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Have you tried bolting a dremel or router to your RepRap? Can you engrave and drill PCBs? Or cut wood, or ... steel? (Or do you have a commercial mill or CNC router?)
Re: Extruder and Heatbed not heating - 9 years ago
Quoteyours31f Actually, the x axis was blocking the fans port, but all is good now, except for my x asis not moving but thats for tomorrow. Thanks. If you meant the x-driver was blocking the 12V connector on the RAMPS, you might have misplaced the driver by one hole. It could be damaged now... -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: i3 (Z-605) Build Plate Upgrade - 9 years ago
Why nylon nuts? The spring tension will hold the screws in place.... I would use countersunk screws, to improve alignment of the table. -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Prints are perfect except for this new issue - 9 years ago
QuoteOff to the left side 1/32" (using 1/32" stepper drivers). It's definately on the Z axis. That doesn´t make sense?! If it´s off to the left, it is the x-stepper that misfires, right? -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Hotbed question - 9 years ago
Another dumb question from me: On all Pictures I´ve seen, the Prusa MK3 heatbed ( black) was mounted with the solderpads on top and the aluminum side was bottom. How would you solder 4pcs. together? Where would you put the cables? Or is it save to turn these heatbeds upside down? -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Seeking resistor heater recommendations - 9 years ago
Quoteleadinglights o_lampe, The resistance of an aluminum hot end block made from a 1cm cube would be about 28 microOhms so to get it to dissipate 20 watts would take 2670 Amps - the wires would be too thick for me. That´s a lot! But your plans were to build a hole bunch of hotends, so you could design them in a different way to give them much more resistance. Especially where the heat is needby o_lampe - General
Re: Seeking resistor heater recommendations - 9 years ago
Quoteleadinglights By the way, o_lampe, don't try your current controlled PSU idea, the power dissipation depends on the resistance - formula is Power = I squared R. You´d need a low voltage/high current PSU for sure, like welding inverters. Only smaller...by o_lampe - General
Re: [Hotend fried Ramps 1.4] - 9 years ago
Is it a 40W cartridge for 12V? How long did it take to blow the fuse? A resistor in series would get very hot. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: DIY budget heated bed - 9 years ago
The problem with aluminum: It builds up a NONconductive oxyd layer very fast. With only a mechanical connection, you can never be sure about contact resistance. That´s probably, where your max-temp problem comes from...by o_lampe - Developers
Re: Need help activating LCD backlight in marlin - 9 years ago
I don´t know if it helps, but the backlight LED pins are labeled "A" and "K" on top of the display. For LEDs : Anode is GND and Kathode is + with a matching resistor in series. -Olaf PS: Did you try the potmeter on the I2C board?by o_lampe - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Seeking resistor heater recommendations - 9 years ago
With a current controlled PSU, you wouldn´t need any heat resistor. Just use the aluminum body as heating element. With a PWM signal it would probably work with the RAMPS and a standard voltage controlled PSU. ( Not tested yet!) -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: DIY budget heated bed - 9 years ago
I´m wondering, how you contact the aluminum foil with the cable? Soldering aluminum is a nightmare.... Instead of playing around with the resistance, you should try to use a current limiting PSU. -Olafby o_lampe - Developers
skin pattern printing. 1st result - 9 years ago
Hi, I started a thread in the experimental software section about skin pattern printing ( all sides ) My first test was succesful, but hard to take a picture of it. What´ya think? -Olafby o_lampe - Look what I made!
Re: postprocessing g-code for skin-pattern?! - 9 years ago
Today I tried to print a regular pattern on the sides of a 20mm cube. It was hard to take a Picture of it, because black PLA isn´t the best choice. But for an 1st attempt I was happy. Ofcourse the gcode was altered manually. I´d like to write code for similar regular patterns, autoscaling to fit the dimensions of the object. -Olafby o_lampe - Experimental
Re: 3DPrinterOS Software - 9 years ago
Where´s the hook? Do I have to be online for slicing? Can I claim copyright on my top_secret_design? I´m always suspicious, when someone offers a good thing for narda... -Olafby o_lampe - Experimental
Re: Folgertech Prusa I3 : X axis movement problem - 9 years ago
If you read inconsistent values at every drivers potmeter, you probably have trouble with the 5v supply on the Mega board? If it´s only the x-Driver, the potmeter might be bad or the whole driverboard. You must not plug/unplug Steppers while power is on, that can kill the Drivers. With wrong stepping mode, I meant bad contact of the Jumpers. A motor can´t cope with gazillion steps/second when itby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Ansteuerung der Schrittmotoren funktioniert nicht ! - 9 years ago
Wenn du neu flashst, musst du anschliessend die neuen Werte ins Eeprom übernehmen. Welcher Befehl war das nochmal? M502? Dann M500? Ich verwende dafür immer das smartLCD: => Einstellungen=> standardkonfiguration=> Eeprom speichern=> reset Quoteecho: steps per unit: echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z0.00 E0.00 Da müsste stehen: Z4000 Exx ( abhängig vom Extruder ) -Olafby o_lampe - Elektrik & Elektronik
Re: Prusa I3 Z-Stepper - 9 years ago
Ich tippe auch auf Kabelunterbrechung. Vielleicht sogar im Stepper. Meine Z-Stepper sind auch parallel geschaltet und wenn ich einen der Stepper von Hand drehe, will der andere automatisch mitdrehen. -Olafby o_lampe - Elektrik & Elektronik
Re: [Sintron] Prusa i3 - 9 years ago
Check out the height of the hobbed bolt. Also look at the bearing. The curve should align with the hole in the bolt. -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Folgertech Prusa I3 : X axis movement problem - 9 years ago
Try to connect the x-stepper to the y-driverboard and see if it works then. Sometimes the jumpers on the RAMPS don´t provide good connection. Your x-driver might be in a wrong stepping mode and can´t cope with the signals it gets. ( too fast ) What about the potmeters on the Drivers? Did you adjust them? -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
postprocessing g-code for skin-pattern?!
