Regarding point 1, can anyone explain why the E coordinate should be relative while all the others are absolute? The answer ('if that is too difficult') is misguided passive aggression and helps no-one. On top of that it does not work: G91 only affect the XYZ coordinates, not E. (try it for yourself). M82 and M83 set the extruder to absolute or relative. Unfortunately, M82 seems to reset E to zerby Jelle - Fisher
Most likely your motor is not faulty, but if you have multimeter you can test it yourself there should be two pairs of wire that have ~8 Ohm resistance. On thing that happed to me today though is that the cable for the hotend/effector unstuck the connector on the E stepper. If it is only connected with one pair, then it will move erraticaly, so that may have happened to you too?by Jelle - Fisher
In my case the nozzle does not appear to be blocked after getting the filament out. So it might be stuck to the walls of the heatsink. I've read complaints of all-metal hotends getting stuck on PLA, specifically related to retraction. What would be a good test to find out if it is related to retraction? Perhaps print a model with lots of retraction, and slice it with different settings for retraby Jelle - Fisher
No, not sure, I cannot look into the hotend when it is running. But I am 100% sure the stepper is loaded too much: it is visibly moving back a quarter turn each time it slips.by Jelle - Fisher
I too can't seem to print large objects. I am unconvinced it has anything to do with retracting setings or how hard your idler wheel pushes against the filament. It is a reproducable event that happens after ~30-60 minutes of printing. In the old days with another printer, this was caused by a gap between the bowden cable and the hotend parts. PLA would creep up into that gap, solidify and jam thby Jelle - Fisher
ignore lasercn spam, but do buy a CO2 laser engraver. Diode lasers have too little output to get any speed out of. Reasonable machines can be had for about 2500-3000 USD with a bed around 30x50 cm. Smaller bedsize is cheaper, but also less quality. The software with these machines (usually lasercut5.3) is horrible, but you can survive it for only 500 pieces. It will not be quick though! expect aby Jelle - Laser Cutter Working Group
lasercn is obviously advertising for that platform. The word you were looking for is probably tumbling: you add abrasive media together with your workpieces in a big barrel and either let it tumble or shake it violently for a long time. The media will sand off/dull your sharp edges. You might also look at waterjet cutting. With abrasive you can cut through that thickness easily, but the exit siby Jelle - Laser Cutter Working Group
Quite late to the party, but get some experience first before you buy one. 2x3 feet is rather large, that will take a long time to engrave. That is where resolution comes into play: a larger resolution means more horizontal scan lines: all distance the laser head has to travel. a 60x90cm image will easily take 1-4 hours to engrave! A 60x90 lasercutter from aliexpress will set you back about 5k buby Jelle - Laser Cutter Working Group
If your machine is light and small, the acceleration can be high so you don't need evenly distributed power output. There may be a lot to improve with k40 machines before you will notice it. With thicker material(pmma) you might notice a wave-like pattern in the cut: the cut at the bottom is actually lagging behind the top. This is where you need a lower acceleration and a coordinated power outpuby Jelle - Laser Cutter Working Group
I like the idea of adjusting for the length of the rods with a simple screw. If you order stuff like this you usually get a tolerance of 1mm, having it milled/lathed to length adds a lot of cost. The idled holder could have a little more Z to it to hold a captive nut with an adjustment screw in it. The problem of that is that you introduce another point where careless tightening might break theby Jelle - Fisher
The carriages have to move in a plane, you define a plane with 3 points, 3 bearings or one short + one long bearing define that. So yes, in a way it is because of stability.by Jelle - Fisher
Using a vector program like inkscape is the way forward I think. I have used quite a few CNC machines professionally (CNC router, 3D printer, lasercutter) and by far the easiest to use is the lasercutter that can behave like a windows printer: press print (or ctrl-P), update some settings and send it off to the machine. With one of the gcode producing plugins it should be not that hard to emulateby Jelle - Laser Cutter Working Group
I've only had that happen to me after opening a motor to look inside. It is probably quicker to open and clean than to wait for shipment. A bit of tape stuck on and removed from the rotor will remove most magnetic debris that is in there, the non-magnetic stuff will just fall out after opening. I can be a bit fiddly to reassemble the motor properly, but you can allow yourself a few tries. A smootby Jelle - Fisher
Stepper motors generate a voltage/current when driven externally, so when you move them fast enough, that voltage will (partly)revive the stepper drivers, which may put them in a conducting state where moving the motor requires much more force. You will feel a much larger cogging, but it should not be impossible to move all together. If the carriage is refusing to move at all I think you have aby Jelle - Fisher
