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Have you tried bolting a dremel or router to your RepRap? Can you engrave and drill PCBs? Or cut wood, or ... steel? (Or do you have a commercial mill or CNC router?)
J-Head hot end resistor wiring solder problem...? - 11 years ago
Hi, I've got a MK V J-Head with the 5.6Ohm resistor. I've had problems with it breaking away from the solder. I've made sure the connections are clean, soldered so there is solder around both the plug pins and resistor pins. The problem I am having is the solder appears to melt and eventually break connection. Is this a known issue with soldering hot ends and is there a better way to do make theby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: My ABS won't dissolve into Acetone? - 11 years ago
I read that Lego was ABS... I just can't bring myself to melt any of my childhood Lego!by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Fan support? - 12 years ago
Thank you both. Very helpful.by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: Fan support? - 12 years ago
Could the pin power a small relay? Or does it control, not power? Like control a MOSFET?by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Fan support? - 12 years ago
Would it be possible to use one of the unused ATmega pins on Gen 7 running Teacup firmware as a fan controller pin?by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: Gen7 20MHz running Marlin firmware? - 12 years ago
Thank you! I'm using a 1.3.1 board but I suppose I could upgrade..by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: First print went ok, now need help - 12 years ago
I too am impressed! Is that clear PLA you are printing with?by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: My ABS won't dissolve into Acetone? - 12 years ago
I haven't, no. But I will try that once I've printed my spool holder. So the dishwash goes into the sugar syrup?by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Teacup possible patch - 12 years ago
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > A feedrate override shouldn't be too difficult to > implement, either. The G-code wiki page appears to > recommend M220 for this: > > r_override_percentage I have to admit, I don't understand much of this thread. But I just wanted to say that this M220 feature would be highly appreciated by me! Will be keby Phizinza - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Printing speeds, what do you print at and what is the quality like? - 12 years ago
Hi, I'm just getting my prints honed in now, after much experimenting with the heated bad and adhesion methods. So I would like to know what people are getting out of their RepRaps for speed. Please include type of RepRap, Electronics, Firmware, Software, Type of plastic printing, Speed of perimeters, infill, bridges (if you do those), and any other relevant thing you can think of. I have a Pby Phizinza - General
Gen7 20MHz running Marlin firmware? - 12 years ago
Is there anyone out there running Marlin firmware on 20MHz Gen7 electronics? Does it work, any problems/limitations?by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: My ABS won't dissolve into Acetone? - 12 years ago
I pulled a picec of black ABS out of an old laser printer. It was labeled with >ABS< stamped into it. Through a tiny piece of it in 30ml of acetone and it has completely dissolved leaving the acetone foggy and not see through. So it is proven that my "ABS" is not, or only partly ABS. I lit some of the Orange ABS on fire and it smelt pretty bad, just like I'd expect burning plastic to smellby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: My ABS won't dissolve into Acetone? - 12 years ago
But I was of the opinion that the abs should go milky when shaken up? Mine stays very clear and the sediment just floats around.by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: My ABS won't dissolve into Acetone? - 12 years ago
This in the filament I have I am using Diggers Acetone, 100%.by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: My ABS won't dissolve into Acetone? - 12 years ago
I tried less ABS, about 10mm of filament to 30ml of acetone. Still left settlement ABS in the bottom of the jar and coloured orange but clear acetone. See this pictureby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: My ABS won't dissolve into Acetone? - 12 years ago
I tried smearing some of the melted ABS on the glass bed. The print would not stick at all to it. Might get some kapton tape as this is getting annoying. I was told by the person I bought my kit off of that they printed just straight to glass and the parts that came in the kit look good with no curling or warpage. Not sure what I have done differently...by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: My ABS won't dissolve into Acetone? - 12 years ago
I only have orange as I am still new to the Reprap and I bought a 1.5kg spool of orange! Also the stuff I have tried to dissolve has been scrap left overs, mostly thin strands of the ABS. The settled ABS in the acetone solution is very soft and gluggy, wondering if maybe I should just smear that on the glass?by Phizinza - Reprappers
