Show all posts by user
Anything related to printer controllers not being Duet, RAMPS or Sanguinololu: microprocessors, motor and heater driver circuitry, gEDA/KiCAD issues, soldering tips, etc.
Re: Filament slipping - 11 years ago
15 mins and I will upload some, cause I am reprinting the axle right now and will mount another bearing i found lying around. Maybe it was poor bearingby Capinho - General
Filament slipping - 11 years ago
Hello everyone. I am using Aitrippers v3 bowden extruder with MK7 gear from reprapworld.com. However, my filament keeps slipping on the gear/bearing. Gear spins normally, bearing seems to be struggling, but also turns a little. I am running 1.7mm ColorFabb PLA with e3d v6 bowden hotend at 200 degrees. Hotend is not jammed. I have tried adjusting bearing pressure against the gear, but there seemsby Capinho - General
Kossel mini motors struggling - 11 years ago
Hello everyone. I am trying to move my mini Kossel, but I amt struggling with some issues. When i home all axes, they move fast and smooth to the endstops (really fast i mean). However, if i try to move my axes for example G0 X50 Y70, they move really slow, and motors are roaring and vibrating very loud. What could be wrong here? Feedrates? I could add video if needed, but i guess everyone here uby Capinho - General
Re: Ramps 1.4 problem - 11 years ago
Many thanks everyone, set my stepper voltage to 0.68, works perfectly. thanks again, guys.by Capinho - General
Re: Ramps 1.4 problem - 11 years ago
Allright, I have plugged my A4988 drivers and motors into my 3Drag board, they worked. After i connect them to my Ramps, they dont work smooth, they vibrate, rotate and roar randomly. I set my Vref to 0.55V. I have also all three microstepping plugs installed, whereas there are no microstepping plugs on my 3Drag board, could these be the issue?by Capinho - General
Re: Ramps 1.4 problem - 11 years ago
I have managed to get over issues, everything works now, but steppers vibrate and roar like crazy. What Vref should i set for my 1.7A stepper motors?by Capinho - General
Re: Ramps 1.4 problem - 11 years ago
Thanks for the reply. I have everything but endstops plugged in.by Capinho - General
Ramps 1.4 problem - 11 years ago
Hello everyone, I have almost finished my Kossel mini assembly. However, when i try to power up my electronics board, strange things happen. When i plug arduino mega alone, it connects perfectly and i can upload the code to the board. Whenever i plug my Ramps board onto Arduino and connect them to my laptop, it connects at first, then disconnects after like 5 seconds. I hear the disconnect sounby Capinho - General
Setting Marlin software for Kossel mini - 11 years ago
Hello everyone, I am almost finished with my Kossel mini build. Does anyone know a good guide, how to properly set up Marlin configuration? thanksby Capinho - Delta Machines
Re: Z axis artifact - 11 years ago
I have did some research about my heatbed, I have PID heating mode enabled. Probably will adjust PID settings, cause they were not adjusted, but they seem to be fine (no temperature jumping, it looks constant)by Capinho - Printing
Re: Z axis artifact - 11 years ago
Quotemmemetea Hi, I've found a similar problem after having installed a heated bed on my Prusa i3. A similar print without the heating would have a comparatively much better quality. First I've blamed the effect of the dilation of the heated bed but the root cause was the bang-bang mode that was apparently affecting the quality of the print. After having switched the bed to PDI heating mode, theby Capinho - Printing
Re: Z axis artifact - 11 years ago
Gordon, my belts, bearings etc are pretty tight and seem to look good. Does anyone have any ideas how to solve these wavy walls and Z axis lines? Here is the album with some more photosby Capinho - Printing
Z axis artifact - 11 years ago
Hello everyone. I have just printed this owl with white filament and I notice some kind of z axis artifact. It doesnt seem like wobble for me, more like skipped layer or something. Would you guys mind taking a look and giving a hint what is the possible cause? Thanks. I am printing layer height of 0.1575 mm, I have calculated it from prusacalculator, as my wanted layer height was 0.15mm. I am uby Capinho - Printing
Re: How to solve these issues? - 11 years ago
Thanks for your reply. My prints won't stick to painters tape without heatbed. And the photos you see, are with 0.4mm extrusion width. Any other ideas?by Capinho - Printing
How to solve these issues? - 11 years ago
Hello everyone. Finally, I am able to get some decent prints, but far away from satisfying ones. If anyone helped me with these issues, I would be grateful. 1. Some Z axis artifact, I dont know, what this could be. It looks like over extruding, or skipped layer. 2. Prints have slightly wider bottom. Is it for printing bed being too close to the nozzle in the begining? Also, vertical artifactsby Capinho - Printing
Re: Traxxas rod end alternatives? - 11 years ago
Quotejaguarking11 I believe its around 45 degrees or there about. Have you managed to try Igus rod ends already?by Capinho - Delta Machines
