QuoteZavashier What about the new E3D lite6 ? It's not expensive. I want to be able to print hi-temp materials, though, not just PLA and ABS. That's why I bought an E3D-V6 in the first place.by Rich K. - General
Quotenophead Just pushed an E3D branch to Github. Select that branch and then either download the zip or navigate to the STLs and download them individually. The wades block, fan duct and fan bracket are all different. As the machine is built around the extruder the knock on effect is to make it slightly taller, which affects the sheets and the spool holder slightly. Those changes are only relevby Rich K. - Mendel90
I have had bad luck with regular glass - it always cracks in half when I get up to 120 degrees. I haven't had a problem with borosilicate glass.by Rich K. - General
I have found that it can vary with the filament brand, too, I usually buy Filamex brand ABS which sticks to borosilicate with a coating of ABS slug fairly well most of the time, but when I got a good deal on some Makerfarm ABS, I found that it is (a) larger diameter (2.94mm vs. 2.85mm for the Filamex), and (b) sticks to hairspray better than ABS slug.by Rich K. - General
I want to upgrade my Mendel90 to multiple extruders at some point (using a RUMBA controller and stepstick drivers), both for the multi-color capabilities, and also the ability to extrude dissolvable support material like PVA. First off, does anybody make a multi-extruder system that uses 3mm filament? I want to use that because that is what I am set up for and I would rather not have to keep moby Rich K. - General
I bought three spools of black Makerfarm ABS 3mm filament on EBay for $8/1kg spool, plus shipping (came out to $31 total). I am having some delamination problems on taller prints (like a Mendel90 X motor mount) that I wasn't having, at the same speed and temp settings, with the Filamex brand filament I usually buy, though the outside finish is generally nicer with the Makerfarm stuff. I am runninby Rich K. - Printing
Thanks! Have to try these out once the current print job is done (an adjustable Y-axis idler).by Rich K. - Mendel90
I built my Mendel90 "stock" using a Melzi controller. The Melzi works fine, but if I want to use multiple extruders (an upgrade I am planning on some time in the future), I will need to change my electronics. I can get a RUMBA on EBay for about $60, which seems like a reasonable price. Anybody used the RUMBA? How much of a PITA was it to set up? And will I still be able to use my modded 600 wattby Rich K. - Controllers
Quotekreidler I do have the e3d v6 in use on the Dibond with this: Fan Duct e3d There are two versions 25mm and 31mm high. Because I did not know before how it would work with the printer my version is the 25mm with some washers to correct the height to 31mm again. This duct is fixed like the new github one on the origin mount. So it should fit on the sturdy version also. As you can see on the pby Rich K. - Mendel90
I assume the other bolt and wingnut - the ones under the extruder motor - would still be in their same positions?by Rich K. - Mendel90
Doesn't that make it more difficult to remove the extruder assembly if the bed needs re-leveling?by Rich K. - Mendel90
Thanks! Is that version compatible with the "sturdy", then - i.e., is long enough to make up for the added width of the LM10UU bearings? I'm not having any trouble with my wing nuts/screws working with my E3D fan duct. The screw is long enough that it JUST touches the top of the duct. I have to remove the duct to remove the wing-nut, but that's okay because the duct has to come off to remove theby Rich K. - Mendel90
Quoteneildarlow Hi, You measured the remaining filament after extruding 100mm with a ruler? I ask because we Englishmen would recognise a scale as a weighing instrument. I assume it means a ruler to you. If that is the case then your measurement will not be precise enough. I doubt that my aging eyesight can resolve to better than 0.25mm and you need to measure to at least 0.1mm resolution. Regby Rich K. - Mendel90
Quoteneildarlow Hi, M502 resets to factory settings (firmware values) and M500 stores the current settings. They need to be issued in that order.QuoteThat was the one. Brain fart in the short-term memory. Either way, got that accomplished. QuoteneildarlowRegarding evaluating slicers, you need to tune and evaluate your prints with one slicer before trying others or you will be chasing a movingby Rich K. - Mendel90
