Show all posts by user
http://reprap.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter
Re: need to cut down shoes hanging from power lines - 11 years ago
A RC heli with razor blades attached to the rotors sounds perfectly safe to me. >< What could possibly go wrong?by sheck626 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: First Print Issues on Prusa i3 - 11 years ago
What exactly are you trying to print? It looks like a cube, but it doesn't have a solid base, is it supposed to have infill? If it's just a hollow cube with no extra shells, then it'll have to be printed sloooooooow ("cool" settings) to allow the layers to cool before depositing the next layer on top.by sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Advice needed: Large printer, whats worth the price? and other things. - 11 years ago
That's one hell of a machine you got there. What kind of speeds does it get given that everything is lead screw driven?by sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Skirts and First Layer Speed Questions - 11 years ago
A high travel speed alone shouldn't cause parts to lift. If I had to guess, I'd say the plastic isn't bonding to the print bed properly or the nozzle is crashing into over extruded plastic. You didn't mention if you're printing with PLA or ABS and what you're printing on or your printbed temperature. If everything is setup properly, a high travel speed should have no affect on adhesion.by sheck626 - Skeinforge
Re: do i need endstops - 11 years ago
Manually homing each axis before each print would seriously suck (please don't consider it). X and Y, maybe, but Z would involve re-leveling the print bed since it's impossible to turn both lead screws the exact same amount by hand. It may be a bit of extra complexity, but what do you expect when building a machine? If you want to buy an already made 3D printer, there are several that are probby sheck626 - Reprappers
Extra shells not touching perimeter (skeinforge) - 11 years ago
An annoying issue has cropped up while printing the parts to build my I3. It seems that the extra shells that print are not touching the perimeter and there is a noticable gap. I'm using skeinforge with 1 extra shell. I've attached a picture of the most recent object I printed (an adapter for the wade extruder to the I3 x-carriage). If you'll notice, the problem is mostly on circles (especialby sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Prusa iteration-2 x-axis distance doesn't make sense - 11 years ago
I attached a picture of what I did to solve that problem. It works, but it isn't pretty. If you look at the bottom where the bar clamp attaches to the bottom threaded rod, you'll see that the outside nut is just barely on the rod. It's only threaded about half-way though and it's like that on both sides. It's worked well for the last several months like that so I guess it's okay. I was origiby sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Strength between layers - 11 years ago
The height of each trace is determined by layer height (the Z axis is raised by that amount before each layer, including the first). The width of the trace is a bit different, it's determined by the flow rate (how much plastic is being pushed into the extruder) and the feed rate (how fast the nozzle is moving with respect to the printed object) and the layer height. For a given layer height, aby sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Strange problem with my pursa mendel... - 11 years ago
Pronterface is a buggy piece of software. I find it's sometimes necessary to disconnect the USB, exit pronterface, reconnect the USB, load pronterface and then connect to the printer. Might I suggest Repetier host? It's much better.by sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Strength between layers - 11 years ago
There are a lot of factors that determine the bond strength of the traces. The nozzle temperature and layer width over height ratio are the two most important though. If you're using Slic3r, it is set by default to automatically determine the object's WOH ratio based on your nozzle diameter. A WOH ratio of about 2.2 is good for strong layer bonding but may be overkill in some cases. Think ofby sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: First Test Print, Advice Needed please - 11 years ago
He/she must have a seriously huge nozzle to produce a skirt like that.by sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Difficult luminous PLA - 11 years ago
Try lowering your bed temperature to about 65C to start with (first layer) and then 60C after that. I've found that increasing the temperature past 65C actually reduces adhesion.by sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Trouble with PLA inter-layer adhesion - 11 years ago
Try printing a single layer hollow cube (no infill, 0 solid layers, 1 perimeter, uncheck generate extra perimeters when needed) and cancel the print after about 10 layers. After printing, measure the width of the walls and make sure it is pretty close to what Slic3r set for the trace width. Slic3r sets that automatically by default based on your nozzle diameter and you can find the value it's uby sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Question about pausing and resuming printing - 11 years ago
>I don't think leaving a print for several hours before resuming would work very well especially if you turn the bed off as the part will most likely detach when it cools enough. Unless you're printing ABS on Kapton tape.by sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: X and Y move, Z dosen't move, limits won't trip. - 11 years ago
If it turns out that the two motors are drawing too much current, you might fix it by wiring them in series.by sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Y Axis not moving - 11 years ago
