I wish I had a picture but saw a really easy idea at a maker fair the guy took a sharpie pen cap made a loop in the belt around the cap and zip tied the belt loosely then connected up the loose end. After he had it connected up tightened the zip tie to tighten the belt around the pen cap. It was a bush fix type deal but fixed this kids printer in a few minutes. Could print a nicer way of doingby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I think your best bet would be to grab another cheap Ramps 1.4 board ordering the right fuse from digikey will end up costing you more with shipping than grabbing a new board on Amazon. Can just keep your old board for parts and your good to go. Those are thermal fuses reset themselves when they cool down never had one go bad though but its possible. I would make sure you have a fan keepingby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I would grab some of these THB6064 drivers they have a cable that plugs right in the RAMPs board and makes the project upgradable if you want to get some Nema 23's in the future. I run mine at 48 volts. http://www.massmind.org/Techref/io/stepper/THB6064/index.htm I love mine. I setup my system so I can swap back and forth between printer and cnc. Also remember you can get more torque to theby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I have a 460 x 600 x 4mm build plate and it heats pretty slow but love that it has no hot spots so it was a nice upgrade to prevent ABS warping. Really not sure about any thicker though 5mm would be okay, but sure it will be a tough one to heat up need to insulate under the bottom good for sure. I use a silicone heater stuck to the bottom with a thin layer of insulation under it. For electby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Not sure how far you are with your projects, I have been using my DIY machine conversion for about a year swapping the boards back and forth has been a real pain. I have my normal RAMPS 1.4 with external drivers for printing. I have been swapping it over to a TinyG to run CNC Jobs. Over Christmas I was thinking about it and seems like the only reason I was swapping it back and forth was to getby AquaticsLive - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Quick answer would be yes always hook up the ground wire. So I reading your info I am thinking that your power supply is the same one that you are feeding 12 volts to the Ramps with and that you want to give the Ramps board a nice clean 5 Volts. So first step would be to make sure you D1 diode has been removed from the Ramps board that will cut the connection. So the official instructions sayby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
My guess would be that it has a little too much drag on the axis that motor is moving. For troubleshooting disconnect the motor and turn whatever it was trying to move with your fingers. Might be slightly out of alignment. Move it the axis that is overheating back and forth loosen some of the mount screws and try to get it to move as easily as possible. Sometimes just the bearings are a littby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I am actually using 48VDC but yeah tested with 24VDC as well. I am using the THB6064AH MassMind.org Stepper Motor Driver for testing gives me a bigger range to work with.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Just did some testing over the weekend and googling of torque curves of stepper motors and max rpm. Probably a no brainer for some of you, but really taught myself something so figured I would share it or at least post it here for my future self lol. So its always a give and take relationship when it comes to speed and accuracy we all know that. My problem more recently has I upgraded my X-Axiby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Saw you post digital dentist kind of watch yours lol we do allot of the same things. Anyhow how do you turn down the PID frequency. I have stuck with Bang Bang because of the PID cycling too much causing problems. I haven't messed with the PID loops (well beside in quadcopters) much so don't know which number to tweak in Marlin.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I have used the I2C PINS 20 AND 21 to control external boards. So what I did was used those pins to control two external tinkerkit mosfet boards for my hotends. I have the info on my thingiverse. LINK I am not sure if those pins could handle a servo amp draw so use at your own risk. Maybe you could swap some things around though to be safer like how I did mine. The I2C pins are right nextby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Have you made any headway on this, I have been working on mine for over a year swapping back and forth between belt drive and a SFU1204 ball screw installed for my X axis. Printer is a home built 450mm cubed usable size. It has been a super pain to get it setup the tolerances between the slides and the screw, they have to be perfect. You can tell when its not correct when the carriage travelsby AquaticsLive - Mechanics
The newer version got moved to only the Dev branch instead of both and they rolled back to an older version in the release branch. Figured it was worth mentioning just noticed that after you said the pins_Ramps_13.h was missing from the realease folder of the firmware you downloaded. If you have yours working probably not worth moving to the newer version.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
This may be kind of a waste of money, a new power supply may work better for you. But I use these booster modules with the ATX power supplies for projects and testing makes it adjustable, but price isn't all that good. here is one on ebay. LINK I got mine from Amazon not sure if there is a difference other than I wanted it quick. LINKby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Sure you know this part, but make sure to adjust the firmware settings for the bed heater; like in Marlin Bang bang seems to work the best unless you spend the bucks to get a super fast switching SSR.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I think first I would verify that the resisters are reading correctly with a meter. I use only 100k ones so I will check my hotend one and make sure that is is close to the same as by heated bed. Then to verify they are plugged in to correct locations you can remove one and see if the value goes to 0 in the software it generates an error and you will have to reset it to get it working again,by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
What is the the resistance between the two wires pluged in to the Temp sensor pins for the heated bed on the Ramps board? Make sure you check them at plug end to make sure there isn't a bad connection someplace between the board and the sensor.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I have had pretty good luck using canned air; get the build plate super cold and part pops off much easier.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Sounds like a great use for that otherwise useless button. Any luck yet?by AquaticsLive - Developers
Similar build to my current project; I am still in the upgrade phase of the project, but prints really nice. Can hardly see the layers compared to my older printers. I am working on increasing the speed yet. I used Nema 17 motors which I am working to upgrade my Y axis to Nema 23 to handle the higher forces when changing directions. Here is my web page LINK with a sudo blog of my build. I pby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Possible your driver board is bad, I would try plugging the motor in to another axis to see if it will move.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Suggest doing Z axis calibration with a larger total distance then 10mm. Try 100mm if you can.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
You might want to try calibrating you Z axis again just to be sure that your moving far enough during layer changes. So for clogging repeats there may be something snagging up or maybe its trying to extrude too much. I would try checking the extruder calibration with a larger amount as well. Mark off two 100mm sections and make sure it comes out fairly close to your lines. I have had the littby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I used one of these LINK to power the fans, its just as a safety measure the Ramps might be able to handle them, but I wasn't sure. What version of Marlin are you using the older one has all them in the pins.h newer version has the pins spit up in seperate files for each board which is allot easier. So in the new one pins_RAMPS_13.h if you scroll down look for #define FAN_PIN 8 There is an eby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Repetier has the same view just need to click on "Toggle Log" then use the control section and Type M119 and click send. See Pic DropBox Linkby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I watched Thomas's video LINK and went for it, but yeah looked around too. Bang Bang is what I used, but going to switch to PID once I get a Nice Big Capacitor to sit in between the SSR and the power supply the fast switching of that big of a load is not safe for the power supply.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Make sure the Solid state relay is a DC/DC one and a name brand one. The cheap ones on Amazon and ebay tend to be DC/AC with a new label. You can tell they are fake when they get hot, allot of them will be sold with a big heat sink. I have a Crydom D06D60 LINK just gets slightly warm with a my 360 Watt silicone heater. I tried the cheap FOTEK SSR ESSR-DD100A and it got super hot even with a hby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I insulate the bottom of my bed with Frost King Pipe Insulation tape from local hardware store. Here is a link for a pic. Rated up to 250 F 120C so safe for the temps I use; cut the time to heat my 350mm x 450mm to 5 minutes. and no bounce in temps. If I want it to heat up super quick I will toss a piece of cardboard on top of bed while it is heating.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
You can delete it from the registry then when you plug it in it will add it like a new device. Here is a link to tool that may help you. LINKby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I used some for my Z-Axis not from that company, but good stuff. If you need to cut it use the Dremmel Ez-Lock cut off wheels work great.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers