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Re: Yoda neckerchief slide - 10 years ago

Well, as it is it looks like I will be printing trophies for the Pinewood Derby next month, as well as a shell to snap over my son's Pinewood Derby wooden block...

by Rich K. - Look what I made!

Yoda neckerchief slide - 10 years ago

My son is a Cub Scout, and he loves Star Wars. I found the STL for this on Thingiverse, and printed it on my Mendel90 "Sturdy". It's large for a neckerchief slide, but I kept the weight way down by making the infill 25%, honeycomb pattern, using Slic3r. Had some trouble the first few tries until I got the support material worked out. Material is Filamex 3mm "sea green" ABS. He loves it!

by Rich K. - Look what I made!

Re: Bolt hobbing discovery - 10 years ago

QuoteMindRealm Less than 10 bucks on ebay Both of my previous hobbed bolts came from EBay, and as I said I was less than satisfied with either of them.

by Rich K. - General

Re: Bolt hobbing discovery - 10 years ago

QuoteOhmarinus Could you show us how the hobbed bolt looks like then? Have to wait a while - it's currently installed in my Mendel90, printing up a Yoda neckerchief slide in glow-in-the-dark green ABS for my Cub Scout son...

by Rich K. - General

Re: PLA Gears VS ABS Gears - 10 years ago

Nophead uses ABS in his Mendel90 kits, including the gears, with the caveat to use white lithium grease on the gears to minimize wear.

by Rich K. - General

Bolt hobbing discovery - 10 years ago

Hey, all! I've bought a couple of hobbed bolts online and wasn't satisfied with either of them (one was not really hobbed, but simply splined). My attempts to "fix" them got indifferent results my "hob jobs" were rather uneven, as I was using 6mm 3 and 4 flute taps in my benchtop mill, running at slow speed, and every time a flute in the tap would come around I'd end up with a gouge in the groove

by Rich K. - General

Difficulty printing Wade's gears - 10 years ago

I am trying to print a complete spare parts set in ABS, starting with the extruder parts. I FINALLY, after much tinkering, frustration, and many failed prints, got a good block. I had been having problems with corner lift causing distortions in the upper layers that deformed the hex holes for the bolt heads and also the socket for the hotend, as well as problems with bridges in the bearing wells.

by Rich K. - Mendel90

Re: Fan duct - larger opening? - 10 years ago

What program did you use to modify the STL? I printed it out, but it turned out to be too long overall. Nophead also modded the design, and it was closer to where it needed to be, but the opening needs to be about 4mm closer to the fan. Due to the rectangular shape of the nozzle block, the corners nearest to the fan were still close enough to the sides of the duct that radiated heat caused the du

by Rich K. - Mendel90

Perimeter flow? - 10 years ago

Is there a way to adjust the perimeter flow in Slic3r? I have noticed when I print things with holes and mating parts (like the hex socket for the bolt-head on a Wade's big gear, or the spool holder halves for my Mendel90), the holes come out a bit too small, and pegs/dowels come out a bit too large, and according to the troubleshooting guide that means the flow rate for perimeters is a bit too m

by Rich K. - Slic3r

Re: Fan duct - larger opening? - 10 years ago

Thanks! Have to try it out after I get done printing a set of spool hangers for my smaller spools. The ones I had printed for me by someone else before my printer was operational work great with full PLA spools, but since ABS is less dense, a full spool of ABS doesn't sit on the bearings well, since the filament completely fills the spool and doesn't leave the spool flanges free to rest on the

by Rich K. - Mendel90

Re: Fan duct - larger opening? - 10 years ago

Thanks!

by Rich K. - Mendel90

Re: Fan duct - larger opening? - 10 years ago

On the Sturdy, the distance between the centers of the mounting bolts is 21mm. The distance between the back of the mounting flange (where it goes up against the front of the X-carriage) and the center of the hole for the hotend is 40mm. If the stock fan duct from the Github files ((fan duct STL for Meldel90 "Sturdy")) is modified, then I would think only the size of the opening would need to be

by Rich K. - Mendel90

Re: Fan duct - larger opening? - 10 years ago

Is there anybody here who is knowledgeable enough in how to use CAD software, who could tweak the STL for the "Sturdy" fan duct so that it has an opening that is 8mm-9mm larger in diameter? I don't know enough about how to use CAD software to do it myself. Okay, I know NOTHING about how to use CAD software.

by Rich K. - Mendel90

Re: Fan duct - larger opening? - 10 years ago

Quote09zx-6r get on thingverse.com.. there is one on there... and the duct is a angled fan with low profile... just search mendel90 duct... theres a few to choose from...i have the same j-head and had the same issue... Which one did you use? And will it fit the "sturdy" Mendel90? The hole spacing is different for the screw holes that mount the fan duct to the X-carriage, between the "dibond" and

by Rich K. - Mendel90

Re: Fan duct - larger opening? - 10 years ago

Nobody? Anybody?

