QuotebdurbrowThat is a possibility... my sticking point with two part epoxies though is that it sets up in the nozzle after the print is done... requiring a disposable nozzle; or some sort of solvent flush system. Not an insurmountable obstacle... but definitely something to be aware of before heading in that direction. They tend to also be somewhat expensive... there are some single component epby Frans@France - General
Aceton vapor would be dangerous. But I like the idea about using welding. Why not ultrasonic weld the layers? No need for holes but just an extra "extruder" that welds at certain point the layers.by Frans@France - General
I have a volcano and have set the extrusion width not on auto but used the size of the nozzle. PS With the nozzle @ 185 my guess is that this is PLA?by Frans@France - Printing
First thing I notice is the space between the lines in the rim. looks like under extruding and would explain that the brim doesn't help as much as it could. Did you measure the average filament width and entered that value in the slicer? Why the PVA/Water mix, why not the ABS/Aceton? PS I'm seeing warping and not delamination?by Frans@France - Printing
So maybe this "Hybrid 3D printer: FDM + Polyjet" will be an idea? 3D print with holes and then use the motor driven syringe to deliver a "filler" to the holes. Using 2 part poxy and a mixing nozzle would do the trick.by Frans@France - General
E, you're in the Dutch section, maybe post it in Dutch or continue in the English sections Good luck with the build!by Frans@France - Projecten
Could you not use some strong magnets to hold the bed? might hold the bed good enough for the printing motion but allow expansion when the bed is heated.by Frans@France - Developers
rfid on the spool, rfid reader on the printer. Develop some rfid admin software to setup a relation between rfid number and printer&slicer settings. Then write an plugin for the 3d printer control software so It can connect to the rfid reader and rfid admin.database. Let that plugin then take the appropriate actions.by Frans@France - General
maybe a) temperature too low b) nozzle blocked c) screw that pushes the filament onto the bolt too lose d) not enough voltage to the extruder motor if you can push it by hand and that is not too difficult then a and b are unlikely and either c and d or both could be the issue. I would start with c But if you mean with skip that it stops then it might be d, if you mean it turns but the filamentby Frans@France - Printing
Did you follow the instructions in this pdf?by Frans@France - General
QuoteMechaBits So what are the layer heights on the 1.2mm nozzle, I bet print speeds quite nippy. I did a 0.8 layer, speed was hard to tune, the filament is fed fast so there isn't much time to heat up to a good print temperature. As I said here "I might be able to push the volcano to 30mm/s, I failed at 35mm/s but it might be that replacing the Wade extruder for a full metal extruder would alloby Frans@France - General
Printing ABS @265C with a E3D volcano 1.2mm nozzle will have no issues with interlayer bonding if you print with 100% infill the part will be very strong. The blog post states Quotethe tabs on the part printed with a standard 0.40mm nozzle could be broken by hand if you really try. However the same features printed with Volcano were impossible to break with bare hands, and we really tried! Eveby Frans@France - General
- website states "No load backlash <=1° " - 5% is not accumulative, 5% of the 0.067° might not be something to worry about Made an error in the 50RPM, it's the 1:14 I could drive ~50rpm max using a cheap TB6560 @12Vby Frans@France - Developers
Quotewouterheerthe warping did not start at the bottom of the printed object, but halfway :-( (see attached picture). I don't have a clue hot to fix this one :-( Fill 20% ABS print temp 235 C with E3DV6 lite head. try higher infill (more surface for interlayer bonding) and/or higher print temp (beter interlayer bonding) and/or more perimeters (more interlayer bonding surface) or redesign the cby Frans@France - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist Nope. The basic spec on the full step accuracy is usually 5%. That's why going to >16:1 microstepping doesn't result in increased resolution (it will reduce noise and vibration, but you won't get finer positioning precision). You're right, I should have search for it Quotethe_digital_dentist A geared motor will increase torque but reduce speed. If you can live wby Frans@France - Developers
