The stainless steel nozzle+tube part, not the bowden cable.by Jelle - Fisher
Yes, I have had something similar. In my case, the filament to stuck to the nozzle tube above the hot zone. If that part is not smooth enough, the filament can stick firmly to it, leading to a blocked nozzle. As you mentioned, some force is needed to pull it loose, but after that it seems fine. My solution was to polish the inside with the shank of a 2mm drill and some scouring soap (CIF) and aby Jelle - Fisher
In the same vein of missing files: did someone find a link to the insert that goes behind the rrp logo? As for the files for the extruder drive, they live in a separate repo on github, in case anyone was looking for those in the fisher repo.by Jelle - Fisher
if your lights expect 9V, put two in series and connect it to the 19V. You can get the 19V at the power connector, or at the expansion header. You'll have to look up where in the schematics yourself, I'm sure google can tell you where those are..? I found some cheap led strip meant for car headlights that has the leds shining sideways. I stuck that around the portal of one panel with nice resultby Jelle - Fisher
Ian, I have noticed that the bed is (predictably) slightly concave, so a 10 point 6 factor calibration always has some remaining error. But that does not explain the backlash-like artefact, does it? I have printed a second set at 50% speed, but I see no difference in the amount of play. Just from trying to move the nozzle or the effector I can feel no play, but I'll run by it again. It might beby Jelle - Fisher
Yes the sides are not as smooth, but the artefact I was referring to the side that should be smooth are seemingly disturbed by holes or other features in the model. These appear to echo on the path the hotend takes, or the previous path of the effector seems to influence the current position. With cartesian bots I'd look for ringing or backlash, but with delta's I don't have the experience what tby Jelle - Fisher
A geared extruder would be most welcome! The parts count would not go up very much I think, instead of a hobbed gear on the motor shaft, you get a hobbed/knurled bolt that needs to be custom made.by Jelle - Fisher
Is there a way to simplify the web interface? If not, read this as a feature request. I'm offering a couple of fishers as intro to 3D printing for 10-15y.o. students, but the complexity of the web interface frightens me a little: will they 'get it' if it offers that much information? I'm a big proponent of 'fire and forget printing', so I'd really like an interface that shows what it is printinby Jelle - Fisher
Hi there, can anybody point me in the right direction to solve this artefact? It looks like I have a lot of backlash, but when I grab the (cold!) nozzle it feels quite tight, I've seen much les ringing on UM's with a very wobbly hotend. I may also have a little overextrusion, the tops look overfilled on some points, could that cause the other artefact too?by Jelle - Fisher
I get the impression there was a part there that got removed before the beta release, I hope they have fixed this before 1.0? Just a press-fit to jam in a piece of teflon tube would be a great help. Though your part helps with threading the third hole, no you still have to thread the filament through 2 openings: one in the acrylic and on in the drive block. It should be one IMHO.by Jelle - Fisher
Usually a Z-lift on retraction leaves a little upright stump of plastic at the exit point. Next layer the nozzle can run into it, leading to visible knock-on effects if the retract happened on the perimeter. If you need the lift then there are some other things misaligned/configured.by Jelle - Fisher
Tapping to M3 is not a problem if you use a proper tap.by Jelle - Fisher
Quotepsneddon Jelle - By saying "you can_not_not_get a 'bulb'" do you mean that you CAN get a bulb? yes you always get one, it is the seal that gives you the pressure that makes the plastic come out of the nozzle. What I cannot explain is the double bulb though, perhaps it was an artefact from pulling it out?by Jelle - Fisher
When printing with filament you can not _not_ get a 'bulb'. The widening is the result of the continuous sealing process. It is a problem though if this bump/seal is larger than the ID of the tube that feeds the hotend.by Jelle - Fisher
Quotebgkdavis Maybe you just have an excessively rough tube, and need to get it replaced. [...]/quote] That probably was the case. I dismantled the hotend and tried to look at the inside of the tube. Not very easy, but I could see the grooves I could feel with a metal wire. So I took a 2mm drill and put some Cif on the shaft end. With that in a hand drill I polished the inside of the nozzle tubeby Jelle - Fisher