Quotenophead There is an un-merged pull request for an OpenScad E3D fan duct. That should adjust itself for the sturdy. If you fork Mendel90 on github and merge it then it might give you what you want, but github is not the most straightforward thing to use, else I would have merged it myself but I know that will cause me grief because it clashes with un-merged changes of my own.Ummm...sounds gooby Rich K. - Mendel90
Okay, I THINK I have it figured out. I hooked the printer up to my laptop, turned on Pronterface, hit M200 and M205 (can't remember which order I did that in, though), and it told me I had restored the defaults and saved them to the EEPROM. I reset my firmware to (100.00/100.00) on the extruder and started a print. It still shows signs of over-extrusion (the infill is slightly higher than the perby Rich K. - Mendel90
How do I restore the defaults? Which ones do I need to restore, and to what?by Rich K. - Mendel90
I'm the sort of person who learns best when there is someone actually there with me showing me how to do things. I have a book that is about how to use OpenSCAD and another one about how to use 123D Design, and I still can't make heads or tails out of either one. Unfortunately, I don't know anyone near me who knows how to use any of the free 3D CAD software available...by Rich K. - Mendel90
This is what I currently have for my configuration.h and what I last downloaded to my Melzi: Quote #ifndef CONFIGURATION_H #define CONFIGURATION_H // Mendel90 Z-axis height adjustment #define Z_HEIGHT_MM 187.205 // Mendel90 hobbed bolt and 39:11 Wade's gears #define E_STEPS_PER_MM ((3200 * 39.0)/(11.0 * 6.75 * 3.142)) * (87.00/100.0) //(100/91.0) // This configuration file contains the basicby Rich K. - Mendel90
Okay, STILL having flow rate problems. I have hit "restore failsafes" on the P2, but I STILL need to manually dial back the flow rates to 85 in order to get a decent print. Even setting the flow rate to 85% in the slicer settings (if what ever slicer I am using has that feature available) males no difference. Everything else I do in Marlin seems to "take" - Z height settings, PID settings, etc. -by Rich K. - Mendel90
I really like my E3D-V6 hotend. It produces some of the best ABS prints I have ever made, and does not seem to have the problems I had with my J-head Mk. V-BV. Only problem is, I lack a fan duct for cooling PLA prints. The problem is, I built the "Sturdy" version of the Mendel90, and there is a dearth of accessories available. The LM10UU bearings mean that (1) the slots/holes for mounting any dby Rich K. - Mendel90
Have you checked for loose pulleys? I had a similar problem in the Y axis, turned out to be a loose pulley.by Rich K. - General Mendel Topics
I tried it. It has a lot of features, but I was unsuccessful in getting a good print out of it. Main thing is, it seems to overextrude and move too fast despite my settings. However, I am also using the latest beta version and it may be buggy.by Rich K. - Experimental
Has anybody here tried the new Craftware slicer yet? If so, did you have any luck with it? It looks like it has a lot of features, but I can't seem to get it to make a good print - it seems to overextrude and create a rough surface, despite any adjustments I have made to it. And yes, I have checked the nozzle and filament settings.by Rich K. - Experimental
I won't be using a webcam so lighting for that isn't such a big deal. Ideally, any lights I had would be on flexible mounts so that I could aim them any way I want to.by Rich K. - Mendel90
The trick is going to be finding a way to light up the print area without the lights getting in the way, of course...by Rich K. - Mendel90
Said, "to heck with it", hit the "restore failsafes" in the P2, put the manual flow adjustment back at 100, and the print is still looking good, so I am guessing that was probably it. Still surprised the "100/100" setting produced an over-flow problem, though.by Rich K. - Mendel90
Yeah, the "because I can" factor is part of what governs it. That, plus fewer parts required. Anyway, can you recommend a light that won't cost an arm and a leg?by Rich K. - Mendel90
Come to think of it, yes I have done that - a couple of times, in fact. I will have to check that out when it is done with the current print.by Rich K. - Mendel90