Re: Traxxas rod end alternatives? - 11 years ago
Does anyone know the tilt angle of traxxas rod ends?by Capinho - Delta Machines
Traxxas rod end alternatives? - 11 years ago
Hello everyone, I am making my delta printer from scratch, and now I came to rod ends. Most popular ones seem to be Traxxas rod ends. Has anyone tried using other rod ends, like Igus Igubal bearings or other stuff? Thank you for infoby Capinho - Delta Machines
Cheap chinese parts - 11 years ago
Hello everyone. I am planning to make a delta style reprap, and I want to make it as cheap as possible. However, I want the best possible quality. There are all components for repraps in shops like aliexpress.com Does anyone have tried using parts from these cheap shops? What are your experiences? Is it worth buying? Here is an example: In Lithuania, Arduino + RAMPS + 5x stepper driver would coby Capinho - General
Belt not in line with platform. - 11 years ago
Hello. I have an issue/question. My belt is on in straight line with platform. (I am adding schematic drawing to understand). Right now, my belt goes like shown in grey line. Does this have any effect on print quality and other stuff? Is it ok, or it is essential to make straight, like shown on red line? Thanksby Capinho - Printing
Wavy pattern - 11 years ago
Hello everyone, after changing my belts to GT2 20 teeth pulley my prints come out with wavy pattern on XY axes. I have attached this mount to one axis, and left another one with stock bearing mount. My print speed is 30 mm/s, 0.2 mm layer height with 0.4mm nozzle. These are photos of the pattern I am getting: Any help would be appreciated.by Capinho - Printing
Slic3r speed too high - 11 years ago
Hello everyone, My slic3r speed is somehow way too big. If I set all speeds 10 mm/sec in the speed tab in slic3r, my printer still moves like it is 50mm/sec. However, if I make it 80 mm/s or so, it moves fast, as it should. What could be the issue without being able to print low speed? Here are my Marlin parameters #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.00, 80.00, 2133.3333, 808.6183} //by Capinho - Printing
Re: Hotend temperature shoots up to max - 11 years ago
Got it working now, it's pathetic, how lame the problem was. Somehow, other layer temperature was set to 400 degrees, and M104 S400 was added to Gcode after 3 layers. Wow..by Capinho - Printing
Re: Hotend temperature shoots up to max - 11 years ago
QuoteMrDoctorDIV Ouch, that's a game that will always be lost. PID needs to be run for every major temp change. The difference between 230C and 260C requires a new PID tuning in my experience. Having jumped to 400C your thermistor is dead I'm sure. You'll have to get a new one. I got my v6 and PID'd at 200C at 8 cycles. I wouldn't print until you get a new thermistor, reporting the wrong temps isby Capinho - Printing
Hotend temperature shoots up to max - 11 years ago
Hello everyone, I have just upgraded to e3d-v6. So after assembling it, I ran PID autotune at 120 degrees for 10 times. Replaced values and now, after printing 3 layers correctly, the setpoint of hotend temperature shoots up to 400 degrees and printing stops due to high temperature (Error M999). Could it be caused because of PID autotune was set to 120 degrees instead of 190 or so? But personallby Capinho - Printing
Re: Brittle PLA prints - 11 years ago
QuoteMrBaz Definitely uneven extrusion. Possibly wrong steps/mm What is your print speed? Get an IR/laser temp gauge. My print speed is 50 mm/sby Capinho - Printing
Re: Brittle PLA prints - 11 years ago
Quote3dkarma What extruder / hot end are you using? Increasing the force on the filament should not have changed the steps per mm, unless your extruder was slipping prior to the recalibration. I am using RepRap 3drag printer with the hotend/extruder it comes with. Reuploaded picby Capinho - Printing
Re: Brittle PLA prints - 11 years ago
While reassembling the extruder, I retightened every single bolt and screw, so the forces pressing fillament have changed, so as a result, my steps/mm changed. Without recalibrated steps/mm, I got like 5mm off. Under extruding, by that you mean my feed rate is too low? If so, even when I turn my extruder gear by hand, the fillament coming out is grey, instead of black, and it looks not the same,by Capinho - Printing
Brittle PLA prints - 11 years ago
Hello everyone. Since my extruder/hotend jammed, I took it apart and after reassembling it, my prints became very brittle. I did not change anything except stepper voltage (from 0.425 to 0.55). I also recalibrated my steps/mm. And now, my prints are fragile, "hairy", not shiny and brittle. Could it be my thermistor issue (isolation or broke) caused while reassembling? However, my temperature reaby Capinho - Printing
Re: Hotend too hot? - 11 years ago
QuoteMrDoctorDIV Do you have an IR thermometer to verify temps? Have you checked the resistance in your thermistor? I will get the IR thermometer tomorrow, the resistance in thermistor is ok ( 80-100 kOhms)by Capinho - Printing