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Anything related to printer controllers not being Duet, RAMPS or Sanguinololu: microprocessors, motor and heater driver circuitry, gEDA/KiCAD issues, soldering tips, etc.
Re: adjusting flow rate - Panelolu2 vs. Marlin firmware? - 10 years ago
My filament measures 2.85mm (checked with a micrometer), and that is what I have it set at in both Slic3r and Cura. I'll have to recheck my firmware upload. I checked the amount fed by marking 100mm above the surface of the extruder on a piece of filament, then telling Pronterface to feed 100mm of filament. My mark ended up flush with the top of the extruder. I had the same flow rate problem withby Rich K. - Mendel90
adjusting flow rate - Panelolu2 vs. Marlin firmware? - 10 years ago
I am having some flow rate issues. When I initially adjusted my extruder in Marlin, I ended up setting it at the default of // Mendel90 hobbed bolt and 39:11 Wade's gears #define E_STEPS_PER_MM ((3200 * 39.0)/(11.0 * 6.75 * 3.142)) * (100.0/100.0) (color enhancement mine) since it was actually extruding 100 mm of filament when I told it to do so. However, I was having probby Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: Wade Reloaded Extruder for E3D-V6? - 10 years ago
You're right, that would be a problem. I wouldn't even know where to begin - it would be sort of like trying to learn Mandarin Chinese, for me. DRAT!by Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: Wade Reloaded Extruder for E3D-V6? - 10 years ago
Quotenophead I don't think backlash matters on the extruder as it only extrudes in one direction. I am thinking about backlash on retraction, though, and the E3D uses MUCH less retraction than a J-head (about 0.6mm or so). Quotenophead I can't see any point to the rotated motor so it could be put back flat to make it shorter. How would I go about doing that? And also, how would I modify the blby Rich K. - Mendel90
lighting? - 10 years ago
I would like to light up the build area on my "sturdy", the better to see how things are doing. I'd like to use the one unused output ("transistor 2") on my Panelolu2 interface board for my Melzi to turn the lighting on and off ("transistor one" controls my bed cooling fan). 1) Can anyone recommend a fairly inexpensive, but bright, LED 12-volt light or lights that would suit my purposes - preferby Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: Wade Reloaded Extruder for E3D-V6? - 10 years ago
Quotenophead If your extruder is working properly you shouldn't need to clean the hobbed bolt. The teeth only get clogged if it slips. If it never slips all you get is a bit of dust that doesn't affect its grip. If you do need to clean it just undo the nuts M8 nuts and slide it out along with the big gear. You then get far better access for cleaning and you don't need to disturb the spring tensiby Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: Slic3r filling in nut traps - 10 years ago
Quotedmould QuoteQuackingPlums The new Mendel90 x-ends have the z-screw nut traps at the top instead of the bottom. If you think about how the plastic is laid down (in particular the order of perimeters and infill) then you'll realise that you cannot have a floating nut-trap. Nophead gets around this by putting a single-layer membrane at the base of the nut trap on which to build the rest of it -by Rich K. - Slic3r
Odd printing problem - 10 years ago
I am in the process of printing out 25 bases for replica WD-11 vacuum tubes, in black ABS. I am using an E3D-V6, 3mm filament, 0.4mm nozzle, direct feed, nozzle temp 235, bed temp 110. It is a LONG print - I started it at 4:45 AM and I believe it will finish about 11:30 PM, When I got home from work, I noticed that the bases, which are about 9mm thick on the bottoms, are rather bumpy, but once thby Rich K. - Printing
Wade Reloaded Extruder for E3D-V6? - 10 years ago
I've been wanting to try using a Wade's Reloaded extruder, due to the easy accessibility of the hobbed bolt for cleaning. Unfortunately, all the versions I have seen have either an odd sort of J-head mount that uses two cross-bolts to retain the hotend, or a groove mount that uses a separate slotted plate with a shallow socket in the bottom of the extruder block to keep things in place. Unfortunaby Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: Belt wear/life expectancy? - 10 years ago
Well, it is certainly running true and not rubbing. One thing I plan to do is replace the idler assembly with one that is easier to adjust for tension, though... my replacement belts are also a tad wider than the original, as well, and I made sure I bought plenty of replacement stock, so we'll see.by Rich K. - Mendel90
Belt wear/life expectancy? - 10 years ago
Out of curiosity, how often should I REASONABLY expect to have to change my drive belts? I have a "sturdy" with T5 belts. I finished building it in late October/early November last year and have been using it a LOT. Plenty of failed prints, until I upgraded my Z motors to ones with more torque (they were slightly underpowered and were getting out of sync) and got a better hotend (went from Chinesby Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: E3D-V6 wild temperature fluctuations - 10 years ago
Seems to be fixed now. I may have had a loose connection. I tightened down my screws on my D-connector breakout board on the extruder motor, and one of the ones for the thermistor, while not flapping in the breeze, seemed a bit more loose than the other one.by Rich K. - Mendel90
Interesting fan duct... - 10 years ago
Found this on Thingiverse: Flexible fan duct for Mendel90 Looks like it might be a possible solution to print cooling fan duct clearance when using an E3D hotend with PLA. I am wondering, though, where one would aim the end of the "hose" - at the hotend nozzle? To one side of the nozzle? Somewhere else?by Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: E3D-V6 wild temperature fluctuations - 10 years ago
