GRBL - and GRBL Controler - is a nice little combo. GRBL Comtroler can easily run on a raspberry pi or beaglebone booting a linux distro, or any PC with a USB port.by markstephen - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I couldn't agree more with the_digital_dentist on his point about circles. It's like the old saying, garbage in, garbage out. I use a parametric modeler, for the exact same reason. (see sig for a hint on which one) I had used Sketchup until I started coming up against the "circle problem". Sketchup is good for making visual models of things and if that is all your going to use it for it's a greatby markstephen - 3D Design tools
Another question, are you writing the Gcode to a SD card and running independently or are you streaming the code with something like grbl Controller? I've been looking at grbl / grbl Controller but it could use a few more features to move it from being OK to being really good. Markby markstephen - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Peatol (Taig) mill. these mills are very accurate and very well built. They are also easy to upgrade to CNC and with proper care should last a life time. They are good for milling anything from PCB's to 4140 steel. Personally, I would go for the larger model with the 12" (300 mm) X travel. If your going to CNC it, get the manual mill and do the conversioby markstephen - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Can anyone tell me what the he!! this has to do with anything CAD? Moderators - please ban this POS spammer immediately!by markstephen - 3D Design tools
Thanks Viktor. I might just have enough info to move froward with this. I've caught your posts on venting the fumes and EVERYONE'S posts on the use of proper safety glasses so I'm good to go there. Haven't gotten any hardware yet, still in the planing stages. Reg, yea, it could turn out that way for me, but I've gotten the oats on the wrong side of the horse a few too many times to jump right iby markstephen - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks for the replies! @Reg, yea, I'd love to have a CO2 setup, but I'm afraid it wouldn't get used enough to be worth the care and feeding of the tube. Maybe some day if I get my self into needing one on a daily basis, 80 watt, here I come! @Viktor, thanks for the clarification. From what I have read so far, the G-2 lens would be better for this application than a 3 element due to the G-2 hby markstephen - Laser Cutter Working Group
Forgive me for butting in here but it seems like a good time and place to ask this question. I fully understand that engraving aluminum takes more power, but what about engraving colored anodized aluminum? In Viktor's video here - - it shows it being done. Was this done with more or less "off the shelf" laser diode or is the laser module tweaked and tricked up to get the capability. I am intereby markstephen - Laser Cutter Working Group
Just look on fleBay - 40w CO2 laser tube - Power supply - Water pump - Head and mirrors - And from there all you'll need is an XY CNC axis with provisions to mount the laser, head, and mirrors, reservoir and / or radiator for cooling the water, and a table in a vented enclosure, and your set to go. (well, there's a few more odds and ends in there ) Here is a video of a nice little DIYby markstephen - Laser Cutter Working Group
I don't think I would "copy" it, but install it to a flash drive and try it that way. FreeCAD, being open source, uses some 3rd party software for some of it's functionality as that 3rd party software can not be bundled with the program due to licensing restrictions, and if the host PC does not have that software installed on it, it will be lacking that functionality. If your talking window$, youby markstephen - 3D Design tools
While still in beta, FreeCAD is a very capable piece of software. Being a daily user of the program, ( and full disclosure, I'm an advocate and active member of the FreeCAD community ), I find it to be the best there is in the open source arena. I have found it to be a perfect match for 3D printing, as one must work very hard to NOT produce a manifold .stl file. Being a parametric solid modeler,by markstephen - 3D Design tools
And the URL to the repo with the CAD drawings and documentation for this bundling head?by markstephen - Laser Cutter Working Group
Nice design Rich! The more I look at the 'unnamed mechanism' the more I want to give it a try. Do you have any better pix of the arrangement for the Z axis? I'm suspecting that you did the Z axis like the Y (blue) axis as shown in the pic you have on your blog - Markby markstephen - CoreXY Machines