Quotethe_digital_dentistMotors do not step perfectly- there is typically a 5% spec on step to step position. What happens when the motors don't step exactly the same, say one is +5% and the other is -5%? Combine that with microstepping and I think that you're asking for a lot of easily avoidable trouble. isn't that 5% for microstepping? Using a geared nema17 maybe an option?by Frans@France - Developers
Quotethe_digital_dentistand always bring cash! unless your local government tried to ban /has banned cash orby Frans@France - General
But with a potentiometer you are not going to read the width of the filament and that is what both other designs are doing.by Frans@France - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
De Teensy ADC lib gebruikt om analogread te vervangen en nog wat andere wijzigingen. De meetsnelheid kwam daarmee op >1300fps maar wel met wat te veel fluctuatie. De ADC settings iets aangepast bracht de snelheid terug naar ~830fps en over >14.000 metingen bleek de fluctuatie maar 0.002mm te zijn. Dat is niet slecht. In deze "foto" is goed te zien dat er nog maar 3 pixels zijn waar de grijby Frans@France - Projecten
Die grastrimmer motor zag het niet zitten en was het na 10cm snipperen al zat. Terug naar de tekentafel. Ondertussen de sensor weer eens onderhanden genomen. Met een calibration rod van 1.60 meet de sensor 1.600, bij 3.05 meet de sensor 3.045 en een calibration rod van 2.48mm wordt als 2.490 gelezen. Dat lijkt dus behoorlijk goed te gaan en dat met ongeveer 250 metingen per seconden. Toch was erby Frans@France - Projecten
Quotetmorris9 He is a dumb kid fresh out of college that thinks he knows it all but knows nothing. And if I understand correctly even won(!) a prize with this business plan, so some jury also lacks some serious insight.by Frans@France - General
[3dprint.com] Quoteebay_seller “When you uploaded your items onto Thingiverse for mass distribution, you lost all rights to them whatsoever. They entered what is known in the legal world as ‘public domain’. The single exception to public domain rules are ‘original works of art’. No court in the USA has yet ruled a CAD model an original work or art. Therefore, you have no right to exclude othersby Frans@France - General
Ahh..I now read that you want to measure the belt and not the motor..silly me That would work rather well I think, mounting is then easier and you can beter control the distance between the belt and the lens of the sensor. Besides the resolution you also have to check the max speed it can do. An ADNS-2051 will have max speed of 14 ips or ~355mm/s I used the information from this link as a sby Frans@France - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Yes, but I found it very hard to connect to the motor such that the data was reliable. In the end bought a very cheap encoder on ebayby Frans@France - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Quote750magnaI'm printing in ABS. I'm going to try out printing with a fan blowing on the part, . Fan and ABS is a very big no-no it will warp so fast it can be used on starship enterprise Quote750magna I haven't used mine yet, just using the regular E3D with a .8mm nozzle. I'll keep that info in mind when I finally decide to set it up. Please note that when using a large nozzle the total voby Frans@France - General
Quotebraveheartust type my name no big deal i love designing things and build printers. If I had liked and/or had items you designed in my collection I would had removed the "like" and removed the design from my collection based on your postings here.by Frans@France - General
imho pouring plastic into a mold is not an issue, your selection of the plastic to pour is the problem Why do you want to use PLA and not another plastic? There are multiple plastics available that are beter for this. Never tried it but maybe just dissolving ABS in aceton and then pour it into a mold, slightly heat it to force evaporate the acetone faster then normal might work, you would needby Frans@France - General
QuoteElmoCYou have someone with a brand new account show up and thier only posts are singing the Praises of something, and even go so far as to tell people not to doubt the item. Sounds suspicious to me. And to me too.by Frans@France - General
ABS or PLA? I had to retune the slic3r settings for my 12v 3.00mm E3D volcano completely. Most importantly I had to increase the nozzle temperature for ABS @layer 0.9mm (used to be 0.1 or 0.2mm) to ~260C (used to be 210C) and slow down the print to around 25mm/s (used to be 100-120mm/s). I needed to change these two settings because the ABS didn't stay long enough in the nozzle to get heated upby Frans@France - General