QuoteI have my doubts about how the endstop switches are mounted on the Fisher. Most delta printers mount the switches horizontally and upside down, so that the carriages run into them. I find this gives highly reproducible results. On the Fischer, the sideways mounting arrangement looks to me that it needs a larger amount of carriage travel to cause the same amount of switch depression, which Iby Jelle - Fisher
Yes I agree with the fan noise being a nuisance. I was toying with the idea to use a larger fan but move it up next to the extruder drive and pipe the air down with some sort of sping&foil tube thingy (miniature version of air duct/tubing to connect cooker hoods etc). An extra advantage is that you could put all unsightly wires (and the bowden tube?) in there. But that is all in the 'sometimby Jelle - Fisher
Thanks theolodian, that really answers my question (not). Anyway, there are a number of factors that limit printing speed, on the fisher that seem to be the feeder and the cooling system. If you have a machine that is mechanically capable to move very fast (e.g. a delta), then IMHO is a pity to hobble it with a suboptimal cooling system. I'm pretty sure that the fan by itself is capable of veryby Jelle - Fisher
Can it be that the fanduct/nozzles are too small? The exit openings are around 2x13x2mm = 52mm^2, the outflow opening of the radial fan itself is 16x12= 192mm^2. That is a reduction of 75%. My fan is not attached very tight, so often the is a gap between the fan and the first duct part. The frequency/rpm's of the fan goes up if I push the fan back into its duct, indicating to me that in this conby Jelle - Fisher
Hi Ian, Sorry if my support questions are in the wrong place here, this seemed like the most efficient place to post them. I don't mind it's still in beta, I like to contribute! As for more nitty-gritty: how does the printer anounce its name locally, does it use netbios or does it rely on the router to include dhcp hostnames in the dns? If the IP in config.g is (per default) 0.0.0.0, does thatby Jelle - Fisher
The fisher is connected directly to my laptop. I cannot plug it into the router as it's all wireless. Adding a esp8266 is a bit too much for me, I just want it to work as intended. But how is it intended to work. The instructions only talk about what to do, not why.by Jelle - Fisher
The ethernet connection is giving me some trouble: as-is I get no connection if I try to connect with my Ubuntu laptop. ifconfig only shows a ipv6 address, there is no name resolution for 'reprapprofisher'. How is that supposed to work anyhow. (btw I love how the doodle3D guys solved this: a server on their side registers 'I'm online' messages from the box, clients query the local ip for machinesby Jelle - Fisher
filament swelling? It is intended as a PLA printer right? I've never heard of PLA swelling while hot. I do agree you need to keep the heatsink part of the hotend cool though, as that is where the magic sealing takes place. Molten PLA should never come above the aluminium rim. The insert of the bowden is troubling me a bit though, it shortens the runout space for molten plastic a lot. If the conneby Jelle - Fisher
Perhaps mine are stainless too, or perhaps a nickel plating? plain steel might not be the best idea for a machine that relies on the electrical contact to stainless spacers... Anyway, I did not know and tapped a little thread in them anyway (blessed are the ignorant because they do what cannot be done?) I had more trouble with not having a bottoming tap and not wanting to grind off more of the taby Jelle - Fisher
They are not stainless! They got marred in the aluminium jaws of the vise I was using.by Jelle - Fisher
one of the balls i got was unthreaded. With a soft-jaw vice and a M3 tap I managed to get some thread in (don't have a bottoming tap). After grinding off some of the countersunk screw It does fit. Perhaps there should be more balls in the kit just to be safe?by Jelle - Fisher
Yes I noticed that picture too. At least the building instructions could be more clear. The usage of such a socket would imply a counterpart to stick it on. Is there any reason why the fan should not be controllable? If the hotend is not hot, the fan does not need to be on, so I'd think it is the firmwares responsability to make sure that the fan is on when it has to. As this machine is intendedby Jelle - Fisher
A small issue I had while building is that the M2.5 screw are a little too small for the enstops. One side grips easily, the other is loose. Since there are no M2.5 nuts (hurray for avoiding awkward confusion!), I suppose this is not as intended? I would suggest finding some 3mm self-tapping screws (parker?) and using these or to tap the holes to M3 and use a M3x10 pan head. That brings me to aby Jelle - Fisher
Hi there, Just about to finish my new fisher, and it struck me that there seem to be the wrong fan connector on the duet or hotend cable assemby. The cable has a three pin socket with only two populated (oxo) but the connector on the board has two pins side by side (oo). I've fixed it for now by moving the yellow wire to he middle slot, but I still have to check if the polarity is right. If I hby Jelle - Fisher