If you're no planning on doing dual extruders there's no real reason to get 0.85.by Koenig - Delta Machines
I have very limited knowledge about this but I think your accelerations look very high. Try lowering them, I think I saw somewhere that a setting of 1000 is a good start, you can increase it later.by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotethetazzbot Printer was printing fine with ultimaker arduino combo but I wanted "modern electronics"... So i upgraded to duet and dc42 firmware and spent two solid days trying to get a print. Travles are nice and smooth, endstops correctly set. Motor current set at 650. Belts tight everything normal but the layers are aweful and look like my prusa when it skips and shifts the layers. Printinby Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteJ-Max Hi again, I print ABS @235°C and teflon does not matter. Maybe if you print nylon or PETG ? ++JM I think PTFE is good up to 240°C, if you are going to print something hotter you need to go all metal. Reference for the temperature:by Koenig - Reprappers
First thing that comes to my mind is you get better stability of the hotend at higher speeds/accelerations. Might be wrong about this though. Gonna try for my self, ordered a metal effector from robotdigg a couple of days ago. I would like to see a metal effector that goes with balls/magnets though, where you fasten the balls to the effector and have the magnet inside a PTFE-cone on the rod.by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotedavidf01 Ok so I have my towers and center adjusted so that when they pass the paper test and I use the m114 g code I get: X tower z position is at 1.0 Y tower z position is at .3 Z tower position is at .3 and center on the build plate is at z .9 This is where I get a little lost. What do I do next? Do I keep adjusting the endstops or do I move ahead and adjust the smooth rod offset? I canby Koenig - Delta Machines
Sorry if my question seems daft but... The upside of of the trouble to getting to vacuum would be?by Koenig - General
Don't really see it on that photo, it's kind of blurry. Anyway, if it's not a printer-error you can activate "Allow gap fill when necessary" under the "advanced" tab. That is a setting that fills small gaps on thin walls if the perimeters are not wide enough to fill all.by Koenig - Printing
This with 0 Z-lift tends to give other problems though. The fine stringing that always is there with PETG tends to accumulate on the nozzle to the point that it leaves a small blob somewhere. With Z-lift enabled this mostly happend so it would leave the blob right outside a perimeter so that the nozzle on the next pass just gently pushed it aside, but with no lift it leaves the blob right in theby Koenig - Printing
QuoteSmallj Quote3DRapidClone QuoteSmallj Quote3DRapidClone download the firmware, and also download the Arduino IDE. Hook up the Arduino board and open the .ino file in the folder. Go to configuration.h and this is where you change your settings. Make sure you are set to Atmega 2560 and the right com port, then flash your firmware on. I recommend Repetier instead of Marlin though for Deltas. (by Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteSmallj QuoteKoenig QuoteSmallj What is the difference between auto level and auto calibration? How would I get around the limited 5 volt power? Could the limited power cause the servo to twitch. It only twitches when the motor are energized, so I am guessing yes, but I still want to ask The twitching servo is not an uncommon problem when also trying to use a LCD, hence the specific questionby Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteDragoslaV I believe with Olaf's design the air can only escape trough the bottom, therefor cooling the object. That is a really neat concept. I don't really think that, it would the blow straight on the heater block, which then would make it real hard to get working temperate. I would rather think that one "hole" should be left open or that the fan should be mounted the other way round inby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotedavidf01 Ok I may have something not right. When I home the printer with the G28 command my endstops report triggered. Should the Z_min not be triggered here? Reporting endstop status x_max: TRIGGERED y_max: TRIGGERED z_min: TRIGGERED z_max: TRIGGERED When I bring it down to Z0 it reports Reporting endstop status x_max: open y_max: open z_min: TRIGGERED z_max: open How can my Z_min be triby Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteSintensity QuoteKoenig You have calibrated your printer? I might be wrong here, but I think you must calibrate the printer before performing any bed level probing. When you have your nozzle at the bed what Z-height do you have? Sorry, I must have misunderstood the instructions entirely. I was under the impression that this was what I was doing with running the G28 command. In that case,by Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteSintensity A bit of an update from my earlier post. When I raise the slides all the way to the endstops, the values on M119 show up as: x_max: triggered y_max: triggered z_min: open z_max: triggered When I lower the probe all the way to the bed, the values on M119 show up as: x_max: open y_max: open z_min: triggered z_max: open That's good, according to the calibration instructions. Howevby Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteSmallj What is the difference between auto level and auto calibration? How would I get around the limited 5 volt power? Could the limited power cause the servo to twitch. It only twitches when the motor are energized, so I am guessing yes, but I still want to ask The twitching servo is not an uncommon problem when also trying to use a LCD, hence the specific question from me. I think the bby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotekelen87 Thanks for the response! The fan cooling the hot end down did come to mind. But when I look at the extruder gear while printing it goes at a slow "normal speed" during perimeters. But during the infill process you can see the gear has drastically sped up. I wouldn't think you'd be able to see full revolutions of the gear within a couple seconds, even if my hot end is indeed hot enouby Koenig - Reprappers