- 9 years ago
Hi Guys, sometimes I want my printed parts to have a nice skin. (My LCD-cover is butt ugly...) When I print on glass, I have a nice shiny surface, but the pattern I see, is just the random g-code chaos. I want to write a postprocessing script, which eliminates the original layers of the g-code and replaces them with my "exotic meander pattern". Such a pattern would not only look good, but alsby o_lampe - Experimental
Wanna change Marlin´s behavoiur on "pause print" - 9 years ago
Hi Guys, I´m not happy with marlins behaviour, when I use the "pause print" function from smart LCD. I want it to do a z-lift and extruder retract and reverse that, when I resume printing. Where in this huge code can I find the right spot to integrate that? Thx -Olafby o_lampe - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Fried Mega 2560 with RAMPS 1.4 - 9 years ago
Test the Mega board without RAMPS. Can you see it on your PC? Can you program it with ArduinoIDE? I would disconnect everything from the RAMPS ( Drivers, extruder, heatbed, temp-probes etc. ) Check the connectors of the RAMPS and Mega to find any solderbridges or other shortcuts. On one picture the heatsinks of the MosFets are connected. Change that Then check the polarity of your PSU connectorby o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Need some advice - 9 years ago
You will always have visible lines with our 3D Printers. You can use a smaller nozzle and then print thinner slices. But they are still there, only smaller. -Olaf PS: Haven´t tried it yet, but maybe you can use an iron to smooth the Surface? Put some paper between, or the PLA will stick to the iron... - Try on your own risk-by o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: extruder to extruding during printing and not in right place HELP plz - 9 years ago
Do you have the Arduino IDE installed? Did you set the port and processor model in the IDE? ( processor is Mega 2560 in your case ) Port number depends on your PC. Connect the GT2560 board with the USB of your PC. It will recognize it and you can see in "Hardware Manager" which COM-port is assigned to the 2560 board. Now open the " Clear Eprom" program, provided by ArduinoIDE. It is located inby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Any ideas?? - 9 years ago
Quote but since I put ABS in it... There might be a little ABS left in the nozzle coating the outlet, so the actual diameter is smaller now. Try to heat up the extruder to ABS-temps and manually push some PLA through it to clear the nozzle. Or change the nozzle with a new one. -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: DVR8825 microstep jumper setting don't register - 9 years ago
I´ve read rumors about some cloned RAMPS boards, that have bridges on the PCB between the jumperpins. (stupid ) No matter, if the jumper is there or not, it will stay in 1/32 until you cut the bridge on the PCB. Calculation time is no issue between 1/16 and 1/32. It is just one register shift more or less -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Looking at building a Large FDM - 9 years ago
Thanks for the input! I didn´t want to hijack this thread, but I´m playing with an idea, how to avoid warps easier without messing around with temps and printspeed. I will look in the experimental firmware section and start a thread there. It might get interesting for you too, one day Thx -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: [Invert z axis?] - 9 years ago
Quote3dmi So the Z endstop female plug would be in the last set of pins contrary to the 2nd to last set of pins? Yes. But you also have to set Quote #define INVERT_Z_DIR // or turn around the plug of the stepper to change direction if needed. ... #define Z_HOME_DIR = 1 set endstop as max. endstop -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Larger motor for less heat? - 9 years ago
To answer the question: No it won´t make much difference, because you are still stuck with 12V. The bigger mass and surface may help to keep it cooler. But like the others already said: How hot is hot? -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Adjusting Voltage on A4988 Stepper drivers - 9 years ago
Thats right. You can start adjusting them without power on by setting the centerpoint of the potmeter (50%) Look closely to the potmeter, they have three legs. Two on one side, one on the opposite. The turning part has a flat side. Now turn the potmeter until the flat side is parallel to the two legs side. This is the centerpoint. Now turn the potmeter 30°- 45° to the left and you are in the balby o_lampe - General