Hi All I have corexy and upgraded to SKR mini v2. I have a issue where Z homes wrong way using Probe and i cant change home dir to 1. If i change #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 to #define Z_HOME_DIR 1 i get error #error "Z_HOME_DIR must be -1 when homing Z with the probe." Can any one help me here to over come this issue please. i have changed #define USE_ZMAX_PLUG no difference . Motor direction noby rastaman46 - Firmware - Marlin
Nice keep it up I got finally in to PCB with my laser that firs one I managed to do Would 2W laser penetrate FR1 Board??? Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Quoteerniehatt Thanks for yoir help Mate, forgot the link. That's the one But before you connect Diode to this board make sure your voltage & Amperes is set to suite Diode Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
yes All you need is connect PWM to TTLby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
All you need is PWM signal to TTL Driver board Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Quoteerniehatt I thank you for the info concerning the lasers. So I make an error in my choice of diode, even as we age we do tend to make them, I suspect you have made your share. The safety bit I will ignore, I have been around a long time I have learnt a few things, having built Electronic Gap flashes with capacitors that hold 45k voltage, in fact 3 of them, I am still around., Yes I do ownby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
So can you clarify me if i heading right direction please? So constant current parts is to create constant current for laser diode (No more no less always same) TTL parts turns circuit on and off right? (Turns voltage on & off Keeps current on??) So like u say using E-step pin to generate pulses according to speed. The way i understand this is that E steps generate pulses say E20 is this iby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
You can get PWM driver and remove internal driver to be able to drive with new one Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
It has constant current driver built in ON/OFF only Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
To control power you need PWM compatible laser driver. Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
I got pair a these on my 445NM laser works fine Glasses claims protection from 190nm to 540nm See attached for laser wavelengths Any one correct me if im wrong!!! Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
QuoteVDX ... where are you located? Lasertack in Germany has some laserdiode-drivers with "real" analog modulation - This sort of optimized PWM can only be done with software - the driver can then be a simple constant current driver (e.g. a LM317 or LM338 in "constant-current configuration") with "Pulse-modulating" the current through the driver with a MOSFET ... I'm doing this regularly Thaby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
QuoteVDX ... this sort of infos is scatteread around various sources - blogs, user-forums (like this one), random finds ... My personal know-how about lasers and related applications is mostly DIY and collected over more than 30 years occasionally tinkering and working with all then available types of lasers and around all sorts of applications with them Thanks for reply All i see here is bby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
QuoteVDX ... most driver/laserdiode-combinations don't give linear power output, so you'll have to calibrate the output for your setup to get some precision. Another issue is the moving speed while lasering - when engraving with accelerated moves, then the line-ends tend to get more burnt than faster moves in the middle - so you have to move really slow, so your driver won't accelerate/decceleraby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hi its me again can any one clarify me on this please so 255 is max power or intensity? say if i set it to 127 would i get half ? or i need to keep it always on 255 as ON? coz laser comes on on 1 and starts burn on 10 i did engraving image and it looks like it went to deep in??? Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
In my experience I would home Z manually then adjust height as needed (Variable material thickness) do that before you run the job Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hi all again just passing by After load of hours designing extraction system got somewhere I used PS3 Fan with 3d printed prop works extremely well no smoke just bit of smell (And i got it PWM controlled with arduino) Here result below Thanks again everyone for your time and effort to help me!!!by rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks for your input ill do that then!!!! Now designing Fume extractor first before I attempt to run it again Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
its just first test and all i had on hand to keep the bed that high (z axis is belt driven) So currently upgrading Z axis with lead screw and Z probe to keep distance same. What distance you prefer ? Software is Image 3dpBurner Image2Gcode Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hi all again finally got my self back on track thanks all for your time to help me.!!! Here i got some action going here Thanks again all!!!by rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
remove focus head and you will see brass inset with 2 holes. take a peace of wood then drill 3mm holes 2 off in 12mm centres use small screw drivers to fit these holes works as special tool spanner. then just screw brass part out slowly and gently (While doing this it will rip wires of the diode ) Done then just clean heat sink part Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
If you remove brass part first it will rip wires easy without any damage to diode Then remove all that gunk with CC module without any care Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
What I fount is this is really good starting point on how to sett all up and get running Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Is this good idea? Quote Pull down resistor is used for prevent the momentaneous laser powering on when Arduino resets and put the driver input control at high impedance state. Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
In my experience with this situation I can tell you Remove that internal CC module (Take care on diode don't damage it) Get cheap Chinese TTL module and u be able to run it from rams just fine. Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
This is Actual diode its 9mm and it looks like its Picture attached Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
QuoteLarsK Basically it can be the M140 or Nichia NDB7875 or the Osram PLTB450B . It is pretty easy to identify which one if you can get to look at it physically, just google the names and you can find pictures of how the diode looks. If you can't get to look at the actual diode then I don't know - But they all more or less run the same current (A) so just run it at 1.6 A and you will be OK.by rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks every one for this help I think i damaged ttl input on driver (12v my bad) So i got new module ordered and new ttl chip (RSS100 N03) hope ill get it fixed if not new module on its way.. And as suggested got 0.1Ohm 5w resistor ordered to adjust current So this time i want to approach this again freshly. I had nice experience with this so far learned alot about it as well. Thanks eveby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks for reply This is extremely helpful now much clearer. But still got few questions How do I identify diode ? how can I tell is it 1W or 2W? Say if im not sure about Diode wattage yet if I set it to 1A to be safe ? And voltage where do I start ? 3.3V? to max 5V? Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks for reply Driver in red box was purchased separate to run TTL Seller refer me to this to run TTL (Looks like he have no idea what he selling) Laser was 12DC with cc-driver built in (He description on laser isn't clear at all) And he told me I need driver to run TTL refer me to this Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group