I had the exact same problem, and realised it was when I switched to a new laptop power supply that I got cheaply on ebay, it interrupts prints when plugged in to /the other side of the house/!!! See if the problem happens when you're running from battery. If it does, probably some funky power management thing, otherwise, bad psu.by james glanville - General
I'd put the extruder at a very high temperature (240C ish) and just leave it to dribble out over an hour or two. Blowtorching is risky.by james glanville - Reprappers
I'm pretty sure the RC filter won't help much at all - the issue is as nophead says that you need a higher starting voltage. With the type of brushless dc fans most people use the hall effect sensor crudely tries to detect where the fan blades are, and if it isn't spinning fast enough, and the current isn't enough, it won't have the momentum or the force to get to the next "click". The fan circuiby james glanville - Slic3r
It would be very cool to be able to do this, but the correct place for tweaking this is during the slicing process, when the gcode is being created. It's one of those features that will be very tricky to implement "properly", since the slicer basically needs to know exactly what settings you want for infill and perimeters etc, but then has use all that information and choose parameters that actuaby james glanville - Printing
- 13 years agoGood idea to automate the process, I'll definitely give it a try next time I print something huge (mario shell i'm looking at you)by james glanville - General
What about changing the axes of the arm hinges, so that as the grippers close, they sink very slightly? This way, the weight of the can will increase the gripping power, because it'll try and pull the grippers down, which will close them tighter. Using a worm gear would also sort out all the issues of wasting power to hold things, because you can just use a small motor to turn the driving gear unby james glanville - Robots!
Will there be a conductive 3mm pla? I can't use abs because I run my printers where ventilation would be tricky and expensive. I shall be very interested in any tests done on printed objects with this filament, to see how the extrusion process affects resistance, and whether resistance is isotropic or based mostly on infill directions for example.by james glanville - For Sale
To get their plastic to stick I use a first layer ratio of 0.1, compared to 100mm/s perimeters and 200mm/s for infill. This usually works. I find the black much harder to print though, it needs 240C first layer, 200C afterwards, when normally I'd use 200C the whole time. Black needs 0.04 ratio for first layers, which is really boring Cheap though.by james glanville - General
I could print those, how many/how much/by when? I'm based in cambridge.by james glanville - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
I would suggest using pronterface (for sending commands to the printer) and slic3r (to generate the gcode). They're far more up to date, and what most people use nowadays. I'm almost certain they work on macs.by james glanville - RepRap Host
0.2mm layer heights, no broken threads, I don't have any pictures at the moment, but prints look like this: I can't remember what my accel settings are, quite a lot higher than the defaults in sprinter.by james glanville - General
Just for the record, you say tantillus does 90mm/s hex infill, my prusa2 does 180 no problems, and i think I might get 250 eventually when I upgrade to better smooth rods, so that definitely isn't a selling point of tantillus.by james glanville - General
Not sure why my pictures aren't scaling nicely, here are the same pulleys printed at 0.05mm layer heights: With this plastic, you need to drop the first layer scaling to 0.1 to get any plastic sticking to the bed - adds a minute or so because the first layer takes ages, but works great afterwards.by james glanville - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
The blue pla is nice too, I'm printing at 225C with a desk fan blasting at the bed, which is at 60C. This is with (mm/s): perimeters 60 infill 150 travel 130 bottom layer speed ratio 0.3by james glanville - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
no problem, here's another: (pink and blue from repraper, cream from faberdashery) fromby james glanville - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Getting there with the settings...by james glanville - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Got my plastic today, I've only tried the pink pla so far, but here are my thoughts: Colour - much more vibrant than the photos on the website - the site would do well to get some really good photos. Cost - Very good, it cost me £40 for 2kg of pla delivered, the cheapest I've seen. Spools - Sturdy, 15cm diameter, small enough to sit on top of a prusa easily. Ease of printing - compared to faberdby james glanville - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Good to hear it'd be good though if your website showed correct statuses, or at least stated that they could be inaccurate though. I look forward to trying the plastic out, I'll leave my thoughts here when I get it.by james glanville - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
I ordered 2kg to the uk a week ago, and it is not marked as dispatched yet, how long should I be waiting until I get my plastic?by james glanville - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
I've wondered about building mostly hollow objects, but with struts supporting large faces or overhangs. For example, a hollow cube might have struts from the centre base to the middle of the four outer walls, these would be joined to each other by smaller overhangs (and would be internal so wouldn't matter if they were messy) and then from there to the centre top. A bit like a smaller wireframeby james glanville - General
Most of the time though, you /are/ doing rapid changes in speed and direction - infill. To test this, run too many programs at once on your pc while printing - if you can slow the comms down, the head will pause slightly from time to time, which shows up as big blobs on the print. On more organic curves as well, you'd need to change X and Y speeds continuously the entire time. Plastic isn't dirtby james glanville - General
Price drop £55 now: I've sorted out the not perfect top layers, a couple of the parts don't look perfect hence the low price, but everything has been tested to fit.by james glanville - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
PRICE DROP selling on ebay here: Just £55 with free postage to the uk, cheap to everywhere else. I need some money fast, which is why they're going so cheap Jamesby james glanville - For Sale
Oh huh, thats only a couple of the parts,h I just took a picture of all the purple things I had, even the failed test prints I wasn't going to include. Whoops.by james glanville - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
I'm selling a set of prusa2 parts printed in faberdashery princely purple PLA. I'm throwing in these improvements: herringbone gears - they look cooler, less backlash, less noise, less wear sprung printed bushings - better than the standard bushings, they wear less and have lower friction wade's reloaded extruder - - generally better I've reamed all of the parts, and tidied them up - everythinby james glanville - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
I'm selling a set of prusa2 parts printed in faberdashery princely purple PLA. I'm throwing in these improvements: herringbone gears - they look cooler, less backlash, less noise, less wear sprung printed bushings - better than the standard bushings, they wear less and have lower friction wade's reloaded extruder - - generally better I've reamed all of the parts, and tidied them up - everythinby james glanville - For Sale
RepRap / RepStrap for making Aerodynamic Models
- 13 years agoFrom my experience building a wooden darwinish printer, here are a few thoughts: Consider the possibility of printing in parts and fixing together - you'll get away with a far smaller printer, prints will individually take far less time and plastic - better if something screws up and you don't waste hours/lots of plastic. PLA warps so little that you can glue two prints together with a barely noby james glanville - Developers
I don't know i'm afraid, but why encoders + steppers? If you're doing closed loop control, get cheaper dc motors, if you're doing open loop, you don't need feedback :sby james glanville - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Just a bump to say I'm selling another setby james glanville - For Sale
Whoops my mistake, they're printed at 0.2mm layer height. even prettierby james glanville - For Sale