by Rich K. - Mendel90

Re: Bridging in ABS (and other problems...) - 10 years ago

Oops! That's what I get for typing when I'm tired... I'll try your suggestion next and see what happens.

by Rich K. - Slic3r

Re: Bridging in ABS (and other problems...) - 10 years ago

Okay, I have all my extruder parts printed except the small gear, and that is proving to be a PITA. The gear teeth are almost all straight but on just one side a couple of the teeth appear to tip inwards towards the center of the part instead of being straight up and down, and they are distorted. I have tried building a "wall" around the part for its entire height, thinking it could be a draft on

by Rich K. - Slic3r

Re: Bridging in ABS (and other problems...) - 10 years ago

Nophead told me he prints ALL of his Mendel90 parts in ABS. He said that, in his experience, PLA tends to "creep" more.

by Rich K. - Slic3r

Fan duct - larger opening? - 10 years ago

I was wondering - is there a fan duct STL available that has a larger outlet opening than normal - say, about 7-8mm larger interior diameter or so, that still uses the "standard" fan? I am using a J-head type hotend that uses heater cartridges instead of the usual resistor, and while it does a fairly decent job printing ABS, the nozzle block is large enough (due to the need to accommodate a set-s

by Rich K. - Mendel90

Re: Bridging in ABS (and other problems...) - 10 years ago

These are supposed to be Nophead's tried-and-true STL's. Would different batches of ABS have different shrinkage rates? And would changing the fill density make a difference?

by Rich K. - Slic3r

Re: Bridging in ABS (and other problems...) - 10 years ago

That is what I ended up doing, setting it to print each part complete before starting the next.

by Rich K. - Slic3r

Re: Bridging in ABS (and other problems...) - 10 years ago

Only problem I had was with some shrinkage, and I don't know if anything can be done about that. I discovered it when I went to press a set of bearings into the bearing wells on the extruder block (they're normally a tight fit anyway), and the block cracked where the bearing well walls are thinnest. I had used 70% infill (all rectilinear; I don't think honeycomb would bridge very well); don't kno

by Rich K. - Slic3r

Re: Bridging in ABS (and other problems...) - 10 years ago

Printed out the extruder block and idler block last night. Used an initial bed temp of 120, lowered to 115 for subsequent layers, slowed bridging down to 15, raised the filament temp to 230 for all layers, and that seemed to help quite a bit. Bridging isn't perfect, but MUCH improved, and nowhere near the sagging problems I had before. Oh, I also built a 9-layer-high skirt around the base of the

by Rich K. - Slic3r

Re: Bridging in ABS (and other problems...) - 10 years ago

I thought PEEK melted at around 250, or at least started getting soft? I am using a J-head type hot-end, so I can't go TOO high.

by Rich K. - Slic3r

Bridging in ABS (and other problems...) - 10 years ago

Been trying to make spare parts for my Mendel90, starting with a complete Wade's extruder set, and I am running into all sorts of problems. I am running Filamex 3mm white ABS through a .4mm nozzle. I started with my heated bed at 125 degrees for the first layer and 120 for the subsequent layers, and my filament at 220, and had all the parts plated at the same time. I am printing on glass with hai

by Rich K. - Slic3r

Re: Y axis all over the place - why? - 10 years ago

My belts and pulleys do match correctly as far as tooth mesh goes, but I have noticed they are SLIGHTLY eccentric. It still turned out pretty decent prints until the hotend had a meltdown yesterday and took out part of the Melzi (or maybe it was vise-versa)...

by Rich K. - Mendel90

Re: More problems (hotend) - 10 years ago

Quotenophead If you are not using the expansion port it is possible to re-route the thermistor input to one of those pins and change the firmware to match.Is the expansion port where my Panelolu2 normally plugs in? I normally control the printer from the P2 and only use the USB computer interface for Z-height calibration and firmware updates. Can one of the two sets of pins on the P2 Melzi adapte

by Rich K. - Mendel90

Re: More problems (hotend) - 10 years ago

Well, I at least salvaged the nozzle/heater block, PTFE liner, and set screw for the hotend, so if I can get a new PEEK body, resistor, and thermistor then I will at least have a hotend. Still need a new Melzi, though.

by Rich K. - Mendel90

Re: More problems (hotend) - 10 years ago

Okay, it has to be the board, because I tried an experimental temperature run and while the temp read 98 degrees the Chinese hotend burned up. Looks like I am in the market for a new Melzi and a new hotend... >

by Rich K. - Mendel90