I don't know about KISSlicer, but I know that other slicers have a setting to set "infill extrusion-rate" if KISSlicer has such a setting try to lower it. If I may ask: What are the advantages?by Koenig - Reprappers
QuoteSmallj Quote3DRapidClone download the firmware, and also download the Arduino IDE. Hook up the Arduino board and open the .ino file in the folder. Go to configuration.h and this is where you change your settings. Make sure you are set to Atmega 2560 and the right com port, then flash your firmware on. I recommend Repetier instead of Marlin though for Deltas. (same process) good luck. wherby Koenig - Delta Machines
I've been playing around some earlier trying to get that smooth surface of PETG, and I've also found that lowering the temp or aiming for slight overextrusion helps a little. I guess both ways actually does the same, raise the pressure in the nozzle. But this certainly makes a huge difference. Good find I'll have to say, and thanks for sharing.by Koenig - Printing
Which electronics are you using? If you are on RAMPS it sounds like you forgot to install the small jumpers underneath the drivers or possibly installed them the wrong way. Those jumpers activate different modes of microstepping, if not installed the motors will only do full steps.by Koenig - General
QuoteDownunder35m Also the speed for the retraction should always be a bit slower than what you can extrude without problems. Otherwise all you do is eating filament... I don't quite follow you here. I usually retract with 70-80mm/s at an acceleration of 3600mm/s² That is much faster than I can extrude, if I try to extrude that fast it starts skipping steps. I could probably go way higher in tby Koenig - Printing
Quotedjtrance2 Thanks for the link. This is very good procedure. However, there is one part that seems a bit difficult: 1- it seems we need to adjust for the tower endstops manually using the screws that fasten the endstops to the extrusion aluminium. I can see 0.3mm adjustments to be very difficult to do by hand, are there setinngs in the firmware to adjust those distances instead? You can useby Koenig - Reprappers
Quotedc42 In response to more than one post above: 1. If you want to achieve the effect of moving the X tower a little closer to the centre, you can achieve that as follows. Your towers form an isosceles triangle instead of an equilateral one, with the base longer than the sides. So apply a negative correction angle to the Y tower, and a positive angle correction of equal magnitude to the Z toweby Koenig - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quotepkm Koenig I mean changing the points in bed.g file. Put them in a square vertices instead of a triangle/hexagon etc. That might improve the calibration. Or not. Still worth trying. I can tell you that I have identified what makes me want a adjustable tower-offset. Two of my horizontal extrusions are 301mm long whilst the others are 300, both the 301 sits on the same side, the side oppositby Koenig - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I have noticed I get a lot of blobbing if I don't use retraction when printing PETG (leaky e3d v5 clone), but as you say it introduces small bubbles in the print. how much retraction did you end up with? I was perhaps thinking that some extra start-length after retraction would help as well.by Koenig - Printing
Quotepkm Koenig I agree with David here. Angular positions + delta radius + origin shift is identical to tower offsets + delta radius. But nevertheless you don't get the result. I would try another set of calibration points, different number of points etc. You are totally right, this is what I'm asking for here. Just that you cannot set this in reprap firmware at the moment. Quotedc42 I have coby Koenig - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quotedc42 I suspect the problem you are having with XY ratio not being correct is due to backlash in your joints, or one pair of diagonal rods having unequal spacings at the upper and lower ends, or diagonal rods being not quite the same lengths, or something similar. I've "zeroed" all my backlash, using decent quality linear rails, and a set of haydn's rods (magnets in the rods and balls on theby Koenig - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quote3didd hey, I have built a large format printer 405x450x600. Was trying to get away with using 2x Z Axis Stepper Motors, but I really need 3x Motors, in a Triangle. Can I please some advice on driving 3x Stepper motors in parallel from the Duet/Duex Boards. When driving 2x Motors the Chips on the Board get quite warm/almost to warm to touch. I have added heat sinks and cools fans to the boaby Koenig - Controllers
Quotecman8 What I did to the endstops is hold them down with my thumb and with the other hand loosen the bolt. Then slide ever so slightly up or down to calibrate. as far as positions I used exactly how it stated in the manual. It will work , in fact you might be able to go a bit more depending on your rod length. If your scared of hitting the bed instead of having Z at 0 change it to like 10 orby Koenig - Delta Machines