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Re: Slicing issue - 11 years ago

Thanks. Could you please provide further details about the errors in that STL file? I am trying to understand what exactly was wrong with it, so I can correct the others too.

by MPower - Slic3r

Re: calibration.... - 11 years ago

Calibration should include, but is not limited to: Steps/mm via M92 Feedrate via M203 Acceleration M201 ie: M92 X123 (for X Y Z E) You can find more of these at When you first connect to the printer, you are greeted with your current setup, which includes the M code to alter that setting. All this works only if eeprom option is enabled, otherwise you will have to recompile/reupload the firmware.

by MPower - General

Re: calibration.... - 11 years ago

Probably Marlin? You could try the M92 followed by the M500 to adjust the steps/mm. ie: M92 Y123 then M500 to save and M501 to show settings, if eeprom option was enabled. Firmware shows up in the first lines when you connect with pronterface.

by MPower - General

Slicing issue - 11 years ago

What exactly is happening when you get wrong gcode from Slic3r, such as the images attached?

by MPower - Slic3r

Re: X Drift - 11 years ago

Hm.. yeah, I was kinda hasty on that. You would get a parallelogram with a slanted Z, even if the bed is leveled.

by MPower - General

Profile saving issue - 11 years ago

For some reason, some of my settings only get saved if I click the spinbox to increment/decrement that value, not manually type a number in that box. Probably some onChange event doesn't get fired. So far I've got this for the "solid infill layer every X layers" and all temperature spinboxes in the filament settings area.

by MPower - Slic3r

Re: X Drift - 11 years ago

If that is indeed the problem, it's quite simple actually: level your bed. As long as the Z has the same height against all 4 corners of your bed, it's fine.

by MPower - General

Re: X Drift - 11 years ago

A photo showing the problem might help. Parallel walls drift at the same time by the same amount? I assume it is 1mm in one direction only

by MPower - General

Re: Wooden plans - 11 years ago

Congrats on that wooden printer, it looks beautiful.

by MPower - General

Gap filler - 11 years ago

I am looking for some sort of filler that turns the printed surface into a as smooth as possible surface, glass like. Just like lacquer is for wood. The problem is that parts will be used for cake molds, so it has to be food safe once dried. Thanks

by MPower - General

Re: reprapworld hotend - 11 years ago

+1 for the original J Head from Brian.

by MPower - General

Re: Reprapworld PLA Filament - 11 years ago

stu121 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have had 2 colours from them, the black was > fine, but the green kept snapping. Have you tried > using a fan? I use mine at 180-185. but I always > use a fan with pla. Yes, I use a fan on PLA, no matter the source I bought from. I bought a little bit of various colors, though they didn't have the black one

by MPower - General

Re: Reprapworld PLA Filament - 11 years ago

I tried to work within the 200-215 degrees, but it got all gluey. Small objects turned into PLA balls. Large surfaces came out at mediocre level. Walls came out uneven, the ridges were all over the place. I tried various tweaks, besides my standard PLA settings, both repetier and skeinforge, but nothing decent came out. Unless somebody else claims to be able to properly extrude the filament from

by MPower - General

Re: Reprapworld PLA Filament - 11 years ago

lazzymonk Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What temperature are you trying to print it at? I tested it from 185 to 195, in 2 degree increments. At 197 I also fastened the idler screws all the way down and called it quits after a bit of fiddling. 3mm PLA, various colors, .5 nozzle. misan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Some P

by MPower - General

Reprapworld PLA Filament - 11 years ago

Hi there, Did anybody have any issues with reprapworld PLA filament? The hobbed bolt just keeps chewing it after the first 10cm of extrusion, then it jams. The only way to get a barely decent print was to tighten my idler screws all the way down so that the filament gets pressed really good between the bearing and and the bolt. Even so, the extrusion is not perfectly smooth. A friend of mine said

by MPower - General