrnGen7 looks nice but AFAIK it only runs the Teacup firmware which doesn't seem very actively developed compared to others like Smoothie. Might be that your definition of "very actively developed "is different then mine QuotermlrnAlso the only place to order from is in Europe, and only sells unassembled anyway? You don't have to order from Europe as you can diy, but if that is not yourby Frans@France - General
So why not the Gen7 32bits version that has just been released. Around Euro 48,- or cheaper if you do the pcb yourself. That would agree with the OP's question "Why hasn't a RAMPS-like system emerged around the $50 price point?" EDIT : added linkby Frans@France - General
If my circles were not rond the first thing I would do is check my x and y steps / mm calculations, or is a square cube 100% square? I also see a graphics lcd ? It this a mega/ramp setup? Is the print speed low enough for the mega to handle the calculations & display? Really surprised by the thin looking carriage! There is no flex in it? Also the belts can not bend that small insert they arby Frans@France - General
What would 32bits give you when not running graphical LCD or any LCD and not a delta? Not more speed as most 3d printers are not build good enough to run at 250mm/s, Also no need to go below 32 microsteps so that's also not a reason to have more power. So what is left?by Frans@France - General
QuoteBobyniObviously, small minded people would say I am hijacking the thread. It seems that, small minded people are everywhere. ! you might want to checkout what has to do with this 32-bits Gen7 board before calling him a small minded person. hint : re-read his first post in this thread....by Frans@France - General
So how did you define the x axis endstop in your configuration.h? you can use m119 to get the endstops statusby Frans@France - General
QuoteTraumflug QuoteBobynihttps://www.kickst.com/projects/1204283/zeropi-arduino-and-raspberry-pi-compatible-develop Your server is down: $ ping kickst.com /code] I think it's a typo, should be kickstarter soby Frans@France - General
I read the instruction as to 1) connect the lcd to the ramps board 2) put some firmware file you got with the lcd into the root (main) directory on a sd card and put that sd card into the sd slot of the lcd 3) power the ramps and the lcd will load the firmware from the sd card into the lcd controller 4) power down 5) remove sd card 6) power up 7) lcd will start up showing some menu where yby Frans@France - Reprappers
What problem do you have with the x axis homing? Is it not moving or is it stopping before the endstop or moving the other direction or something else?by Frans@France - General
depends on the plastic, in the datasheet there will some info about it. Normally something like x hours at x C. My ABS needs 2-4 hours @80Cby Frans@France - Printing
moisture in the filament, you need to dry it. And I think you have some under extrusion, might be that you need to measure the filament width and adjust the settings in the slicerby Frans@France - Printing
Seems you have a ramps board with tracks for the 1/16 step under the jumper header. is a known issue warning: ramps boards with bypassed jumper:by Frans@France - General
Ik gebruik niet de folie maar de massieve plaat, gekocht in Duitsland maar die leverancier heeft het niet meer. # hier iets meer keuzeby Frans@France - Warmtebed en Printbed
Don't you have your old configuration file and can't you use the settings from that file in your new firmware?by Frans@France - General
Are these foto's from a top layer or the first bottom layer? Is the under extrusion always at the same position for each object (right top corner)? or does it depends on the direction of the extrusion. Reason for asking is that it almost looks like the bed is lower at one end and therefor there is more distance between bed and hotend on that side of the bed PS Or one side of the z-axis is higherby Frans@France - Printing
De sensor een nieuwe truc geleert In het menu van de "controller" een optie toegevoegd om aan de sensor de frame data te vragen. Hierdoor is het mogelijk om "live" mee te kijken met wat de sensor ziet. Was de data eerst alleen zichtbaar in een programma dat ik speciaal had geschreven voor op de PC Ziet het er nu zo uit op de TFT Menu: Frame data:by Frans@France - Projecten
If you take the motor wires and just invert them then the motor will turn the other way. So for those motors in reverse and wired like red,blue,green,black you change them to black,green,blue,red. There also might be setting in the firmware to change the default DIR setting but I find swapping the wires easier. The missing endstop bounce I don't know. What I understand is that it will hit the eby Frans@France - Reprappers
Motors that run the wrong way: turn the motor connector 180* on the board, while there is no power on the board! No idea what you mean by "stop and park" Did you install the drivers for the board?by Frans@France - Reprappers
Have a look at the m codes you can use like M360 M503 etcby Frans@France - Reprappers
Did you try to set the extrusion width setting to the nozzle width? I think what you are seeing is that at the end of the line the hotend is decelerating and then the filament is not longer pulled (forced) into a smaller width and the ooze will increase the total volume (thus width) of filament being extruded.by Frans@France - Printing
QuotebdurbrowPhysically, however, it's a different story: that stuff likes to burn... exactly and heavier then air so it will build up on grond level making a spectacular event when ignited by some fireplace.by Frans@France - General
Might be that you need to dry your filament.by Frans@France - RAMPS Electronics
Quotestuff QuoteFrans@FranceDid you measure the average filament width and entered that value in the slicer? Either I'm missing this step, or doing it in some other way, not knowing how). How to measure average filament width and where to put it? For slicing I'm using Cura 15.04. For good brim overlapping I'm setting initial layer thickness to 0.17 (instead of usual 0.20) and initial layer line wby Frans@France - Printing