I raised the PID MAX to 180. Now it will go up to 230, and holds reasonably steady (won't go under 229, and won't go over 230), but my heated bed struggles to stay steady at 110 - sometimes drops down to 107-109, then goes back up and stays there for a while (maybe I need to redo the PID for that, though).by Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: E3D-V6 wild temperature fluctuations - 10 years ago
With the PID MAX set to 128, the temp won't even get above 220 degrees... Also, what temperature graph should I be looking at? The one in Pronterface?by Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: Adding the bed fan - 10 years ago
Thanks again, Nop! Will I also need a gate pull-down resistor? Also, what controls the length of time it is on?by Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: E3D-V6 wild temperature fluctuations - 10 years ago
Did that, and currently re-trying the print, but it has to have something to do with the motion because as long as it's moving slowly the temp doesn't vary more than +/- 2 degrees. When it moves fast the temp fluctuates MUCH more. Last print, before I re-did the PID, went into ERR: MAXTEMP and shut down (I have MAXTEMP set at 295 degrees with the E3D to allow for hotter-printing materials).by Rich K. - Mendel90
E3D-V6 wild temperature fluctuations - 10 years ago
I installed my E3D-V6 last night, It works much better than the J-head Mk. V-BV it replaced, but I am noticing wild temperature fluctuations while printing - when set for 230, it will dip as low as 202, then jump to 250, then settle down to around 229-230. I used PID auto tune. I read elsewhere that this can be caused by the thermistor flopping around in its socket. Might I be well off seating itby Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: Adding the bed fan - 10 years ago
Anybody have a photo or photos showing how to hook the bed fan up to an output on the Panelolu2 breakout board on the Melzi? Been wanting to do this for a while, but photos help me a lot more than simply describing it...by Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: SOLVED - E3D V6 fan duct placement ("Sturdy" Mendel90)? - 10 years ago
While we're on the subject of fan ducts, this looked like a neat way around the clearance issues on the E3D, as far as a print cooling fan goes: Flexible hotend cooling fan duct - Thingiverse Only thing I am wondering is, where would I aim the air stream when printing PLA? At the nozzle? Or at the print next to the nozzle? Or someplace else?by Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: SOLVED - E3D V6 fan duct placement ("Sturdy" Mendel90)? - 10 years ago
Neat idea, Nop! The clearance issue is more from the top of the fan duct to the bottom of the bolt, though, rather than a side-clearance issue. The end of the bolt just barely clears the top of the fan when I have the duct "inverted" from what the assembly instructions suggest. I'd have to unsnap the fan duct when removing the extruder anyway, since the hole in the X carriage isn't big enough toby Rich K. - Mendel90
SOLVED - E3D V6 fan duct placement ("Sturdy" Mendel90)? - 10 years ago
Just got my E3D-V6 hotend last night, which I am hoping will give me less trouble and better performance than my troublesome J-head Mk. V-BV (as well as expending the variety of feed stock I can use! ). Since I built the "sturdy" model, which uses 8mm threaded and 10mm smooth rods, finding E3D-V6 accessories to print out on Thingiverse has proven to be a challenge. I printed out a new X-carriagby Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: ERR: MAXTEMP problems - 10 years ago
My thermistor is held in place with muffler putty (as is my heater resistor), then I wrapped self-sticking silicon tape to it, but there is burned plastic packed up under the silicon tape. I just got my new E3D V6 in the mail today. Haven't assembled it yet - going over to my grandmother's house to celebrate my mother's, father's, and uncle's birthdays (all fall within a week of each other), soby Rich K. - Mendel90
ERR: MAXTEMP problems - 10 years ago
I am suddenly having problems with my Mendel90. It will be printing just fine, but then it will stop printing and I get "ERR: MAXTEMP" on my Panelolu2. The only thing I can think of is somehow the firmware got screwed up, since I had to re-set my Z-height in the firmware after I moved the machine and re-leveled it. The thermistor is certainly still connected or I would be getting "MINTEMP" errorsby Rich K. - Mendel90
Re: gear teeth keep curling... 
- 10 years ago
What it looks like, once the part is done printing, is once it is off the bed you can see that the teeth have all detached from the bed and curled up slightly while the rest of it stayed flat. The edges of the teeth are not straight because of that.by Rich K. - Printing
Re: gear teeth keep curling... - 10 years ago
No fans blowing except the power supply, and that isn't blowing on the bed at all. I have never had any luck with Kapton tape on a bed - I always end up with bubbles and wrinkles, and it's tedious besides. Less trouble applying hair spray or ABS juice. Haven't tried a lower bed temp. Seems counter-intuitive - wouldn't colder temps tend to make things stick LESS? But I guess if it works... Aby Rich K. - Printing
gear teeth keep curling... - 10 years ago
I am trying to print a Wade Reloaded Extruder with herringbone gears. I am printing everything in ABS, with a fairly strong solution of ABS juice on the plate. I have also tried some "extra hold" hair spray. Filament has been run at 230 to 235 (tried different settings) and the bed at 120. Speed at 60 cm/sec.. I am printing everything - guidler, block, groove mount, and gears - all at once, but Iby Rich K. - Printing
WD-11 vacuum tube base - 10 years ago
I collect, repair, and restore antique radios. I have a few that date to the 1920's, and two of them - a 1921 W. estinghouse Aeriola Sr., and a 1924 RCA Radiola III (also made by W. estinghouse) used a tube called the WD-11. WD-11 tubes were poorly engineered - when they burned out, the filament often drooped and contacted the vacuum tube's plate, which had high voltages running through it (okay,by Rich K. - Look what I made!