My ABS won't dissolve into Acetone? - 12 years ago
I have orange ABS bought from a local in Australia here. I'm trying to make the ABS Juice as described here but the ABS won't dissolve. Within abotu an hour it colours the acetone orange and leaves a more lighter coloured gooey plastic settled on the bottom of the jar. After 12 hours its still the same. If I shake it up the settled plastic bounces around and turns into a ball. It doesn't dissoby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Heat bed output voltage quite low? - 12 years ago
So why not use a NOTO delay relay instead of a MOSFET? Or is the MOSFET there for much more sensitive quicker heating heatbeds?by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: Slic3r 0.9.7 adds infill not wanted... - 12 years ago
You're not the only one that has experienced this. I had it on a model I printed yesterday. In the STL the box was hollow, printed and randomly inside the box it would bridge across. On the 50mm high box it did probably 15 layers of fill. It ended up looking pretty messy but I just cleaned it up with a knife.by Phizinza - Slic3r
Heat bed output voltage quite low? - 12 years ago
So while waiting quite a long time for my heatbed to heat up each time I start it from cold I thought I'd measure the volts to it to make sure it's getting full PSU voltage. Now under the load of the heatbed my PSU was delivering 11.8 volts, but on the output of the MOSFET there were only 10.5 volts. Is this usual? It seems like quite a drop and I can really see why it takes so long to get the beby Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: Is kapton tape necesary? - 12 years ago
I just used RTV red silicone, capable of about 360 degrees C. But before I stuck the resistor and thermistor in the head I dabbed them in a little thermal paste for better heat conduction. Then used the silicone on the outside to glue the parts into the head. It also holds the PTFE wire insulation in place. I have only been printing on cleaned glass so I didn't want to buy kapton tape, this isby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Slic3r settings not taking effect, and where is retraction? - 12 years ago
I did press enable, doesn't limit the minimum print layer time. I thought minimum perimeter would mean it's minimum as in it has to do that amount. I set it to 5 and it still only does 2 perimeters and then infills the absolutely tiny gap. Thanks for showing me where the retraction is.by Phizinza - Slic3r
Re: print two objects one after the other - 12 years ago
Couldn't you just add one g-code set onto the end of one. This way it will print the first g-code and then home the axes again and print from the base with the next g-code?by Phizinza - Slic3r
Slic3r settings not taking effect, and where is retraction? - 12 years ago
I can't find anything in the settings to do with Retraction. I am using v0.9.7. Also when I set the cooling minimum layer time, it does not work. I set it at 15 seconds and near the end of a print it was printing layers in 11 seconds. Also if I change the minimum perimeter shells it doesn't change anything and will still infill with the rectilinear pattern. I'm trying the print thin walled circby Phizinza - Slic3r
Re: Another success story! - 12 years ago
I skipped the cooling settings as I just assumed they were only for fans! I'll play around with those using your suggested settings. I fixed my board adhesion issue with isopropyl alcohol cleaning and more heat bed temp. My thermistor is out by about 8 degrees so I used my IR temp gun and tuned the board to 110 degrees (reads 118 in pronterface) I'm printing with ABS. I will look into settingby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Shorted and now can't connect... - 12 years ago
I received new Pololus, A4983's, and after putting them in I no longer have any connection issues with the Gen7 board. Looks like the old ones I had which 3 out of 4 just failed to run the motors 2 months after buying them (with almost no running time) were somehow stopping the PSU from auto switching on or something.. Weird. Anyhow, all good now. Printing and everything. Cheers for your help.by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: Can admin run a poll on filament usage? - 12 years ago
I'm still new to this. But I decided on 3mm ABS for what I want to do. I'm happy with the results so I think I'll stick to it mostly.by Phizinza - General
Another success story! - 12 years ago
I have been researching, building and waiting for parts for my Prusa build for the last 8 months. Finally just the other night I managed to get it to print after all this time. A lot of time was spent gathering money to put into the project, waiting for overseas parts to arrive or trying to find time to build it. Over the last two months I have had it almost to the point of printing but just notby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Visual guide to symptoms and causes of bad prints? - 12 years ago
Thanks. I also just found this, it is an interesting read for a printing newbie ike myself.by Phizinza - Reprappers