Quotenimrod i printed with SD Card. this is my second Kossel. the first, from t3p3 with arduino and Marlin works very smooth, and there aren't any Problems like this. the only differents between both printers are the Motors (the "old" have a higher Torque), the heated bed and the stepper driver ("old" 1/16 vs "new" 1/32) also the firmware and the igus gliders are the same. The 1/32 drivers taby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotelolocaledo Hi all, I have a strange behavior with my Duet. All works fine however, with all my printings, after 10 or 15mn, the print stops ..... 10 or 15s without moves and then continue to print the job without error. Any ideas about that ? Laurent Printing from computer or SD?by Koenig - Controllers
QuoteQdeathstar so, then, the things you need would require things to be custom made? like custom carbon fiber rods, I imagine that would be extremely expensive. Seems my assumption on the rods is erroneous, the consensus is larger diameter tube is enough. The flatness of the bed and ridgity of the frame is Important. The bed/heating of is probably where the main part of the budget should beby Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteBigkahuna2187 Quoteo_lampe QuoteBigkahuna2187 Silly question. Is the power supply suppose to be 110 or 220V. Also, which wire goes to L and N for AC power. Thanks Aloha, if you have to ask such things, it's better to let someone else with experience do that for you. -Olaf Thanks for the useful information. I'm quite capable of building this, I'm just trying to double check my work soby Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper Titanium maybe? Perhaps, but it would cost you, I don't think tubes would cut it, might even work with carbon fiber, just not tubes. You could also go with existing material, carbon fiber tubes, but print very slow to keep the accuracy.by Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteQdeathstar I saw a build on here that had a build size of 300mm, at 3m tall.. but what if someone wanted a 600mm build size? Is that possible for someone who doesn't have access to special machinery? Or is it just no practical.? I read a few posts from 2013 that said it wasn't possible, but that was a long time ago... Of course it is possible, the thing that is holding back is the diagonalby Koenig - Delta Machines
The ridges seem to be more pronounced where the effector makes the biggest change in direction/accelerations, they are "hardly" noticeable at the top of the vase. To regular to chalk down to differences in filament diameter. Hard to see in the pictures if the lines are over extruded (outwards all around) or shifted in the XY-plane (going inwards on one side of the print and outwards on the otheby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotehercek Quoten8bot hercek, what type of ball joints are you using? I'm planning for a larger scale prototype and will not be using magnets in all likelihood. I'm not sure why the magnets would necessarily weigh more than a typical spherical rod end, though. There is the ball and the steel rod end. Are you comparing the weight to plastic rod ends like the Igus ones? I use MP Jet ball link (Ø 7by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta Quotejroever PS: so much prefer to manually level with some simple leveling screws vs auto. Still looking for a good more advanced leveling mechanisms - any leads? Before switching to manual calibration with screws I was thinking why with (finally, after hours of calibration) very consistent bed height map in Repetier my first layer is so unleveled. I have only one explanation -by Koenig - Delta Machines
Wasn't there something about the FD not being up to the task, it needed some modifications to get it to work..... There's more information about this in the "Controllers" forum.by Koenig - General
Quotejroever Had my Rev A for a while and everything calibrated nicely ... but always noticed these weird jolts on my extruder - thought in the beginning these were actually retracts but checked the code - no retract commands ... Finally came across somebody with a Rostock Max mentioning something similar - linked to #define AXIS_RELATIVE_MODES {false, false, false, false} in Configuration_adv.hby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 The reason I suggested printing calibration objects was not to check the sizes, but to look at the print quality. Your calibration object prints show the same holes in some places that you get with the dog. Sort of for me as well, but it is still important to know if the objects are right size to get the extrusion right... My though was that since his latest dog looked better in some pby Koenig - Printing
I would also measure the filament on several places over a long length, say 3-4 meters. I have seen others have problem with eSun filament.by Koenig - Printing
Quoteusen QuoteKoenig The round object is it 15mm in all directions? What are the measurements of the biggest square in both directions? From bottom to top layer: 14.92 - 14.95 - 14.96 - 15 - 14.97 mm Square size: 10x10x15 mm 20x20x10 mm 30x30x5 mm (I measured 29.63x29.75x4.92 mm) Cylinder size: D15xH15 So you need to adjust your XY steps some (based on your measurements on the big square)by Koenig - Printing