Hi there, What is the correct way to store the actual dimensions/parameters that a G32 probes? I am seeing quite high deviations (>2mm), repeated running will bring that down to <0.02. It would be very good if some of those values could be pre loaded so that it only needs to run once. My general approach is that the slicer profile/gcode should contain all the knowledge, so 'run command Xby Jelle - Fisher
The main issue I have is that the filament seems to get glued to the sides of the nozzle tube, probably because it's sides are too rough. I did see melt moving up into the PFTE when moving the filament by hand. Making sure the filament path is flush and smooth is a no-brainer for me, but apparently others think differently about that? What kind of solution do you propose for the surface roughnessby Jelle - Fisher
gearing would be nice, as it greatly improves the resolution (Ultimaker had to resort to a 400 step/rev motor for their 3mm filament). It will also reduce backtravel a lot when the extrusion force becomes too much for the motor.by Jelle - Fisher
Is the brass piece on the drive side a new part for the fisher or is it used too on other rrp designs? A solution might be to add a thread on the outside, so you have a separate piece that you screw onto the PTFE tube and has a lip to keep the 2mm drill centered. This threaded piece again screws into the heatsink body, providing a good seal with the top of the nozzle tube. The chamfer that is onby Jelle - Fisher
You are right that the inner surfaces of the hotend + bowden should be smooth and aligned, manually drilling the PFTE tube will not guarantee a concentric hole or a flush connection to the hotend tube. If those surfaces are not flush then filament will get stuck when changing filaments, or it may cause a blockage if molten plastic makes its way up that high. I think it would have been better if Rby Jelle - Fisher
Ah, no I did not see that, obviously. I noticed some priorities for macro's, but did not dig in deep enough to find the push and pop. Is there any more special things about macro's?by Jelle - Fisher
Do you have dxf's of the lasercut acrylic parts? If you want I can cut a set for you, that might look better than what you have now...by Jelle - Fisher
That is correct, I assumed that you need to get in M82 mode again after a pause. If that is not the case, how does it work?by Jelle - Fisher
Quotedc42 I don't think you can have read my post thoroughly. The problem with the subtraction is not the miniscule amount of time it takes, it is the rounding error it introduces, which gets worse as extrusion progresses. That is a thoroughly blunt statement to make. Here is the quote that led me to believe you made that subtraction argument: Quotedc42 So as extrusion progresses, the firmware hby Jelle - Fisher
As I said, that does not work. M83 does as expected, but M82 then resets the E value to zero. M120 + M83 followed by a M121 at the end of the file does work.by Jelle - Fisher
Isn't that an implementation detail? Concerns that a simple subtraction may be too time consuming may be valid on a 8bit micro controller, on a 32bit MCU that should be of little importance. The Gcode E value is stored in a fixed length variable, so each calculation with it will take a fixed amount of ticks. I do agree that a low value is easier to read, but you cannot do anything with that numbby Jelle - Fisher
TL/DR: the inside of my hotend tube is not smooth, I think filament gets stuck to the cold zone of it. Just tore down my hotend and felt how smooth the inside of the 2mm bore is: it's rather rough and I think that is a problem. Variation in the roughness of different hotend tubes would explain why my machine constantly gets stuck and others seem to suffer no problem. So what I think that happensby Jelle - Fisher
By my standards all coordinates in gcode should be absolute, that is including the coordinates for E. Unfortunately the writers of the reprap firmware seem to think differently and adapting the machine so it behaves correctly in both modes is kinda hard. The standard mantra seems to be: just issue a G91 in pause.g and resume.g. That does not work, G91/G90 only works on the XYZ coordinates and M8by Jelle - Fisher
Just did two tests of , one with no retraction, one with 2mm retraction at 40mm/sec. Unfortunately, both succeeded... I'll try with the 'normal' 4.5mm retraction next, it might be that 2mm is not enough to ease the pressure and actually retract filament from the hotend.by Jelle - Fisher