I would be very appreciative if you could include an option which ran the fan only during the perimeters. I need it for print quality but I also need the piece to stay hot and fuse properly for strength! Thank you, Phizby Phizinza - Slic3r
The printing quality issue I am having is with curves. It gives a jagged edge. From what it looks like and what I read this is because the printer is stopping on every facet end and starting again; this gives the print head time to ooze just a little. I was told that look ahead removes the stops from happening and will therefor prevent the little ooze. I finally managed to get Marlin working andby Phizinza - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I managed to get Marlin on now. I had to do the standby power mod for the thermistors to my Gen7 electronics and also include in my tables *OVERSPAMPLR after the first set of numbers just how all the other tables have it. For some reason I have to manually start and stop the PSU using M80 and M81. It also does a strange thing where the first 5% of the move is really slow, than it accelerates toby Phizinza - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Using the Programmer's Notepad that came with WinAVR I managed to upload it using the WinAVR tools that are preinstalled in PN. I had to change the linux path to the USB to the Windows recognised COM4, but it worked after that. Thanks!by Phizinza - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
So I managed to get Cyberwizzard's Teacup uploaded using WinAVR installed with the Programmer's Notepad and using the default WinAVR make and program tools in Programmer's Notepad. I had to change the /etc/ttyUSB0 part in the Makefile to COM4 but other than that it worked. I am however having a problem that now the prints are even worse around corners, the bed seems to be jerking a lot. I haveby Phizinza - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I've been reading different ways of increasing voltage on an ATX PSU. One way upped all the voltages together and I thought this may be bad for the 5v line feeding the ATmega. But if I'm only looking at 5 to 10 percent increase maybe it wouldn't be an issue? Any thoughts? The other option looks pretty complicated to me, here is a write up . I'm only looking at getting the 12v rail (which on mby Phizinza - General
I get this bunch of output when I try and compile with WinAVR and PN > "make.exe" all rm -f build/depend mkdir -p build avr-gcc -DF_CPU=20000000L -mmcu=atmega644p -g -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -std=gnu99 -funsigned-char -funsigned-bitfields -fpack-struct -fshort-enums -Winline -fno-move-loop-invariants -fno-tree-scev-cprop -Os -ffunction-sections -finline-functions-called-once -mcall-prologuesby Phizinza - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Can WinAVR replace Arduino IDE?by Phizinza - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Ahh, ok. I also can't figure out how to do the make/makefile thing as I have Windows 7. I'm starting to think I need to install a copy of Linux in a virtual machine to do this firmware stuff!by Phizinza - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Printer works fine with teacup, although I have reversed the end stops on x and y to the other sides.by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Can anyone give me directions on how to compile and upload teacup firmware (mainly Cyberwizzard's lookahead version) with eclipse instead of Arduino?by Phizinza - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I've got marlin compiled and uploaded to the 1.3.1 board, with the 10uH inductor. I have a problem with the thermistors, they read quite low (-23c) when I issue the M80 to start the PSU (still haven't done the insulated thermistor standby by power mod so I have to start the PSU before Marlin lets me do anything due to the safety cuts with temps. But the only thing I can get marlin to do is move tby Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Could I please have the feature to run fan's for the perimeter only on prints? Perhaps even a choice between loops and final perimeter or both? Would help my printing of strong but clean looking ABS parts immensely! Thank you!by Phizinza - Slic3r
Is there an alternative to Arduino IDE to compile this firmware?by Phizinza - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
That would be even better (easier)... I'm having an issue compiling it in Arduino though I get this: dda_lookahead.c: In function 'dda_join_moves': dda_lookahead.c:219: error: 'for' loop initial declaration used outside C99 mode dda_lookahead.c:461: error: redefinition of 'sreg_save' dda_lookahead.c:219: error: previous definition of 'sreg_save' was here dda_lookahead.c:461: error: redefinitionby Phizinza - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Errors from Pronterface > "Printer stopped deu to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart!. (Temperature is reset. Set it before restarting)" Once M999 is issued > "Error:0 : Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !" So my min temp setting is a problem. I've tried this setting at 0 and -10 and still the same issue. My temp sensors don't measure properly until the PSU is on as thisby Phizinza - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I have a Prusa with gen7 1.3. It ran Teacup and was working good. I wanted to try Marlin for the look ahead feature so after some messing around i managed to upload it. Pronterface connects but says something about an error and try fixing the error and restarting. Then says something about temperature. (sorry on my phone at the moment, don't remember exact error message). Here's a strange part, oby Phizinza - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
So I've been printing the 5mm cubes calibration and when it comes to do the bridge my Prusa only starts the bridge what looks like a layer width (0.4mm) from the edge. And finishes the same. If it were to start 2mm back from the edge I feel as though it would "grab" better and stick to the other side better too. Any reason why the bridging only joins on such as small surface edge?by Phizinza - Slic3r
Cool, thanks Annirak.by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Those are out of stock so I ordered these Hoping they will work, looks all the same as the other one but just higher amps..?by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Looking in the Marlin firmware config file I'm having trouble figuring out what I need to set and change... First issue is the define temp sensors section. I am to assume temp sensor 0 is the hot end on my gen7 board? The thermistor I used on my heat bed is not in the list. Do I just have to add the table to the thermistortables.h as another number and then choose that number in configurationby Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
So I beefed up the v1.3 boards circuit with solder for both the molex to the source of the mosfet, from the drain to the new screw terminal and from the positive on the molex to the screw terminal. And I am still measuring almost half a volt drop across the source to drain on the mosfet. This means my heatbed struggles to get to 105 degrees. I have been told the IRLB8743 is a better option but Iby Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Polygonhell, so you think that the fan during the perimeter will cool the infill of the previous layer to the point I will still get weak parts?by Phizinza - Reprappers
I have a problem, if I don't run a fan I get the corners curling up on all my layers. If I do run a fan I don't get good adhesion and my parts are weak. Is it possible to only run the fan on perimeters and not loops or infill? If so, what software will g-code this? Thanks!by Phizinza - Reprappers
bobc Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- The trick is to > find a "logic level" MOSFET that is commonly > available and has a low enough resistance at 5V. > My stock favourite is currently IRLB8743, which is > overkill for a fan but will work. I can't find one of those near me or on the internet in Australia. Would this work?by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Output from the board to the heat bed has melted. I'll have to get a screw terminal as I soldered it and it is clean. Thanks.by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Hi, I have a 1.3.1 gen 7 board. The heatbed lost connection and there was a burning smell from the board. After closer inspection I found the white plug has melted through and the pin isn't making connection anymore.. Is this a known problem or is it the 34 degrees C ambient temperature I am printing in causing heat issues with the board? Suggestions for larger plug or more heat resistant plug?by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
That is a great idea. But I like to keep things with plugs or an easily connectable/disconnectable option. Just so when things go wrong it's easier to pull it all apart! Thanks.by Phizinza - Reprappers
I'm soldering at the end of the resistor wires (not cut at all). I am also using PTFE insulation on the resistor wiring. I'll try and find a small block to do it. Thanks.by Phizinza - Reprappers
I am very interested in this. Only problem is I don't know programming, and I don't know Linux very well. Would very much appreciate a Windows version!by Phizinza - Experimental