The round object is it 15mm in all directions? What are the measurements of the biggest square in both directions?by Koenig - Printing
From the looks of those pictures and assuming the other printer is calibrated correctly, I'd have to say that you need to perform a calibration of your printer. Your fist print was smaller than the reference, your new print is larger and elongated in the nose direction. So you need to print something easy like a calibration cube (as previous poster mentioned) and then measure it and recalculateby Koenig - Printing
Quoten8bot G0 typically commands an uncoordinated move, which will make every carriage move immediately to the desired end position, causing the direct path you mention. Ahh! Was wondering about difference between g0 and g1 earlier, but dismissed it at the time, using g1 for all moves worked just fine.... Learned something new today as well! Thank you.by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian Tumbledown, if this only happens while transiting then it's due to the Marlin firmware, and nothing to worry about. The reason is due to the geometry of a delta printer, and the firmware not calculating every point in space between two points. In some cases when transiting, the firmware just calculates the final point, and drives all the motors at a certain speed to get there. Thiby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotejonh5498 On another note, what replacement board did you go with? I went with a duet. Was mainly interested to see if the segment free printing would be an improvement. If I had known what I know now when I bought this kit I wouldn't have bought it, not that it is all bad, it just didn't do for me what I wanted. I have changed everything except for horizontal extrusions, heatbed, endstopby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta Quotejonh5498 So I have the Rev B kit built and in operation, well sorta. It homes in the wrong direction. Someone suggested that I rotate the motor lead connectors 180 degrees at the RAMPS board. I don't think that will solve the problem without creating other problems. Anyone else seen this? My build uses 240 mm rods hole to hole. I also have the 2004 LCD/SD card reader that I hby Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteSwengson Hello All, I have a new board, the board can run RAMPS 1.4. The board have 6 connectors for the sensors... X - and X+, Y- and Y+, Z- and Y+ But i dont know how I can connect the 3 wires from the sensor to the board. I have 3 sensors in the printer. but on the board I have 6 connections. How can I connect the 3 sensors with the board? Thank you all. I am assuming it is a 3D-prinby Koenig - General
Post your slicer settings. EDIT: And your configuration.h + what does your shim gauges tell you when Z=0?by Koenig - Printing
Quotesolomondg How is this better than Simplify3D? Well, Open Source is a big plus over S3D. For my comment on the project: In that video I can't really see any advantages over the other slicers out there. The ultimate slicer for me would have S3D settings and time to slice + CraftWares Gcode viewer.by Koenig - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Quoteo_lampe No way the printer radius is 200mm. Maybe you meant printbed diameter?! My delta is bigger, and I'm struggling with 140mm print radius. -Olaf If they use repetier the "Printer Radius" describes a different measurement than what is used in Marlin or RRF.by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quoten8bot I couldn't find a metric indicator, I don't know if they even make metric dial indicators.. and I'm in Canada! Sorry for not helping with the real issue, but:by Koenig - Controllers
QuotePARADOXICLES it fails inatany, it dosnt sticks from the first second.... its exactly like printing, except no object is made..... its the 3d printer version of airguitar Sounds to me like you have to redo the calibration. If your nozzle is not close enough to the bed when the print starts nothing will stick, it must be close enough to "push" the filament against the bed. Some slicers have oby Koenig - Printing
Quotejonh5498 So I have the Rev B kit built and in operation, well sorta. It homes in the wrong direction. Someone suggested that I rotate the motor lead connectors 180 degrees at the RAMPS board. I don't think that will solve the problem without creating other problems. Anyone else seen this? My build uses 240 mm rods hole to hole. I also have the 2004 LCD/SD card reader that I haven't installedby Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteLegrand Next up is that I will try to figure out why it's not going to the center of the bed when I hit the center (X/Y) button in Pronterface..... Do you mean it doesn't go down to the bed, or that it just doesn't center in the plane it is over the bed? Have you set that you have a circular build platform in pronterface?by Koenig - Delta Machines
Looks like you are using to high temperature. The temp might be suitable when printing larger parts but for so small parts the layers do not have time to cool down enough before next layer comes around. It also helps directing a fan towards the print.by Koenig - Printing