After asking Folger Tech for some assistance, they've agreed to send me a new part. Apparently they are really getting their act together, support wise.by dudesom - Delta Machines
No, I haven't. Any damage done to it was done before I got my grubby hands on it. I actually tried ordering another off ebay. To my dismay, they sent a slightly smaller one that takes m4 screws. Now I'm trying to take both apart and see why one works but the other doesn't. So far I haven't had any luck. I've tried taking bearings from the new one and putting them in the old but it doesn't seemby dudesom - Delta Machines
I've been working on a delta based CO2 laser cutter. I need help finding the PWM pin that normally controls the printhead fan speed (D9). I would like to use this to control my laser's power by issuing M106 SXXX to my RAMPS 1.4 board. So far, I have been able to upload the basic "Fade" arduino sketch to my stand alone arduino. Once I connect the laser to the appropriate PWM pin, it responds justby dudesom - Laser Cutter Working Group
Here's a video showing my troubles.by dudesom - Delta Machines
One of my HIWIN MGN-12H linear rails glides fine in one direction but does a stuttering motion in the other. I've tried working it by hand without any progress. Could my rail be bad? The other 2 rails do not do this at all. Edit: I have taken the rail and carriage off of the assembly to test it and it still does this without being connected to anything else.by dudesom - Delta Machines
@Makerfront On page 4 of the assembly manual you show mounting the pulleys and say "We'll adjust the depth later", and that's the last we ever hear of it. Could you add the depth adjustment and the tightening of the grub screws? How tight do they need to be?by dudesom - Delta Machines
@gmh39 I do have a dust cleaner attached. @Ralph.Hilton That could be it. I'll have to give it a good cleaning and see. Here's a better photo. As you can see, the darker, discolored output doesn't last for more than a few cm. It is also more shiny than the regular output.by dudesom - Printing
I don't know what could be going on. I've tried: changing the temp: 190-200 degrees C. changing speed: from 30mm/s to 120mm/s I would change filament but I don't have any other. Is this a common issue with PLA? Sorry for the horrible picture, my phone camera sucks..by dudesom - Printing
Well the thing is, I don't think you'd have to heat a rod, due to the small surface area to lose heat from the print. Either way though, this seems like a worthwhile project, so I'll keep banging my head till I get some slicer code working.by dudesom - General
Thanks for the material, A2. For my first go at this I will probably use something very similar to these (XZ cartesian gantry). Once I am able to print like this, then I'll try and build the bot I drew. As a side note, another benifit to this design is that you could probably paint/color your print, just as long as it's geometry isn't too crazy. If a direct filament drive is used (instead of boby dudesom - General
I'll keep working on it. The hardware seems like it would be easy to add to my prusa i3. I just need to get the software figured out. I'll be sure to post any code I come up with.by dudesom - General
Well I'm glad I didn't spend too much time on that! Thanks for pointing this out to me.by dudesom - General
Alright, here's what I have in mind: This is extremely rough but I wanted to get the idea out there.by dudesom - General
The latest patent news regarding the heated print bed has led me wonder if we really need a print bed in the first place. Why not have a rotating rod as the print surface? Has anyone tried this? Right now I'm trying to figure out how a slicer would slice for such a thing.by dudesom - General
And it prints again! The real culprit turned out to be the setscrew being too loose. While getting that taken care of I did pull the printer apart, and now it runs a little better.by dudesom - General
Ah, well that's good news I suppose. I don't think I was putting that much force on it. I was pushing the filament into the extruder, which was probably a bad idea. Now that I've taken the belt off, it seems like the increased friction has disapeared. It occurs to me that maybe I set my belt up wrong after it came loose. Thanks for the help.by dudesom - General
Printer: Prusa i3 "6inch" from MakerFarm.com To make this short, basically I've messed something up by pressing down on my print head while it was printing. Now I'm having problems. The the X carriage still moves, but with more friction and skipped steps during printing. I think I've messed up my bearings on that axis. 1. Would replacing my LM12UU linear bearings fix the problem? 2. Is this $2.by dudesom - General
Problem solved: hot end wasn't heated up (oh god, I'm such a noob). Now everything works.by dudesom - General
Here's the url to the exact type of stepper drivers that I'm using:by dudesom - General
I have no idea. I had just hooked everything up except the power when I did that.by dudesom - General
I've finally gotten my prusa i3 from Makerfarm.com assembled and wired, but I think I broke it. Like a big dummy, I turned the large driven gear on the extruder by hand about 1/4 turn while it was hooked up to the RAMPS 1.4 electronics. Without any power supply, the screen lit up for a moment and I realized that I probably shouldn't do that. Now I can't get my extruder to turn unless I plug it inby dudesom - General
Nice render. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. It'll be interesting to see how this all plays out.by dudesom - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
After speaking with Rylan a few days ago, I can pretty much say that the thickness of the resin does not affect printing. This is why I think a "thick" multi-resin raft would be best.by dudesom - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
I really like the feed mechanism for the resin reservoirs. They might have to be really small to fit on the raft, though Personally, I was just thinking of having really deep floating rafts that would be able to carry a lot of resin. The only thing this depends on is the large movement of either the water level rising or the print bed lowering (my current favorite solution).by dudesom - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
I think I understand now where you are coming from Rylan. If you really think it would help, then help us out by giving us some dimensions to work with. What's the ideal peachy height above the print resin surface? What is the scan area like this? Another avenue for a z-guide would be a sarrus linkage. Also, we could put the smooth rods on the outside of the build reservoir. We could also use pby dudesom - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
That's a good point. I'll have to bring that up with Rylan next time I talk with him. What type do you have in mind? LDR?by dudesom - General
You guys are doing great, peachy team; keep it up!by dudesom - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
I guess I just haven't been thinking big enough Another solution may be to use plastic sarrus linkages.by dudesom - General
Ah haha. Yeah, I didn't mean that you would build one, but that you could. I guess I didn't come through I hear ya though about patents though As for this project, I do appreciate your help, even if you do not build one.by dudesom - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
At this point I'm thinking that stainless probably won't cut it. Also, there are other issues that make z smooth rods more trouble than they're worth. Thanks all for the adviceby dudesom - General