Does the extruder work if you connect it to another axis and move that? Did you try wiggling the motor connector? It's very easy to screw things up when crimping the molex connectors to where it works sometimes but not always. I had to practice quite a bit before I could make a reliable connection. I'm glad I bought way more extra pins than I thought I would need. Also, did you buy your stepby sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Cura printing in mid air?? - 11 years ago
Either you have a Z offset set in your slicing software or the model doesn't begin at z=0. Try netfabb.by sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Ahg! How to adjust settings in firmware? - 11 years ago
You could always just add M92 E in the custom g-code section in Slic3r (eg: M92 E530 would set it to 530 steps/mm). That will set the extruder steps/mm at the beginning of every print without you having to flash the firmware. Of course you'll need to make sure that command is issued every time the controller is reset so if you're calibrating in pronterface (i.e. extruding but not actually printby sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Heatbed Not Reaching Temperature - 11 years ago
17.5C room temp is cold as hell where I'm from (Florida). No wonder we have such different results! I'd recommend insulating the bottom of the print bed. Also, I've never needed to print at 120C. I find ABS sticks to Kapton tape at 110 degrees just fine so I've never even taken my print bed to that temp before (115, is the higest I've tested it).by sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Heatbed Not Reaching Temperature - 11 years ago
>EDIT: You also keep saying degree. You talking Fahrenheit or Celsius? He'd have a really big problem if it took his heat bed 1 hour to reach 116 degrees fahrenheit. EDIT: Config looks fine for the bed power. Do you by any chance have a fan running near the bed, or is your machine near an AC vent?by sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Heated Bed out of control - trying to disable it - 11 years ago
The only reason marlin would constantly report the temp like that is if a M190 (Set bed temp and wait) or M109 (Set extruder temp and wait) command was issued. Try disconnecting the USB cable from the arduino and shutting the PSU off. Then reconnect the arduino and turn the PSU back on after 10 seconds or so. If it still does that then try re-flashing the marlin firmware. Also, it's showing yby sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Y Axis not moving - 11 years ago
Just send an M119 command to get the status of the endstops. That should allow you to rule them out.by sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Heatbed Not Reaching Temperature - 11 years ago
If you have another sacrificial PSU sitting around, then go for it. If you have to buy a second one, then forget it, buy another quality PSU and run with just that. Actually, a PSU running at a higher voltage would be even better. The only reason I can think of to use an ATX PSU is if you already have one lying around.by sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Lower temp than actual due to fan - 11 years ago
Make sure the termistor is on the opposite side to the fan so it doesn't get directly affected by the cool air coming from it.by sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Bridges and Slic3r. - 11 years ago
I did try that (down to 0.9) and it did help a little. The problem is the part that doesn't anchor properly is the part that Slic3r doesn't consider a bridge (the perimeter of the bridge) so bridge flow ratio has no effect on it. Also, when I let Slic3r choose the trace width, it goes for 0.7 (2 1/3 WOH) which I've noticed doesn't give very good quality prints (more delamination). Although comby sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Bridges and Slic3r. - 11 years ago
My first skeinforge print turned out pretty well! The top layer bridged properly and the object is deafeningly functional. I've actually never successfully printed this with Slic3r. The attached object is straight from the print bed, no cleanup needed. There is room for improvement though, but over time I think I can get some pretty good prints with it, maybe even bordering on awesome. It seby sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Heatbed Not Reaching Temperature - 11 years ago
No need to solder, just twist them together. Also, I have 2 yellow and 2 black wired to my 11A connector and 1 yellow and 1 black wired to my 5A connector. Doubling up the wiring on the heatbed wouldn't hurt, but since the voltage drop was measured at the power connector I don't know if it would help any. By all means, do it though since it can only help even if only a little. Just out of curby sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Heatbed Not Reaching Temperature - 11 years ago
You should try to use a different pair of wires from the PSU for each connector pair. Look at the ratings for your PSU and chances are it does not have just 1 +12v rail, it probably has several. Each +12v rail can only provide a fraction of the PSU's total output power. You might have selected a weak rail. Try using the wires on the ATX 12v connector or the PCI express power connectors. Alsoby sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Heatbed Not Reaching Temperature - 11 years ago
That's an improvement, but that voltage drop is still to high. I have the same heatbed and can get it to 110 degrees in about 6 minutes or so with no insulation under it. Are you measuring the voltage at the power supply connector or at the heatbed? Do you have a different pair of wires connected to the 11A and 5A connectors on the RAMPS? What kind of wire are you using to supply power to theby sheck626 - Reprappers
Re: Problem with Endstops - 11 years ago
Make sure Y_HOME_DIR = -1. It should home the Y axis in the direction of the Y motor and the endstop switch should be on that side.by sheck626 - Reprappers