Yup, mine is pretty much wired just like that. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotebzbee Hi Mark, Great design! I'm still a little confused about how this is put together. Is there a spring that pushes the hotend down when it's not making contact with the microswitch? Thanks. No, at least nothing more than the spring force in the micro switch. That and the weight and tension of the Bowden tube. It's the tension of the Bowden tube that makes the big difference. Dependinby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendz hi mark , It's good you've been busy ! I know freecad takes you a lot of time and everyone must be happy of your energy in the project yes, beeing printable is no 1 . I even think about even more printable and less extra parts . I've always said there must be at least one project like this as the others went all to metal . I understand perfectly why of course and it's reallby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendz Smartrap V2 should be completely different . I would like to have the bed not moving and still a good support for the head to be able to develop multi heads , seringe for food , laser cut, etc... let's design Are you thinking about a coreXY - "Smartrap style" - or something else? I have been giving some thought to coreXY type my own self, with the #1 design criteria being ALL pby markstephen - Smart_Rap
QuoteQbert25 Hi, I've just received the J-head lite v2.1 hotend, but I don't figure out how to adapt to bowden. Can someone explain in detail? Another question: which are resistor and thermistor wires? - Just a few posts below this one. Check with multimeter, thermistor has high resistance, the heater risistor has much lower resistance.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotemrmillsy Ahh I see, thank you, that makes sense. I take it it should be attached loosely then? No, tighten it down. It holds the center hub and does not contact the outer hub. Here is a CAD assembly of the Idler, Bearing and Cap. Hope this helps. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotemrmillsy Off-topic (sorry) but what purpose does the "washer" on top of the bearing serve for the build? It keeps the bearing from "walking" up and off the axle. Not a good thing to have happen in the middle of a print. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
You can see it in this pic - There is a 4 mm nut that retains the tube between the fork. The filament just passes from the tube into the body of the Jhead Light. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotecosmicr Hello All, I'm a MendelMax 1.5 user, planning to print off the parts and build a 0.4.9 SmartRap. First and foremost, what layer height do you recommend? I'm thinking 0.4mm? I'm using PLA. I print at 0.2 with a 0.4 nozzle, but whatever is working best for your printer, use that. QuoteI've gone over the BOM and had a look at the instructions, but have a few questions about sourcingby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Or you could just look on Ebay - ] And 5M GT2 belt - The pulley is $2.01 cheaper than robotdigg after you figure in the shipping (quoted me $4.00 shipping on one pulley!!) They look like they have cheap prices, but bend you over and rape you raw on shipping charges. I saved over $30.00 NOT buying from them when I built my Smartrap, and in several cases I got a better quality part than what theby markstephen - CoreXY Machines
Well, I thought i had it?? Can't seem to find it now, so i modeled up a new one. I have NOT printed or mounted this one si i have no idea just how it will fit. It might need some trimming and such. Let me know what needs adjustment and I'll make it, or you can just use the FreeCAD file and mod it your self. Both the CAD and STL files are attached. Mark FreeCAD File - STL file was meshed withby markstephen - Smart_Rap
QuoteBasher Is that idler bearing on a concentric hub so you can adjust tension? Tension is adjustable -by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Yup, their on my X and Y axis at this very moment. Working just fine. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
In the end, and as cheap as you can find the pulleys and belts, using them is the better way to go. I started with string and then went to belts. Belts are better all in all.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Serge, I'm also doing my first rounds in FreeCAD I'm so glad to finally have a CAD program on GNU/Linux that works for me. I'm not sure how a realtime dev session works but i like the idea. For now the youtube tutorials helped me best to get started. I'm now looking a lot at thisone But I feel like i'm still missing a few steps. It just looks sooooo easy to do this assembly stuff. :by markstephen - Smart_Rap
I'm still here. I have been really sidetracked. I know, "bad Mark"... Should have a new mod to the dual hot end setup. The old hotend retainer mount was / is a bit weak, but i think I have a plan to fix it right up Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap