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http://reprap.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter
Re: NEED A GUIDE TO BUILD A MENDELMAXXX 1.5 - 10 years ago
The printer in the photo has been delivered already and that is the only shot I took at the electronics. I will deliver another build on Friday, I will take more shots at that time. Is there a specific connection you need help with? The board is pretty much self-explanatory about where you must plug-in your motors, thermistors, endstops, fans and so on.by MPower - General
Re: NEED A GUIDE TO BUILD A MENDELMAXXX 1.5 - 10 years ago
You should probably contact Bart at Reprapworld for full instructions. In the meantime, here is an example photo of a MendelMax I delivered today:by MPower - General
Re: Filament closest to caucasian skin color - 10 years ago
The simplest way would be to print in natural/transparent-ish PLA and just paint to any color you wish.by MPower - General
Re: 2 Extruders, 1 Hotend - 10 years ago
There already are quite a few electronics that support 3 extruders, the last RepRap magazine issue reviewed one or two of them.by MPower - General
Re: Matterhackers bed probing mod.....anyone try it? - 10 years ago
Replace the MDF parts?by MPower - General
Re: After Some layers, it looks like the calibration is lost.. - 11 years ago
If the layers are shifted only, maybe your x/y/or both motors are skipping during the prints. If they are squashed, maybe your z is skipping or it has some serious wooble.by MPower - General
Re: Solid Top issue - 11 years ago
Simply put: slic3r considered there was not enough room to also throw in some infill there. You will have to lower your extrusion thickness to make slic3r infill that area too.by MPower - Slic3r
Re: Fastening heatsinks to the pololus - 11 years ago
Either thermal tape (double sided tape that will transfer the heat) or thermal glue (plaster glue that will transfer the heat).by MPower - General
Re: Extruder Motor Stutter - 11 years ago
Well.. remove the filament and see if the gear is turning correctly with no filament engaged. That will rule out if the filament is preventing the gear to turn. If it still doesn't turn, you have a wire connection or driver issue, the erratic "half-way movement" looks like one coil of the stepper motor is powered only. By the way, did this happen after you tweaked something or out of the blue?by MPower - General
Re: Extruder Motor Stutter - 11 years ago
Motor is skipping. Reasons can range from faulty driver, stuck/jammed filament, faulty wiring/connections, not enough current, invalid speed/accel settings, etc. If you didn't touch anything, verify that the filament is ok in the gear teeth area.by MPower - General
Re: Prnting from SD card , prints for 30 minutes then - 11 years ago
Set your board to be powered from 12V (or whatever external power supply you are using for motors+heaters) instead of USB and you will be able to unplug the USB during SD-Card prints. This way you can rule out the fishy USB connection issue.by MPower - Repetier
Layer 62/61 - 11 years ago
The object was printed correctly though, as it seems.by MPower - Repetier
Re: 3DR released - 11 years ago
I didn't say they are impossible to find, just not as common. According to my builds, I and probably other people stock on LM8/LM10 mostly. pokey9000 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > MPower Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Not many LM6UU around though. > > > Wha > ? > > Huh?by MPower - General
Re: RepRap Magazine Issue 2 - 11 years ago
Just curious about a remark I noticed in this last issue: how does printing from sd-card improve your printing quality? (that besides the Megatronics support DRV and 1/32 erata)by MPower - RepRap magazine
Re: LulzBot TK0 - 11 years ago
rsilvers Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You can get two more for cheap. > > www.ebay.com/itm/170944517417?redirect=mobile I am not sure if they switched to Igus bushings in the public STLs also, so you might wanna check before ordering the LM10UU. Even so, the STLs for LM10UU had the hole slichtly larger then the regular LM10UU: R9.7mm vs R9.5mm, nevby MPower - General
Re: SD-card Job Finished and Bed Temperature - 11 years ago
Nothing wrong, I just expected the firmware to already have this "turn off heated bed" function implemented, just like it turns your hotend off. It doesn't make much sense to turn off the hotend only but leave the heated bed on until the operator returns to the printer, whenever that is. Hence, I expected the firmware to handle it.by MPower - Firmware - mainstream and related support
SD-card Job Finished and Bed Temperature - 11 years ago
Is there a Marlin configuration setting for turning off the heated bed after finishing a SD-card job? The code seems to have a temperature shutdown, but autotempShutdown() seems to take care of the hotend only, not the bed included. void autotempShutdown(){ #ifdef AUTOTEMP if(autotemp_enabled) { autotemp_enabled=false; if(degTargetHotend(active_extruder)>autotemp_min) setTargetHoteby MPower - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: LulzBot TK0 - 11 years ago
Yes, that would be a 100 pcs. bag according to the price, though my quotes are in euros. rsilvers Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Do I need stoppers for the nuts? No. Assembly works just like a MendelMax for example, any t-nut that fits the profile and a screw to lock the printed part against it.by MPower - General
Re: LulzBot TK0 - 11 years ago
Yes, I only had a few of those drop-in type of nuts. They are nice but ridiculously expensive. I only use them for post-construction attachments like LCD/keypad/spool holder/etc.by MPower - General
Re: LulzBot TK0 - 11 years ago
HFSB5-2020-500 for the extrusion. I used my own nuts so I didn't have to order. A quick search in their online catalog will bring them up. LE: of course your printer will print as well with non-black anodized extrusions, it's up to you if you want to pay the extra amount.by MPower - General
Re: Some heaters - 11 years ago
Latest version has some communication problems and the connection is dropped at random moments. Hence, you can nolonger close the repetier-host since it cannot acknowledge the heater shutdown (since there is no working connection anymore). But if nobody else is bothered by it, I guess it makes sense to leave it as a security feature.by MPower - Repetier
Some heaters - 11 years ago
Is there any chance you could get the "some heaters are still on" warning message as settings checkbox or even configuration file option?by MPower - Repetier
Re: voids, overhangs and lips - 11 years ago
a) when it joins 2 sections that are not directly connected, it creates a bridge. You can run a search for "reprap bridge test" on youtube to see some tests. As about overhangs, up to a certain degree, say 45 degrees, more or less depending on your printer, they can be achieved with no support material. For steeper overhangs or layers that have sections with no support at all, you can generate suby MPower - General
Re: Harta Reprap Romania - 11 years ago
Cand dai Bucuresti, iti arata din China. Bun siteby MPower - Comunitatea RUG - Romania
Re: Dual extruder with anti-ooze system - 11 years ago
Oh well.. If you've got more videos of the current tests, feel free to post them. The system looks promising, it would be great if you could make it work.by MPower - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Re: Skeinforge behavior in chess piece - 11 years ago
It should work in the loop/perimeter/infill mode also, that is how I set it and unless jitter is active, perimeters start at the same alignment.by MPower - Skeinforge
Re: Keyboard Jogging - 11 years ago
I think some customizable key-binding, like the pronterface buttons, would solve both many of the current user wishes and the eventually upcoming ones. So you would select the desired key (ctrl/alt/shift/F keys capability would be nice) and assign it a script. Then you would only have to deal with the buffer issue that lags your newly sent commands.by MPower - Repetier