Quotearnaud31 Generally I find that parts with such large foot print are very difficult to remove from the bed after a print. That's one of the advantages of printing PLA direct on glass. The print adheres well while printing - provided you have the bed level and the nozzle height just right to get a good first layer - but when you cool the bed to room temperature, the print almost falls off.by dc42 - Ormerod
Did you by any chance send the commands in lower case, e.g. m503 instead of M503?by dc42 - Ormerod
Those parts look great! Not sure I would want to make the bed out of ABS, but I guess you can easily bolt aluminium sheet to it when necessary. Regarding those pesky clips, see for an alternative that only takes up 3mm at each end.by dc42 - Ormerod
I'm not sure I would want to clamp the nut. If something goes wrong and the machine tries to drive the print head down into the bed, currently the z-nut comes out of the bottom of the nut trap and no damage is done. This has happened several times to me, e.g. when the IR sensor wires have come off.by dc42 - Ormerod
Yes, I can see that in the firmware source code. The web interface processes the M23, M30 and M112 commands separately, before passing the gcode to the common code that handles both serial and web requests. M23 is also handled in the common code.by dc42 - Ormerod
Pin 4 on the expansion connector is /RESET.by dc42 - Ormerod
I solved my z-screw wobble with the second replacement z-driven gear I printed. This time used a vice instead of a hammer to get the nut in the gear. I also replaced the threaded rod by a hardened steel one, and used a brass nut in the z-nut trap instead of a steel nut. And of course applied some light machine oil.by dc42 - Ormerod
The Ormerod firmware should work on the Arduino Due if you add the appropriate extra hardware, or modify the firmware not to need it.by dc42 - Ormerod
The customised firmware is at and is only 5 days old. It is essentially the 0.57a release plus the extra support for Matt's web interface, and support for modulated IR sensors (as well as the standard one).by dc42 - Ormerod
Yes, G28 with no operands runs homeall.g. It shouldn't be moving to X=100. I don't see how your homex.g and homey.g are supposed to work. In homex.g you appear to be homing X, then moving the X origin out 20mm. Then in homez.g you are moving the head back to the original X=0, not over the tape. I have my white tapes (which work better than foil) in the corners, they are 18mm wide, and X=53 is aboby dc42 - Ormerod
I don't believe the baud rate setting in Pronterface makes any difference when communicating with the Duet, but I haven't tried low baud rates.by dc42 - Ormerod
Quotedmould Quotedc42 QuotePaulHam Does the paper/tape need to be underneath the kapton tape? Only if you want to print right up to the corners where the tape/paper is. Except that you cannot put the tape on the corners of the glass. The tape must be offset in the -ve X direction due to the displacement of the sensor from the nozzle and cannot be at the Y edges because the head fouls the clipsby dc42 - Ormerod
QuotePaulHam Does the paper/tape need to be underneath the kapton tape? Only if you want to print right up to the corners where the tape/paper is.by dc42 - Ormerod
To get auto bed levelling working well using the original IR sensor, you need to avoid bright sunlight or incandescent light. Also use white tape or paper instead of the aluminium tape.by dc42 - Ormerod
If you load my latest binary from , the file limit is increased to 42. I recommend you use Matt's web interface with it.by dc42 - Ormerod
Stepper motor drivers normally work in constant current mode, so the current will be whatever the stepper driver board is set to. You may be able to run the Duet stepper drivers at 1.5A if you use a small fan to cool the board.by dc42 - Ormerod
There may still be a jumper inside, if you don't mind breaking the sticker and voiding the warranty.by dc42 - Ormerod
Do you definitely need to run the stepper motors at 2.5A?by dc42 - Ormerod
That means that the command in config.g to put the firmware in Marlin emulation mode has not run. Check config.g is correct on the SD card. If you haven't already replaced the supplied SD card by a better one, do so.by dc42 - Ormerod
Check your psu, many of them are either 80-260v universal input, or have a switch or internal jumper to select 110V input.by dc42 - Ormerod
You may wish to try running the pc and the Ormerod from one surge-protected socket strip.by dc42 - Ormerod
Quotearnaud31 I seriously doubt that people printing around the clock (that includes me) can be bothered with reapplying cement or patching blue tape, warming vinegar up etc. I don't warm up the vinegar. I warm up the bed, wipe it with a paper towel moistened with cold vinegar, and start printing.by dc42 - Ormerod
Having struggled with applying Kapton tape, and experimented with using Marley solvent pipe adhesive instead, I'm now getting good results printing direct on glass. So I'm wondering why RRP and others bother with the Kapton tape? Is there some advantage to using Kapton with PLA that I have missed? For anyone interested in trying this: 1. Set slic3r to use a bed temperature of 80C for the firby dc42 - Ormerod
I did a successful print direct on glass this evening. Based on the recommendations in another post to this forum (sorry, I can't remember who I have to thank for this), I first cleaned the glass with acetone to remove finger marks, then heated the bed to 80C, then wiped it with kitchen towel moistened in vinegar, then dried it with kitchen towel. The print stuck to the glass well, but on coolingby dc42 - Ormerod
Quotedmould One thing to consider: When you take a reference measurement, you are measuring the distance of the nozzle from the bed, not the IR sensor. You may think that the difference in height between the two is a fixed value so doesn't matter, but its value changes if the slope of the glass changes between prints (because the bed has moved). So the reference height really needs to be adjusby dc42 - Ormerod
Quotejmgiacalone I have also stumbled upon something whilst trying to improve the hot end thermistor readings at room temperature. The arduino libraries set the default ADC resolution to 10 bits, but using analogReadResolution(), we can set this to 12 bits. This gives a resolution of less than one micron with the sensor a couple of mm from the target surface. Although that may help with the tempby dc42 - Ormerod
The Duet uses A4982 stepper drivers, datasheet at . They can handle 2A in theory, but that is probably with better heatsinking than they have on the Duet. 24V is no problem, the Duet board can handle 35V. Duet board details are at .by dc42 - Ormerod
I always heat the bed to 60C before doing z-homing or bed compensation, and I still get a blobby first layer on the first few print attempts of the day. So in my case, it isn't for lack of preheating.by dc42 - Ormerod
Quotetru168 Yes, I soldered the USB before I assemble the kit. None of commercial printers / CNC / etc will use micro USB because its not long lasting. Micro-USB seems adequate for charging mobile phones, and they get connected/disconnected very frequently over their ~2 year lifetime. But the Duet could just have easily used full-size USB. I'm constructing a wishlist for the next revision ofby dc42 - Ormerod