is there also a command to change the heating method of the hotend? Like it is possible to do with the heatbed - PID/Shots?by redblunt - Ormerod
i soldered out the clamp part and directly soldered the cables to the board. It seems like the soldered connectors just broke loose. First 2h print worked out fine again I was checking the powercables every now and then - they are not hot as before maybe a little warm. Thanks David im sitting about 1000km south. I think im going to change to the LED PSU since I already have one sitting here foby redblunt - Ormerod
what do you think caused this? I am kind of worried running the machine again, not being sure -.- Maybe I should add this: the calbe was cold on the Duet side only showed extreme heat next to the connectorsby redblunt - Ormerod
having another look at the machine running 10min long i found this: and a little metal flake on the duet. I remind having seen a burnt power mod before. Unfortunatly i cant find this spare on reprapLtd.by redblunt - Ormerod
thank you, sweet they opened their shop again? If I have to Ill propably take the old one. Ill continue failurechecking tonight.by redblunt - Ormerod
today my Duet PCB started turning off a couple of times. I will test further. But Id like to know were to get an replacement and maybe alternatives?! Kind regardsby redblunt - Ormerod
is this the first print that does this? did you calibrate using the axis compensation?by redblunt - Ormerod
hi guys to design stuff i am using rhino. now i am looking for a GNU gcode generator to run a marlin powered CNC with it. what i am looking for is pretty much Slic3r only for CNC and not 3d printing regards redby redblunt - General
hi guys im looking to built a cnc for quite a while since a week i am reading about the MPCNC from vicious1. But could not find anything here. Does anyone know it? Price and modularity are ideal lfor my understandingby redblunt - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
that sounds like an very good idea if you are on it Id like to offer you my help with thatby redblunt - Ormerod
i once thought of bearing at the tip of the x-axis to rise on a blanc rod that is parallel, to the x-axis ones on the back, wich would be tied to the x-axis aluminium profile only that way you would have to set the printer higherby redblunt - Ormerod
hey guys i think my coldend is bugging me again. for now I think im going to get a new hobbed wheel any idea were to get it?by redblunt - Ormerod
im not sure if you should keep the free x-arm because its swinging. definitly need to change the cold end section this part is still driving me nuts. the modularity of it should be maintained i think. maybe plan it to have an optional casing for it? less heating time, less noiseby redblunt - Ormerod
ok thank you very much Erik I will reprint the parts and modify the motor. Finally its running without any issuesby redblunt - Ormerod
ok ill try to setup the original piece and print a spare with it to check wether it is running. can anyone supply a link with a better working coldend than the original one from reprap?by redblunt - Ormerod
ok ill try to setup the original piece and print a spare with it to check wether it is running. can anyone supply a link with a better working coldend than the original one from reprap?by redblunt - Ormerod
The big gear side of the coldend is kinda slid out but I guess this is not the actual problem beacause hobbed wheel does not seem to run very circular. ..so I might decrease distance between the hobbed wheel and the bearing ..or make the bearing thicker ..or try a new screwby redblunt - Ormerod
ok, extruding more manually i noticed the problem occurs always on the same spot marked on the big extruder gear. The ptfetube inserting ito the hotend seems to be ok as i cut the inside out pretty much. The black partial circle does not feed correctly. The gears themselfes seem to grab good into each other. Ill take the hotend to pieces and investigate furtherby redblunt - Ormerod
QuoteCould you first layer be too low? First layer ist set to 0.3mm as all layers. Quotedo the hotend swing freely around the smooth rod? Hotend can swing about 3mm up. Quoteany extra weight added to the hotend recently? No extra weight. Quotewhat happens if you set first layer zero You mean in the slic3r setting? Did not try that Quoteis the push form extruder able lift the nozzle?by redblunt - Ormerod
still only on the first layer it stop printing occansionally. Any one got Ideas? Edit: Tightened the coldend so it grabs more agressive didnt seem to change much Speed is as said above and temprature set to 246°C; +-1°C whily printingby redblunt - Ormerod
dont know what happend back there but going slower seems to workby redblunt - Ormerod
Did I say it worked? the first two layers no problem then it started stopping again. Ill reduce the speed of infill down from 35mm/s to 31mm/s and the increase the heat from 245 to 248°C and report backby redblunt - Ormerod
i cut the unextrudet filament several times and did not find any bubbles! Extruding the wet filament gave me small bubbles not bad as Erik showed but still noticable. I have my printer set up in a 10m² room with a lot of other technique when everything is running and its like 30°C outside its about 35°C inside and i sweat like a bull. And the hotter the air the more humidity it can have. I justby redblunt - Ormerod
i put my rolls into the oven at 75 - 90°C for about 4 hrs one roll had about 300g of filament on and the other close to 1kg still hearing pop sounds -.- and the print is breaking off. ill try to get some new filament in the meanwhile i store the rolls in two plastic abgs with a anti moisturebag there is a relative humidity of 20% i hope in a couple of weeks it can be used again.by redblunt - Ormerod
thanks Erik Ill try to dry some in the oven and test it out. thinking about it we had a lot of rain this summer. My filament does not look that bad but it does not break as easy as usual it seems to bend more kind regards redby redblunt - Ormerod
hi all, i have the sudden issue on a fine print - its a grid out of single filament lines, that it randomly cloggs and uncloggs. I printes solid things e.g. iamburnys gearset - no problem as soon as it retracts often it seems to clogg. I tried temperatures from 235 to 260 C° also varied the speed - seems to work better 12mm/s but thats kinda low compared to PLA with 35mm/s. Pushing ABS by handby redblunt - Ormerod
as always dc42 solved it thank you very muchby redblunt - Ormerod
hi community i wondered if it was possible to extend the time the heater has before the software stops heating and posts and error. The Issue i have: because of different surrounding temperatures the heater takes sometimes about 10sec longer than usual then the software posts an error to me: G10 P1 S204 Heating fault on heater 1, T = 197.5 C; still not at temperature 204.0 after 150.220276 sby redblunt - Ormerod